FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

What amperage breaker do I need?

dovetail97128 | Posted in Tools for Home Building on June 2, 2009 08:33am

What amp. breaker do I need for this motor?

230 Volts 1 Phase 20.8 FLA (Full Load Amps)

Currently have 2-twin 30 amp circuits for table saw, jointer and planer ( all have 2 hp. motors) and one twin 50( originally set up for a welder).
Shop is set up with one twin 30 circuit down each side already so planer/jointer and saw are on different circuits.
This motor would be for a dust collector.


They can’t get your Goat if you don’t tell them where it is hidden.
Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. gfretwell | Jun 02, 2009 08:59am | #1

    Sounds like a 30 to me.

  2. Jer | Jun 02, 2009 01:41pm | #2

    30. is there room?

  3. JTC1 | Jun 02, 2009 03:04pm | #3

    Like everbody else, sounds like 30A breaker to me.

    Thought:

    If the old 50A line is unused, and the cable terminates in a convenient location for your dust collector - you could change the 50A breaker to a 30A, and the receptacle to a 30A style and utilize the existing (#6?) cable to feed it.

    This plan assumes the #6 cable will connect properly to the 30A receptacle and breaker - a quick read on the devices will confirm or deny. Might need a magnifier........

    Saves a little on cable and labor and will function just fine.

    Jim 

    Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
    1. Jer | Jun 02, 2009 03:17pm | #4

      "This plan assumes the #6 cable will connect properly to the 30A receptacle and breaker"Accessible junction, probably right inside the panel.

      1. dovetail97128 | Jun 02, 2009 03:40pm | #5

        OK 30 amp breaker it is. I forgot to ask an important question however.
        Does that mean that the breaker for the dust collector is a dedicated circuit or can it be shared with one of the 2 hp. units and have them operate simultaneously? I can swap out the 50 amp breaker and outlet easily enough if I need to.
        They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

        1. Jer | Jun 02, 2009 07:19pm | #13

          "Does that mean that the breaker for the dust collector is a dedicated circuit or can it be shared with one of the 2 hp. units and have them operate simultaneously?"Depends on what they're pulling and what the code allows (if at all) for stacking & looping onto a 220 line.
          You don't want that circuit to trip every time you turn those machines on.

      2. JTC1 | Jun 02, 2009 04:37pm | #7

        Accessibility at either end was not my concern.

        My primary concern was the maximum, approved, wire size rating for the new 30A receptacle.

        The breaker wire size rating should be fine, just warned him to check ---- jus' tryin' ta stay legal!

        JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

        1. dovetail97128 | Jun 02, 2009 04:40pm | #9

          Understood and appreciated.
          They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

        2. Jer | Jun 02, 2009 07:15pm | #12

          "wire size rating for the new 30A receptacle."I believe it's 10 guage for 30
          8 guage for 40 and so onAny junctions to a wire gauge change are ok so long as the gauge of any wire used is code with the amp breaker size. Maybe the code has changed on that though, I'm sure Bill would know. All junctions must be accessible.

          1. JTC1 | Jun 02, 2009 10:37pm | #16

            You missed my point re: maximum approved wire size - AKA listed wire size.

            dovetail (OP) got it.

            Many / most devices have a maximum wire gauge which can be safely connected to them --- that maximum size is known as the "listed" maximum.

            It has to do with the physical space available and configuration of the device's connection points. Screws, clamps, back-stab holes, whatever.

            For example, many 15A duplex outlets are listed for #14 or #12 ga wire - they are "listed" for connection to these wire gauges regardless of the breaker installed on the circuit.

            It would be a no-no to attempt to connect #8 wire to these devices even though you had installed a 15 or 20A breaker on the circuit.

            I was merely pointing out that I was unsure of the maximum listed wire gauge for dovetail's new 30A receptacle - if he chose to go the "trade out breaker and receptacle" route to power his dust collector.

            Breakers are typically also typically listed as to maximum wire size (minimum also sometimes).

            You are correct in that a 30A circuit would "normally" be wired with #10 ga wire, and his new 30A receptacle would certainly accept, and be listed for use with, #10 wire.

            However, my suggestion was to leave the existing #6 wire in place (from the unused 50A arc welder circuit); change out the old 50A breaker to a 30A, and the existing receptacle to a 30A.

            Therefore, I was suggesting for him to be using the existing #6 wire in a 30A circuit. It was declared a 30A circuit by changing the breaker from a 50A to a 30A. 

            #6 is two gauges larger than the "normal" #10 wire for this circuit rating. 

            I was most concerned with the maximum wire size rating for his new receptacle(nothing to do with amperage or breaker sizing).

            Less concerned with the breaker as they are typically listed for use with wire gauges in excess of their "normal" amperage rating's wire gauge.

            This wire size listing information is usually supplied on the packages, or by stickers on the device, or molded directly into the device's body, or stamped into the metal of the device's yoke.

            Likewise, most devices (all?) carry a listing for wire type - "Cu only" or "Copper Conductors Only", or "Al/Cu" - either aluminum or copper.  Have never consciously seen an "Al only" listing - but they might exist.

            I also understand that wire gauge changes are acceptable (but not my preference) within the circuit - i.e., he could pigtail #10 onto the existing #6 within the receptacle box if he needed to (assuming he had changed the breaker to 30A).

