FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Wet venting

davidmeiland | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 25, 2006 02:31am

I got out my ’03 IRC and tried to read up on this, but my eyes started to glaze. Bottom line is, will this fly?

New upstairs bathroom, has a toilet, shower, and vanity sink. The toilet is in an inconvenient spot to vent… I cannot go into the walls behind or next to it and get out to the roof. The 3″ stack is about 5 feet away from the toilet flange, and I’ll be connecting the shower to the stack in the manner shown. From that wye fitting it’s about 4′ back to where the vent wyes in. So, the toilet seems to me to be 5′ from its vent fitting, and then there’s a 4′ section of wet vent. Everything in the drawing is either 3″ or 2″.

The sink connects to the vent well above the floor… no problem there.

A few years ago I would not have thought this acceptable, under the UPC. The IRC appears to permit this, and more.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. BillBrennen | Oct 25, 2006 03:35am | #1

    I thought the 2" vent pipe had to take off the top of the horizontal 3" drain before it hits the bend going down. My UPC is ancient, won't bother looking there.

    I knew a plumber who told me that wet vents were often better than dry vents because the water kept them from becoming obstructed. Makes sense to me.

    Bill

    1. davidmeiland | Oct 25, 2006 03:53am | #2

      My thought was to drop down below the 3" elbow and bring in the 2" using a wye or combo. That way there's no flat venting... I think.

      1. BillBrennen | Oct 25, 2006 04:04am | #3

        Yeah, I saw your sketch. The horizontal vent lay has to slope back to the drain, and it will be fine. What you drew will work, but may not be legal. I'm not really sure. Where's Plumbbill when we need him?Bill

        1. plumbbill | Oct 25, 2006 04:08am | #4

          LOL

          How do I type the music to "here I am to save the day"

          <G>When asked why is there four engines on a 747------ "cause we couldn't fit six" a Boeing engineer

          1. BillBrennen | Oct 25, 2006 04:35am | #6

            Our Hero! The day is saved!

  2. plumbbill | Oct 25, 2006 04:14am | #5

    UH OH Dave

    Houston we have a problem.

    Vent for toilet has to come off the top 1/3 of the pipe.

    Wet venting is perfectly fine by the UPC which WA state goes by, but some locals don't allow it all.

    Wet venting has to be done in the vertical section of vent.

    limited to 1 & 2 unit fixtures

    The wet vented section must be one pipe size larger than the minimum allowed for that fixture vent.

    I be back with a quick (ugly) drawing for ya

    TTFN

    When asked why is there four engines on a 747------ "cause we couldn't fit six" a Boeing engineer

    1. davidmeiland | Oct 25, 2006 05:14am | #7

      OK, let's suppose the 2" in my sketch was not the drain for the shower. Then I have a legit dedicated dry vent for the toilet. It connects to the vertical section of the drain. Since this is in a 2x10 floor system I do not see any way to use a tee or wye in the horizontal 3" and rotate it upward enough to prevent flat venting, AND get it into a wall, AND prevent overdrilling a joist (actually, drilling in the top part of the joist). Therefore I put the vent fitting in the vertical pipe just below the elbow from horizontal.

      I do see what you're saying about the wet vent being vertical. Makes sense. My drawing is bogus. I am violating code. I am getting red-tagged. I am a hack. I am out of the union and on the street as a low-life no-license fly-by-night git-er-done wannabe plumber. I need to get a rusty old brown van to go with my new enterprise.

      But that's why we got these boards, see? Because guys like you can throw down some info on how it's done right and keep me outta trouble. Good thing this is just the bathroom in my shop, eh? You probably thought I was moonlighting off-license and screwing up someone's waterfront mansion. No chance, boss.

      1. plumbbill | Oct 25, 2006 06:00am | #8

        How am I to be able to type when I'm crackin up over that post.

        OK I was able to find my kids program that was keepin me from being able to use the scanner.

        Here is a quickfire drawing of how it's done by the book.

        The problem in your drawing is that extra 90 that turns down into the vent fitting.

        It could possibly create a siphon of the toilet when it is priming the bowl after a flush.

        I didn't draw it but you could plumb the 2 together without wet venting it.

        If you bring both drain lines into the vertical on the same plane then you could use a san cross 3" san cross with 3x2 bushing on shower side & top for vent.

        This would be a simple back to back configuration.

        "flat venting" is a strange situation that some jurisdiction get crazy over.

        By definition the vent is not actually flat just have to slope it 1/4" per foot untill you get 6" above the flood level of the fixture that it serves.When asked why is there four engines on a 747------ "cause we couldn't fit six" a Boeing engineer

        1. davidmeiland | Oct 25, 2006 06:18am | #9

          OK, I understand your drawing. That's a more typical stack situation than I have. The 3" comes up thru the slab and up thru a first floor interior wall. The problem is that there is not a wall stacked above. Sounds like what I need to do is turn the 3" down into the wall and connect to the stack below the vent fitting, i.e. use a 3-2 reducer at the highest possible point in the stack and vent there. The shower drain can come down into the wall also and wye into the stack.

          I'll go to the other computer and throw a sketch in here shortly.

