Took out my Target wet saw and noticed my 10″ blade is bent,,,grrrr. Its pretty old anyway but now I need a new one TOMORROW!(Thursday)..but I reckon I can wait. I’ll do all my full tiles and do my cuts when a new blade comes in the mail. Delivary on these sites seem pretty fast but which to get?
O-boy…here we go again. 100 flavors to choose from….well, not that bad but you know what i mean.
I see on MK’s site they say the 315 is good for ceramic but not porcelain and the 415 is the opposite and the 415 is about $10 more than the 315..http://www.mkdiamonddirect.net/tileblades.html <–comparison chart.
Then in the Burns site…The cyclone has one that claims to do pretty much everything and is about $20 less than MK. So which is better..ugh…here we go again.
Some swear by MK and some Cyclone.
Should I be more concerned about being able to cut porcelain or ceramic if I went with MK?
I do like the “Construction Complete” site that’s in The John Bridge’s site. Pretty competitive on most things.http://www.constructioncomplete.com
Any other feedback here View Image ????
Thanks
andy
“As I was walkin’ – I saw a sign there
And that sign said – no tress passin’
But on the other side …. it didn’t say nothin!
Now that side was made for you and me!” Woody Guthrie 1956
HTTP://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Replies
How'd you bend it?
be getting ben d
is today Saturday?
no idea...probably when I was sliding it back uder a table cleaning up...It was pretty old anyway.
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I am not a full time tiler, but I would think that any blade that cuts porcelain, should be fine with ceramic as it seems a lot softer. I am still using the original that came with the MK saw, only a couple of tile jobs a year, but it has been six or seven years. Maybe buy an extra so no rush replacement next time? Be an extra blade
Dan
ToolKing seems to really have good prices so I'm going w/the 415.
Should cut beutifully and last a long time.
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
get 3 saws and install a different blade on each...
problem solved...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Ya know....at first that seemed like a ridiculous idea.
But then I realized my tile saw may be the exception to the rule.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Depending on what you're used to, some of the new blades are very thin and cut fine straight ahead in warm temperatures, but if you have a cold saw and run warm water in it to keep your fingers intact they don't work well compared to one with a thicker disk.
On a side note, and look away if you're squeemish, but I really needed to a get a cut and had a bent blade from rough transport. My rubber assembly hammer happened to be close by so I thought I'd give it a little wack and see what happened. It straightened right up!
My thoughts on the type of blade are basically to separate the blades into smooth cutting/ slow and more agressive/fast. All the various blades do is try to fill in every possible combination between those extremes. If all you do is one type of tile then it probably makes sense to get a blade matched for it. Otherwise I have a coarse blade for hidden cuts and slate, and a really smooth blade for visible edges.
When a coarse blade really helps is on those natural stone installs since cutting speed can mean the difference between 5 hours behind the saw and 4.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Thanks Idaho
I JUST orderd the MK 415. Got a good price on it ($81) and it seems like it'd cut everything pretty nicely for as often as I use it...not day in and day out like a tile guy would. I wanted something that'd do fine cuts in granite as well as marble and tumbled marble. I seem to do a lot of TM for some reason. And for some reason I seem to NOT do a whole lot of ceramic...I think myself and other people are more into natural stone these days. And for the times I do, do ceramic I'm guessing this will work fine in spite of it saying its not a ceramic blade. Says its a Supreme grade, super hi-rim blade for porcelain & vitreous tile but my guess is it'll do ceramic as well.
Tried finding the 80MM rather than the 60 but it seems just about everyone sells the 60 MM...I guess that means I'll just have to be a bit more careful with it.
andy...
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
That's a great blade and price. :-)
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
yeh I know..http://WWW.TOOLKING.COM : )
BElieve it or not I JUST saw it on Amazon for just a tad more.
Everywhere else it was closer to $100+
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
You need to match the blade to the material. No blade will cut all stone and tile optimally. The simple explanation is that bonding matrix that contains the diamonds needs to be soft for hard materials like granite and porcelain. This is because the hard tile/stone will dull the diamonds and is not abrasive enough to wear away a hard bonding matrix to expose fresh diamonds as needed.You need a hard bonding matrix for soft yet abrasive materials like ceramic tile and concrete. The material to be cut is so abrasive it will wear away the bonding matrix and expose fresh diamonds prematurely and your blade will wear away much quicker than necessary.When I cut limestone and marble I find i get a lot of chipping with a standard diamond blade. I typically use an electroplated diamond blade to improve the quality of the cut. If you try and use an electroplated blade on granite you will trash it in just a few cuts.If your blades cutting performance deteriorates, take a close look at it and see if the diamond particles seem to be less prominant in the bonding matrix. If so you can dress the blade on a concrete cinder block or similar abrasive material by making several repetitive cuts. Frequently it is more effective to dress the blade dry if you can tolerate the resulting dust. Cutting with a "dull" blade just reduces quality of cut, makes your saw motor work harder than it is designed to and generally frustrated the operator.Generally a quality saw blade that is cutting poorly can be "tuned up" or "sharpened" very effectively by dressing it on abrasive material. Supposedly waiting too long to dress it can render the blade unrecoverable but I have had good luck dressing heavily dulled diamond blades by running it against a silicon carbide grindstone running in a handheld grinder. (Of course with gloves, safety glasses and dust mask).Bottom line is you have to match the diamond blade to the material being cut. If you are going to err, err on the side of a soft bonding matrix (a blade for hard materials like granite). It will give good cutting speed with the downside that it will wear out prematurely. Also if you haven't tried an electroplated blade for cutting limestone/tumbled marble, you should. If money is an issue I think even Harbor freight sells some cheap ones you can put in your angle grinder.Karl
Nice post carl..thanks.
