Replies

1. 
   KatyCustom | May 25, 2012 12:24am | #1

   Did you use shower pan liner underneath the pan with a drain body that was made to accept a liner? If so you should be fine as long as it was done right.

   If not.....

   Pick up a gallon of Red Guard at Home Depot for about 50 bucks and roll on 2 coats. You'll be waterproof and ready for tile in a couple hours.

   I would of liked to seen it built in the same way you build a shower pan, but this would probably work. I would probably use a white silicone (make sure you get an anti-mold kitchen/bath variety) to caulk the baseboards in as well.

   If you didn't use a liner and still want to do it right you could change the drain body to a proper one, then put down a layer of asphalt paper followed by a showe pan liner and another layer of mud.

   Hope this helps, but in short I would want some sort of waterproofing in a room with that much plumbing, even with a drain.

2. 
   Scott | May 25, 2012 01:16am | #2

   I'm wondering if the shaking mechanical action of the washer will eventually crack the mortar bed and/or tile.

   Have you considered the inexpensive aluminum pans that are available? (Not as pretty as tile, but quite effective.)

3. 
   DanH | May 25, 2012 07:29am | #3

   Of course, the thing doesn't need to be as waterproof as a shower, just enough to prevent a leak from turning into a disaster.  However much you do is goodness -- no absolute standard.

   You could, of course, consider putting plastic drain pans under the washer and water heater, vs waterproofing the entire floor.

4. 
   aaron_agosto | May 25, 2012 07:37am | #4

   Yeah, I put in the 3 piece drain and the first layer of mud. I had panned on doing a liner, and would still like to. My girlfriend is just wildly opposed to it because she thinks it's overkill. 

   As far as cracking goes, I sistered all the joists and there doesn't seem to be much deflection. I'm using 1x1 tile over a Portland cement. The pan would for the washer, but I also have the water heater and manifold in the room as well

1. 
   aaron_agosto | May 25, 2012 07:40am | #5

   Also, my plumber reccomended using a 3x3 piece of membrane just around the drain

5. 
   davidmeiland | May 27, 2012 12:53am | #6

   You're planning on having

   a sloped floor in the laundry room, like a shower pan?

   That would drive me nuts. No wonder your girlfriend isn't into it.

   If this is only going to get wet in a pipe break or tank failure, I would stop now, make the floor level, and use a couple of metal pans for the areas that might get leaks or drips. Run a 3/4" line from the pans down to daylight somewhere.

6. 
   IdahoDon | May 27, 2012 04:35pm | #7

   I had a great long response to your question and this effed up website ate it - I should know better than trust it would actually post something correctly and saved it, but I didn't.

   In short, yes by all means use a liquid membrane - it will also help your tile and grout last longer since it's also an isolation membrame and if you're going to do it do it right.

   Rather than redguard I'd use laticrete Hydro ban - it's tougher, and can bond directly to plumbing whereas other products need a channel for caulking to join the two.  Red guard is popular since it's cheap and available at box stores, not because it's the best product.

   Good building!

1. 
   aaron_agosto | May 28, 2012 12:10pm | #8

   Thanks. We decided on the liquid membrane Ive seen it used tons of times, for some reason it just skipped my mind.