          1. davidmeiland | Oct 25, 2006 06:52am | #10

            OK, mebbe like this.

            edit: better to bring in the shower above the toilet? Or doesn't it matter?

            Edited 10/24/2006 11:54 pm by davidmeiland

          2. plumbbill | Oct 25, 2006 03:28pm | #12

            Oh so close.

            If you were to pull a vent off the 2" drain for the shower right by where the vent for the toilet goes vertical then connect them together atleast 24" above the floor it would be text book plumbing 101.

            Toilet above shower---- shower above toilet, either way no biggie their both protected by a trap.When asked why is there four engines on a 747------ "cause we couldn't fit six" a Boeing engineer

          3. davidmeiland | Oct 25, 2006 04:59pm | #14

            I think I can... I think I can... that calls for the san cross fitting, unheard of by mere mortals. Keller was just here yesterday with my shower valve and some incredibly expensive large self-feed bits. I'll call my plumber this AM and see if he keeps those in stock. They sure ain't got 'em at the local places.

          4. plumbbill | Oct 26, 2006 04:46am | #17

            OK I didn't look that close at yer second pic.

            Still turnin that toilet down before the vent---- can't do that.

            With yer second drawing you don't need a san cross---- which I think home desperate calls a double san tee.

            What ya need to do is instead of a 90 on the toilet waste from horizontal to vertical , you need to use a 3" san tee put a 3x2 bushing in the top & a 2" street short turn 90 on that then run over to the wall with the 2" @ 1/4" per foot grade then vertical at the wall.

            At that wall you need to use a 2" "combo"---- combination "wye" & "45" on the shower drain then 2' above the floor tie the two vents together.

            Here's a drawing of it.

             When asked why is there four engines on a 747------ "cause we couldn't fit six" a Boeing engineer

          5. davidmeiland | Oct 26, 2006 05:15am | #18

            All is clear now. I did not know that you couldn't turn down before the vent. Thinking about it, I've had the good fortune to do most of my drains in a crawl space rather than within a floor package, which is a lot harder. In a crawl space you can always use a wye or a combo as a vent fitting, pointing at least 45 degrees up.

            A slight twist to your design is what I found today... a 3" 90 with a 2" vent outlet... I believe the trade term is a "low heel 90", which I can use to make the turn down from the toilet. There is just enough room for this height-wise if I go with a street 90 out of the vent outlet, as you suggest. Then the shower comes in below.

            If people would stop bugging me to fix their dang houses I'd get this done and inspected next week. Thanks for all the help.

             

          6. plumbbill | Oct 26, 2006 05:40am | #19

            No problem glad to help---- uh wait I think that deserves a beer @ JLC

            I think we're all talkin about thursday I'll have to check the thread.When asked why is there four engines on a 747------ "cause we couldn't fit six" a Boeing engineer

          7. davidmeiland | Oct 26, 2006 06:05am | #20

            Yeah, Thursday evening. You know someplace with low enough standards to let us all in?

          8. plumbbill | Oct 26, 2006 06:18am | #21

            Let me get my Garth hat on------ I got friends in low............

            You really don't want to hear me sing it's not very pretty <G>

            Well last time I was in that part of downtown was for my union contract vote---- a bunch of ended up at gamecrazy right across the street.

            Decent burger & a bar----- since it's a thursday the crowd should be small---- I'm guessing.When asked why is there four engines on a 747------ "cause we couldn't fit six" a Boeing engineer

        2. User avater
          BillHartmann | Oct 25, 2006 03:05pm | #11

          I also get very confused by this.But it was my understanding that you and fixtures below the toilet would be wet vented. And that code does not allow wet venting for anythig below a toilet.

          1. plumbbill | Oct 25, 2006 03:33pm | #13

            The wording in the code book is so bad on this it's ridiculous.

            Yes the code says "that you can't wet vent a water closet", but that actually means that you can't run the toilet waste into another fixtures vent.

            The last IAPMO meeting I went to that was brought up, the president for the NW chapter just kinda rolled his eyes & said "we have bigger fish to fry"When asked why is there four engines on a 747------ "cause we couldn't fit six" a Boeing engineer

          2. User avater
            BillHartmann | Oct 25, 2006 10:34pm | #15

            "Yes the code says "that you can't wet vent a water closet", but that actually means that you can't run the toilet waste into another fixtures vent."Yes. but isn't that what he has here.What is the purpose of the pipe that runs from the first floor into this space and then out the roof.Doens' tha vent fixtures on the first floor?

          3. plumbbill | Oct 26, 2006 04:10am | #16

            I hope not.

            I didn't see that his pipe going down was a vent from the first floor.

            If so you can't by code run any waste into that.When asked why is there four engines on a 747------ "cause we couldn't fit six" a Boeing engineer

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Vintage Sash Windows Get an Energy-Efficient Upgrade

Low-e storm panels improve the energy efficiency of these old sash windows without changing their classic look.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • From Victorian to Mid-Century Modern: How Unico Fits Any Older Home
  • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
  • Vintage Sash Windows Get an Energy-Efficient Upgrade
  • Design and Build a Pergola

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data