Guess this question is slanted toward sparkies and turd chasers, but amounst brands, do you notice a difference?
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For a brace: Irwin
For a hole hog: Lennox or Milwaukee
Chuck S
For a BRACE, you ain't had fun till you cranked on a shell auger or a spoon bit. That's all we could use at Williamsburg, because the Jennings twist auger hadn't been invented yet, so even if ya had one, it stayed hidden away till no one was looking.
I'm still on a set of Craftsmans that have a 1/4" hex shank, single flute from a set that was maybe 20 bucks when I was a kid. 1/4"-1" and been sharpened a zillion times.
Anything over 1" and for wires, I use Greenlee first, the nail eaters..for where the are no nails, them Irwin and Ridgids are pretty dang good.
Then I got a few up to 2" and 3" with a T handle, from sales and antique shops..one is NICE and tall, it has like a 3' handle. You can drill a hole in a floor standing up.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
You got me thinking, where the heck are my Russell Jennings auger bits. I have the entire set, where I don't know, haven't used them in 20 years.If I find my brace' I'll find the augers.Spoon bits I have seen used by an old englishman who made 3 legged stools ,chairs etc for a hobby that earned him a few extra bucks.
mike
Geeze, I made spoons and nose augers myself, can't find em ( or I couldn't then B4 Internet) easy. I do have a newish tapered chairmakers spoon type cutter, it makes a leg taper hole, cuts in both directions..great when sharp, but hates endgrain in the plank seats. There is a good reason Windsors had 3 differnt woods in them and then painted. Pine seat, easily carved and drilled, maple legs, turn crisp and strong, ash or hickory hoop and spindles, easy to bend.
I got a tapered bung borer too..now that was an invention.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Milwaukee, Lennox, Greenlee, Irwin in that order.....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
For paddles, I like Irwins and Bosch. The Bosch has a threaded tip that really pulls through the wood but the tip is a little brittle. I've seen a Greenlee set at the elec supply house that looks interesting. They're tapered so they will go into existing holes.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
I just got a set of these Irwin Speedbore bits. Put them in your impact drive and WOW|!!!!
They cut through wood like butter!
yup! but you cry longer when you hit a nail :(
Bad question.
Since I stopped using a drill, and started using an impact driver, there's only been one bit to choose: the Irwin Superbor Max. It won't cut nails, but nothing's perfect in this world.
The Superbor Max isn't quite like any other bit out there. part auger, past spade bit, with three cutting edges. Impact driver and bit easily fits between studs. And NO wrist strain. Ever.
For larger holes, it's hard to improve on the "forstener style" self-feed bits. I just might get the impact Milwaukee makes for them - and I don't like Milwaukee!
I like Ideal Nailbiters for twist bits. (My drill bits seem to be automatic nail detectors -- find one almost every time.) These seem to win most "nail vs. bit" fights.
For larger holes, I prefer the Milwaukee self-feed, tho' for even larger holes, I man up and use the hole saw bits (but I hate every second of it).
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA