I have a crappily put together, filthy, mildewy corner stall shower in my back bathroom that I’m trying to make serviceable again (without ripping it out and starting over). I’ve replaced the missing piece in the faucet, cleaned the thing from top to bottom, and removed all of the failed, blackened caulk from the bottom edges.
The surround is plastic against the two bathroom walls. The pan is either fiberglass or plasitc, I think the latter. The non-wall sides of the shower are wavy-textured glass panels fitted in aluminum frames, with a glass door on the corner.
That glass panel-and-door assembly moves some 1/4″ or more relative to the pan. I don’t expect *any* caulk to hold against that kind of movement, so I want to use some kind of construction adhesive on the outside of the panel/pan joint, and then caulk on the inside after the adhesive has set.
What kind of adhesive would you recommend? The bathroom has no ventilation (other than a small window above the sink), and the shower drain flange is set about 1/4″ too high (or maybe the pan has settled), so the pan doesn’t completely drain – in other words, moisture is going to be an ongoing problem. Fortunately, we don’t really use this bathroom much.
I assume a 100% silicone caulk with mildewcide will be what is needed for the inside.
Thanks,
Rebeccah
Replies
Rebeccah,
Since you aren't ready to use napalm on this stall, then I'd suggest PL Premium. Be aware that it will swell up some as it cures. Get all the free water outta there or it will swell up a LOT. Then your silicone.
Bill
Thanks, Bill.Where can I get PL Premium? I saw lots of PL adhesives at OSH, but not that one.Rebeccah
Rebeccah,Most real lumberyards carry the PL Premium, as do Home Depots where I live.Like the others said, it may look ugly where it shows, it is deep tan and cures with bulges in a caulklike joint.Another option, just as strong but white, is 3M 5200 marine polyurethane caulk. This stuff is ~$10 a tube and emits a very strong odor when applied. (Wear a charcoal respirator if you use it.) It is tenacious stuff, utterly strong and waterproof. It won't cure bulgy, either, if the joint is dry when you apply it. Our local HD has it.The PL Premium is cheaper and stinks way less. It will hold it until the napalm is ready.Bill
"That glass panel-and-door assembly moves some 1/4" or more relative to the pan. "
Just what is moving? Just where would you put the adhesive?
Typically you have a glass and frame with hinges. The other side of the hinges are attached to a strip that into attaches to the wall.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
There are three glass panels with a 45 degree angle between each pair. The ends are hinged as you describe. One hinge flexes and the other extends a degree or two, and the two angles and the door between them move to the left (the aluminum flexes a little). Push the other way and the first hinge extends and the other one flexes, and the door and angles move to the right.The adhesive would join the bottom of the glass panels to the top of the pan curb.
Edited 2/21/2007 3:19 pm by Rebeccah
I put one of those togehter a could of years ago, but I don't remember the details.I was think that there where either screws from the bottom of the frame into the base or that there was a double sided tape that held it in place and also sealed it. But I am not sure.And there are scews in the top of the fram that connects it all.The "best" would be to disassemble the unit so tht you can get space under the bottom of the fram and above the top of the base and put caulking in their. But I doult that is practicle.But I would either use the silicon (I like the GE II) or polyurathane caulk. The silicone tools and cleans up with rubbing alcholl. The urathane needs mineral spirits. Put a bead on both the inside and outside and then wiggle it back and forth. Then tool it and wait a couple of days it to harden.You want it ansepticaly clean first..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
So, forget the PL Premium, then?Rebeccah
I love PL preumium (well in a brotherly way, don't want gunner to get the wrong idea).And where you have to piece that are either covered up (IE, in the walls) or where all of it is between the two pieces then it is great.But, as best I can visualize this, you will at least have squeeze out and the edge between the frame and the base that will show.If that is the case then you don't want to use PL preumium..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I agree with Bill. PL is probably not the right product here. One option would be to get some glass block silicone adhesive. HD usually carries it back with the glass block supplies. Read and follow the instructions, there is a short working time."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Very interesting. I just found online a set of assembly and installation instructions for a unit similar to mine. It included how to piece the whole frame together, and everything. In the instructions, there is nothing but a bead of silicone sealant, on the outside only, connecting the bottom of the frame to the top of the pan.Go figger.
Some shower door and angle wall assemblies use caulk on the outside only because the inside is used as a drain way for water off the glass. The rubber gaskets at the edges of the glass don't seal tight and water is allowed to drain down and out to the inside. Might want to check yours out before sealing inside.