            IMHO, it would be a superior method to connect the existing #6 directly to the new receptacle if it was listed to accept #6 wire.

            Fewer connections within the circuit, and less junk in the receptacle box - "Ahm toldin ya, them war nuts fer a #6 anna #10 kin get rat big, an thet #6 war ain't too flex-e-bull niether!" :-)

            Jim  

             Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.

          2. Jer | Jun 03, 2009 02:46am | #17

            You missed my point re: maximum approved wire size"No....I didn't. I got it loud & clear before. You answered my question though.

          3. gfretwell | Jun 03, 2009 09:39am | #18

            The 30a receptacle for that dust collector will probably take 6ga wire and if it has internal overload protection, like Bill was describing, the 50a breaker is OK.
            I thought he was planning on keeping the welder circuit and it would usually be OK if he did. I am sharing my welder circuit with my 5HP pressure cleaner (both 30a 240v) and since I will never be pressure cleaning while I am arc welding I call that non-coincidental loads. I think the same would be true of the dust collector.

    2. User avater
      BillHartmann | Jun 02, 2009 04:23pm | #6

      Actually if it is a dedicated circuit he can probably keep the 50 amp breaker.But I need to get the code book out and look at the details to find that max breaker size..
      William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

      1. dovetail97128 | Jun 02, 2009 04:38pm | #8

        I was hoping you would post a reply here.
        Not sure I understand your comment about the dedicated circuit, but here is what I have: 50 amp. dedicated welder circuit.
        30 amp, west wall of shop 3 outlets. (220 13 amp planer almost exclusively)
        30 amp east wall of shop , 3 outlets (220 15 amp table saw almost exclusively)
        30 amp dedicated heater circuit. Now that I typed that out I can answer my own question.. the 30 amp circuits won't handle both the dust collector and the saw or planer at the same time.
        Can I switch out one of the 30 amp breakers for a 40 amp?
        Wire is romex #10. Maybe better to wire in a sub panel as the main panel is full up on 220 circuits.
        They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

        1. gfretwell | Jun 02, 2009 05:02pm | #10

          I think I would put the dust collector on with the welder. They are not going to be used at the same time in a one man shop.
          What Bill was talking about is you can use a breaker 250x the FLA of the motor so 50 will work.

          1. dovetail97128 | Jun 02, 2009 05:17pm | #11

            Thank You for the clarifications.
            They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

        2. User avater
          BillHartmann | Jun 02, 2009 07:32pm | #14

          "Can I switch out one of the 30 amp breakers for a 40 amp?
          Wire is romex #10."No, if I understand correctly.First you need to look at if the circuit is dedicated to a know motor load or not.Now you can have receptacles on a dedicated motor circuit if it is needed repositioning or maintaining equipment. But not if you want to plug in different combination of equipment. Then it becomes a general purpose circuit.The whole purpose of the code is to protect the wiring and of course the structure that it is attached to. It is not to protect the load. Motors are suppose to have either starters with motor overload protection or overload protection in the motor. Most motors of this size have internal protection. Typically a button that will pop out. Some applications have self-resting overloads. But for something operating machinery you don't them to restart unknown. So they should have a manual reset.On a general purpose circuit you never know the what combination of loads is going to be. So the breaker must be sized to protect the wiring from long time overloads.For the dedicated circuits the the load is known. And the wire can withstand a large amount of overload for a short period of time. So the breaker can be sized to only protect the wire from a fault, ie short. And for motor overloads the motor overload will trip. So basically the wire is sized for the nominal motor load and the breaker (or fused) is can be much largers. IIRC it can be 1.75 to 2.5 times the nominal motor current depending on the type of breaker or fuse.Now you can have multiple KNOWN motors on a dedicated circuit. But the calculations are more complicated.The classical case is for central AC compressors. They have 2 motors (compressor and fan). But all of the calculations are done for you and the label will have a minimum circuit (wire) rating and a much larger maximum breaker size."Maybe better to wire in a sub panel as the main panel is full up on 220 circuits."Probably the best option. While dedicated motor circuits and be useful and might want to install one for large and hard starting equipment, such as an air compressor, in general they are too trickly to use in an "uncontrolled" situation and you never know in the future what some one will try to plug into those circuits..
          William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

          Edited 6/2/2009 12:36 pm by BillHartmann

  4. migraine | Jun 02, 2009 09:52pm | #15

    the rule of thumb that i have gone by is that items like welders, compressors, power feeders should be on their own circuit becuase the are on a constant load.  I'm not an electrician, so this opinion will vary.   i have been told to size up to 150% of the max load.  I have even been told 200%.  My understanding that this is a general rule of thumb.  Each device must be calculated by an engineer to be legal.

    I have been know to run a table saw, shaper and dust collector on the same circuit(20A), but rarely do they run combined and never loaded all at the same time.  I have not had a problem.  

    But, I usually do have dedicated circuits for each piece of equiptment.  I also run 3/4' EMT on most walls of the shop/garage with twist lock recepticles so that I never have a problem moving machinery around.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Join some of the most experienced and recognized building professionals for two days of presentations, panel discussions, networking, and more.

Featured Video

Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With Viewrail

Learn more about affordable, modern floating stairs, from design to manufacturing to installation.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 686: Brick Steps, Ground-Source Heat Pumps, and Greenhouses in Nova Scotia
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Efficient HVAC for a New Build
  • Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans
  • FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data