We are going to be remodeling our master bath. We have a shower stall that I’m in the process of tearing out, all the old tile and drywall etc. it was starting to leak. The pan is intact and was built properly.
I plan on using something like Durrock or Hardibacker as a substrate (which would you recommend?) but I want to know what I should use as a barrier to prevent moisture penetration.
I’ve been told to use 30# roof felt behind the tile backer, or to use both a heavy mil plastic then the roof felt over that–but I want to be sure I do it right the first time and having used this material in other construction projects I can see where this might be ok–but I definitely do not want any leakage.
Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated as I have just started learning how to do tile and slate flooring work–been in the construction business on the carpentry end for a lot of years and have not really paid that much attention to the tilesetters work–they are usually in and out so fast you never really get to see their process–especially since I’m doing trim bid work at the same time.
Gary Akin
Replies
Wrap felt paper horizontally around shower starting at the bottom. Overlap next course 2-3". Seal seams and any other potential leak areas with roofing cement. Apply backer board (Durock is fine). It is well worth the time to make certain the walls are square before you begin so that you end up with nice even cut lines at the corners. Hope this helps.
Assuming you have a decent pan, here are the steps:
1. Plumb your studs, if required, with drywall shims, lattice, or even a sistered stud right next to your other studs.
2 Shim out studs with 1/4" lattice, so CBU goes over the pan area and does not buldge out, per TCA guidelines.
3. Cover entire area with 6 mil poly, stapled to studs. Overlap seams by 2". Use a good quality butyl caulk to seal seams. Bring the poly all the way down up to and 2" over the pan membrane area.
4. Nail or screw (I use nails) the CBU's to the studs. 1/8" or so gap between them. Follow manufacturers instructions to the "T". If they say 1/16", do what they say, not what I say. Fill the bottom course of CBU's over the pan area with a thinset using a 1/4" trowel to take up the difference between the pan and the CBU. Hold the CBU over the pan about a 1/4" or so to prevent wicking and fill the gap with a good butyl caulk.
6. I apply a waterproof roll on membrane to shower walls, like Mer-Crete, Laticrete 9235 etc. Apply reinforcing fabric to seams and corners only. About 3 coats should do it. Take this trowel on waterproofing all the way to the bottom edge of the CBU
7. Float the floor setting bed with the appropriate slope which is 1/4" per foot. Cover the weep holes with tile spacers and add poultry wire to the lower third of the setting bed. Smooth as required with a metal float. Use a piece of tile to guage the thickness of the float at the shower drain.
Please get a copy of the Tile Council of America's Handbook for specs and details. No decent tile job should be done, without a look see at that rascal.
There is also a great board at http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?forumid=1
and another BBS at http://www.jlconline.com/cgi-bin/jlconline.storefront/EN/catalog/1136
I like John Bridge's Site the best. They guys there are great!!!!
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927
Guys,
Thank you for the information, and Boris thanks for the site reference and the info re: Tile Council--will be picking one up soon.
Gary
Boris,
It's astounding to me that you could not only lead your country out from under the colllapse of Communism, but are able to deliver expert tile setting advice here at Breaktime.That's AMAZING.People here in America kind of dismissed you because of the alcohol thing, but, no s--- , you are the MAN.I'll bet George Bush couldn't tell the difference between a CBU and an ICBM.Way to go!
Barry