Replies

1. 
   ronbudgell | Mar 06, 2006 03:08pm | #1

   Barry,

   If you're thinking about tile, Schluter will probably have a product that will serve the purpose. Talk to a local tilesetter.

   http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectionf/overview-f/section-f.html

   Tile over torch-on? No way.

   Vinyl surface might be a possibility too. Here's one. There are others.

   http://www.duradek.com/Duradek.asp

   Ron

    

1. 
   user-119769 | Mar 07, 2006 01:51am | #2

   I was trying to find a longer term solution that is also a little more upscale than vinyl. I used acid stain concrete on another deck and it looks great. I may end up using torch-on , because I know it will be 100% waterproof, and then concrete finished with acid stain. I just don't want to add to much more depth. If the concrete cracked,  it would just leak down to the torch-on. It would be nice to find some kind of coating less $$ than torch-on. Deck is about 600 square feet, then concrete, then acid stain &/or tile. Kind of adds up.

   Barry

1. 
   scottbr | Mar 08, 2006 01:11am | #6

    

   I was trying to find a longer term solution that is also a little more upscale than vinyl.

   IMHO the Duradeck is more upscale than the torch on and will be as 100% waterproof as the torch-on.

   Are you confusing the Duradeck PVC with regular indoor floor vinyl, there is a huge difference.

   PVC is used as a commercial flat roofing product, we have installed 100's of squares. (also installed 1000's of squares of torch-on )

   The Duradeck (and other manufacturers ) is made specifcally for an exterior deck surface such as your application and eliminates the need and cost of another deck surface over the waterproofing membrane.

1. 
   user-119769 | Mar 08, 2006 01:27am | #7

   Hi Scott

   Yes I understand what the Duradeck product is but I don't think it would tie in as well architecturally because all the other surfaces are concrete acid stained and tile.

   I am leaning towards the Schluter system even though I am sure it will be more work and money than Duradeck.

    

   Semar

   What type of tile did you use? Just a frost proof porcelain?

   Thanks to all

   Barry

2. 
   stinger | Mar 07, 2006 02:38am | #3

   Sonneborne makes 2-part moisture cure urethane coatings that are used on parking decks to make them waterproof.

   They go on as a primer/topcoat system, each coat going on quite heavy, something like 40 mils wet thickness, and cure to form an elastomeric surface that remains intact if the concrete moves and cracks.

   We used it in a garage with heated space below.  Done on a concrete deck, the top color coat was done with granulated rubber particles backrolled into the wet application.  That gives the surface some traction, otherwise we would have a shiny surface and possible slippery.

3. 
   malcbuddy | Mar 07, 2006 03:09am | #4

   It ain't cheap, but try American High Tech Flooring in Newport News, VA.

   They make a trowel down two part epoxy using marble dust as an agregate.  They use this stuff for retrofitting Naval ship decks, and I have used in commercial kitchens and public baths.

   If you want a less expensive concrete coating, like the stuff you see on the big box store floors, try Butterfield Color, Clear Guard, tintable acrylic.  1-800-282-3388.  (ask about yellowing under UV, you might want to tint it so the yellowing is not as apparent.

   On the underside metal, I reccomend a primer for galvanized metal, and top coat with Hammerite paint.  (I think Kilz makes it)  I use this on parking lot lighting and steel doors in industrial applications with tremendous success.

    

    

    

4. 
   semar | Mar 07, 2006 03:11am | #5

   we waterproofed a deck over habitable area with the Schluter system and tile. It is also on the NW coast but not on a waterfront property. Its been up now for over 10 years with no problem