I bought the MK 415
So why does MK sell a blade taht they claim is good to cut soft and hard stone like marble and granite etc? I've spoken to several tile guys who use this blade and they said that its been serving them well? (MK415)
Also why with this blade does MK say it cuts all of these tiles but not pocelin well...whats in pocelin that would hinder this blades cut?
____________________________________________________
MK Diamond 153495 MK-415 10" Supreme Tile Wet Cutting Super Hi-Rim Diamond Blade. Continuous super hi-rim diamond blade for wet cutting of porcelain and vitreous ceramic tile. Supreme grade for superior life and faster cutting/grinding speeds. Superlative quality, performance, and value. Manufactured to exact tolerances to ensure precise cutting, clean cut edges, and long service life.
Application
Cutting: Ceramic Tile, Hard Vitreous Tile, Slate, Limestone, Granite, Marble, Travertine
Features
-For use with 1-3 HP saws. Fits all tile saws (Felker, Target, QEP, & Sawmaster).
-For cutting porcelain and vitreous tile
-Wet cutting continuous rim, super hi-rim diamond blade
-10" diameter, 5/8" arbor, .060" thick
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Good question Andy,I have the theory down on diamond blades but can't comment with any real expertise on this particular blade.My guess is it is a med to soft bonding matrix and it will wear quicker than necessary if you are cutting only ceramic tile. Also it will cut harder stones like granite but may need occassional dressing for top cutting performance. In other words it is somewhat of a compromise. It won't do either job fantastic but it will do everything ok.Porcelain is extremely hard and not very abrasive so you would want to use the softest bonding matrix for it otherwise you will end up with a very dull blade after just a few cuts. Also using a high priced/high quality blade should get you a higher concentration of diamond in the bonding matrix.I don't know how precise your cuts need to be in the tumbled marble/limestone you mentioned in one of your posts. The last time I cut tumbled limestone was for a backsplash and it was mostly just cut outs for elec outlets and occasionally trimming a tile where the cut edge gets buried in a corner. For this type of work a 4 1/2" electroplated blade in either a small circular saw or in a angle grinder is incredibly quick, easy and gives great cutting performance. I would go nuts if I had to cut the stuff on a big wet saw.
It tends to be colder, wetter, messier and even with a continuous rim blade I conventional tile saw blades more inclined to chip the limestone.Karl
You know Karl...its funny. I was thinking about what you said about "dressing the blade". Never heard that before in all the tile discussions I've been in.
The electroplated blades I've certainly heard of but haven't ever had the pleasure to use...yet.
I was thinking as I was finishing up my full TM pieces on the ceiling what you JUST said. The reason you can cut granite with a marble blade.
You had me thinking that with your blade dressing answer.
Well...off to go get some mosaics for the floor and curved bench seat...Just finsished the ceiling and still no blade in the mail (its only been one day...lol).
Good talking with you...great answers!!!!
Namaste'
andy...
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Andy,
Your Kerdi shower is looking great. The guys at John Bridge frequently talk about dressing the blade -- when someone asks about a dull blade or one that is pulling to the left or right.
I'm looking forward to the pics after you get the mosaics. It sounds like the luan plywood and thinset was not a problem. It should be bulletproof under the Kerdi.
Billy
Thanks Billy...yeh..I did post something in JB's forum about how to do the "luan" properly if that sthe route you go.
I did several tests to be certain it would work. Some ways did work and some did not.
The part that JB misses is you need to scuff up the luan real good w/a 36 grit paper. I t gives the wood a better "bite" for the thinset...without doing that the thinset comes off in pieces. Hardly adheres well because of the mill haze and who knows why else.
With the 36 grit it becomes very Zen like...becomes "one". LOL
Doing the mosaics aon the curved bench seat and the floor soon as my blade comes.
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I saw your thread over at JB. Great point about scuffing the luan.
Good folks over there. Nice tips over in the Pro hangout, some fun folks over in the Mudbox forum.
That curved bench is going to look nice when you're done.
Billy
Lookin' sweet brotha.
Curious....where'd ya get the tile....and what it run?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Thanks dude
The Kerdi I got from http://www.tileprotection.com/catalog/index.html
I think they're the cheapest.
The tumbled marble I got from Home Depot. Cheapest by "far"!! $6 a sq ft.
The mosaic 1x2 at EXPO is about $10 a sq ft..."half" the price of any tile store around here.
If HD has what you need its sooooooooo much cheaper there.
The least expensive 1x1 or 1x2 from all the tile stores...and I must have called close to a dozen was $22 and thats with my discount.
I stopped in a few tile stores on my way to HD this afternoon to see if it looked that much different. Not! Some did but not for twice the price.
A lot of the tile stores had it for over $30 a sq ft...geezzz. For tumbled marble???
####
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Yep....that's what I thought.
I did my bath with the same 4 x 4 tumbled marble from HD about three years ago.
As great as that $6/ sq. ft. is.....I only paid $4 at the time.
I sh!t thee not. $4 a square foot.
I had no intentions of doing a tumbled marble in my bath. Even getting the tile at my supplier, with my discount, it was too expensive. I happened to be shopping for a border for a customer at HD one day. Saw the tumbled marble....saw the price....got the head of the tile dept. to confirm the price....called my wife and told her to find someone to watch the kids. I was coming to get her.
We snatched it right there and then because I couldn't believe this wasn't a one time deal.
If I remember correctly....the 1 x 1 mats ran around $12 per square foot. I think the best price I had found them for previous was around $15 per.
I felt like a thief leaving HD that day.
Sorry to ramble. I just still can't believe that deal.
Anyway.....keep us posted on your project. Looks great brotha!
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Yeh...well, when I bought these which are the exact same tiles I think I paid about what you did which was about 3 years ago give or take.
Did my backsplash in the kitchen and the showerstall in my master bathroom.
Wish I'd have known about......uhhhhhhhh..geezzz I forget the name of the site off hand but they sell you an entire skid for like $2 a sq ft.
I could have used that here with all the TM I bought.
The skids aren't huge either but too big for just a small job.
If you ever want the name ask me and I'll look it up.
They sell all kinda building materials in "lots/skids".
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Looks great! All of it.
I'm assuming you sealed the marble on the backsplash. How is it holding up?
Did my kitchen two years back....DW and I still haven't found a tile we agree on for the backsplash. I've stayed away from natural stones.....especially unpolished stones ....for fear they'd get trashed right quick.
Mine is a REAL kitchen (as opposed to those showpiece kitchens we're paid to do)....gets regular, heavey duty, four kids, usage. Just keeping the cooktop decent looking is a job in itself. Regular scrubbing of a backsplash does not interest me.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I'm assuming you sealed the marble on the backsplash. How is it holding up?<<<<<Nope..and its holding up like the day I installed it.
Only sealed the shower and floor in another bathroom.
Actually I forgot to seal the backsplash and its been fine...even behind the stove . Its been quite a long time.This shower I'm doing now is OK...but its really nothing I consider "very" special at all. Trying to keep the costs down which also means not spending a life time doing it. I know to a potential buyer that they'll really love it but if it were a house that I was staying in...it would be a whole lot more intense!!! One thing for sure though...when you have the right tools you can make even junk look like a million bucks specially w/tile and the right saw and blades.
This is a sort of spec house so....althoughhhh, I am really starting to dig it unfortunatly. Thats not supposed to happen...lol. I don't even wanna tell you what the taxes will be going up to here on the "Gold Coast". Especially in this town...whewwwwwwwwww.
Its not uncommon for houses up the road from me to be taxed over thirty grand! {{{{{{{{shuddering}}}}}}}
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
BTW...the photos don't really show the color right except in that close up for some reason.
They're not as different in color (darks and lights) as some of the pictures make em' out to
be.
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Hot Dog
Hot Dawg
I forget which. By Felker?
Not sure.
Bought one at the tile store where I get "trade" discount for around $80.00
HD has them for $53.00
Ouch
Good all around blade, cuts everything quite well.
[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
MK Hot Dog? http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00009YUJT/?tag2=flashresource-20
7" $45 at Home Depot $60 most other places I checked
10" I believe.
I was going to quote Steven Tyler here but I don't want to spend the w/e in jail.
[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
Yeh...I know about the hot dog... Thats MK as well.
I had almost gotten the hot dog 225
http://www.constructioncomplete.com/TileSawDiamondBladeGranitePorcelain/MKDiamondProductsMK22510inHotDog.html
b/c I think that would have been the best one to get but the deal I was getting on the MK415 was too good to pass up!
http://www.toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=5321
Wish it would hurry up and get here already...its alrady been over 24 hours since I ordered it,,,geezzz...lol
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I knew you and Andy were talking 10"
I was just trying to confirm the spelling and manufacturer for you
I gave the 7" pricing as that is the info I had for the one I just bought yesterday for my small saw. Was a bit dissapointed. Didn't perform any better than the cheap blade I had on there. Pretty thin blade - at least in the 7"