I’m installing all the pre hung interior doors on my house and on two of them the hinges are binding. As I close the door, about 1/2 inch from hitting the stop, I meet resistance like the door doesn’t want to shut. If I push it closed, it looks like the hinges “flex” or move a little. Why do hinges bind like this and what is the fix? Maybe the level is off or the hinge side is not perfectly plumb? I’ve put in 10 though and only 2 bind. Any advise on what to look for is appreciated. Also, I am using trim head screws to set the jambs. The doors are solid 1 3/4 and HEAVY so I’m thinking the screws might not be enough since they have small heads. Do you guys think they are enough or should I screw off the hinge side with bigger screws or replace a hinge screw with a longer one?
Thanks a lot
Richie
Replies
It could be that the screws are a bit "proud", but more likely the hinges are simply malformed slightly such that they won't close flat. You can remove the screws from one side and see if the hinge closes flat then. If not it's a fairly easy task to bend it a bit (if it's a standard samped sheet metal hinge and not cast).
To bend: Reinstall all the screws (if you removed any) and then place something like an allen wrench between the leaves of the hinge, right up close to the knuckle. (The allen wrench works well since it provides a handy handle, allowing you to insert and hold it from the knuckle side.) Then force the door closed "gently", using a bit of discretion as to the force applied -- the door should creak a bit but not sound like it's ready to split apart.
Note that if you do this it will tend to cant the door outward and may throw off the clearances at top/bottom/latch edge, so you may need to "adjust" the other hinge even if it's not a problem.
Another reason for this sort of binding is if the hinges are simply mortised too deeply. This can be corrected using either the above procedure or by placing cardboard shims behind the hinges.
(Of course there are other possibilities such as the stop hitting the door too soon. You need to observe carefully the action of the door as it closes to see if one of these is the case. A handy thing to have is some quilter's transfer paper (like carbon paper) that you can stick in the door as it closes to mark where it's binding.)
Take a look at the plane of the jamb in relation to the opening.
If the jamb is just a bit cocked, it'll show up on the hinge moving when the resistance is met. For this reason, sometimes both door edges are beveled (so the hinges don't bind ).
Yep, what's already been said, it dont fit right, interference. See where it dont fit and fixit.
Reply to all
Thanks guys. It doesn't seem like they are hitting the stop too soon and there is no contact on the strike sides. I was considering trying to bend the hinge a little and then reset the strike side if necessary. What about the trim screws. You guys think they are enough to mount the doors or should I use screws with a bigger head?
Thanks all
Richie
Lag bolts.
I think you'll get some differing opinions as to how to mount the doors. An amazing number of interior hollow-cores (and likely the occasional exterior door or window) are fastened with just the nails through the trim -- no fasteners through the jambs at all. I'm no expert (as many here will gladly tell you), but on the few I've done (interior) I've used deck screws through the hinge side, hidden behind the hinge plates, then relatively large finish nails on the latch side. Trim screws would be an improvement, I suppose.
For exterior, to heck with appearance -- they get screws. (Though often the screws can be hidden behind the gasket.)
I'm wondering if the jambs on the hinge side aren't perpendicular to the face of the door. i.e. the hinge pin side of the jamb is too far back, so the door edge hits that side of the jamb before the door is fully closed.
Ron,
I'm wondering if the jambs on the hinge side aren't perpendicular to the face of the door...........
That's what I've found several times on doors where the hinge moves when you close it. Just slightly splayed and it will bind the hinge. With the trim removed it is easy to check. Insert a flat bar just behind the hinge and pry out lightly with the door closed.
Common cause, framing slightly twisted and when you fasten the jamb you pull it tight to the out of plane trimmer. Or, when hanging you stuff shims in one way only, rather than opposing, twisting the jamb.
Richie,
All interior doors are 1 3/8" , whether the're solid core, hollow core or 6-panel. 1 3/4" doors are exterior doors.
Are these pre-hungs in split jambs or solid jambs?
Boss has the right answer, especially since you are using screws to hang the jambs, you probably set the jamb so it is slightly out of paralell with the other side, hence the binding. Re-set the screw on that lower hinge by backing it out and slipping a shim in behind the jamb, snug it back up and check the fit, adjust as needed. You are putting shims in and fastening through them to the stud, right? Yes , you can remove a screw from the hinge and fasten the jamb through the hinge, this works best at the top hinge to prevent sagging over time, less critical at mid and bottom hinges but a good way to hide the screws.Use a nice brass wood screw so as not to make it stand out to much.
Good Luck,
Geoff
Fixed
U guys r the best. Jamb wasn't square to face of te doors. Little shimming and fixed. Geoff, they ARE 1 3/4 inch doors. Special order and heavy as hell! They have an awesome feel to them though. Worth the upgrade in my opinion from 1 3/8.
Richie
corection
all interior doors are NOT always 1-3/8"
While that is most common, I also have worked with them at 1-1/8", 1-1/2", and 1-3/4"
door hinges
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! This was my first time hanging a door and it was binding big time. The tip to reverse the hinge to the correct side did the trick. Saved me a bunch of $$$ calling "the man" in!
Hinges not closing
I encountered this problem myself today.
I was insatlling a custom fit door in a jamb that I had fabricated myself. I had separated the hinges into their two halves and when installing them, I had put one of the door side hinges on backwards. Consequently the door would only close with force and the screws were being pulled out of the door. Removing and reinstalling the hinge correctly solved the problem.
There's a comic aside to the backward hinge.
While not exactly something you'd expect, it could happen to someone unfamiliar with hinges and door hanging. In many cases, hanging a door has evolved into setting a prehung jamb-where the hinges never leave the factory set up.
I've seen painters do it-some of the notorious type that pull all the hardware, dump the whole shebang in a bucket, then at reassembly time-slap the stuff back on. Not all painters by any means, but it's been done. The ones that burn me the most, are the clutchless, worn out tipless kind of re-install. What once was an american made good steel phillips screw, is now a brutalized imitation of the new chinese machined butt hinge (all in the hands of a don't care, grind it till it spins, could care less who follows-painter.
But I digress.
Info about this thread-not the original post, but the backward hinge portion-has been mentioned on another forum. A shame really, as help when needed is why these forums are here. So what if it's from a novice or just a simple mistake. We've all made them-sure it's embarrassing, but so are alot of things.
The comical part is that not long into it, someone also confessed to flipping the hinge. Well I'll be.
I've never installed one inside out, but I sure as hell have put the ones with the cap or ball on the bottom upside down.
My greatest fear is cutting the top off, rather drastic to clear the carpet.
My wife's late stepdad was not the sort of guy who would take suggestions . . . or actually stop to think about things very much. He was building a screened gazebo and got to the point of hanging the screen door.
He installed the door and it drug on the bottom, so he removed the door and planed it off a bit.
Reinstalled and it still hung, so he took it down, got his saw, and cut about 1/4" off the door.
Reinstalled and it STILL was dragging, so he took it down again and took off another half-inch.
When he installed it again and it was still dragging I gently pointed out to him that there was a rather large gap at the top of the door.
Flexed cabinet hinges
DanH: thanks a million for this allen wrench fix. My toddler just flexed the hinges on an antique china cabinet by forcing the door past its open limit and it wouldn't close. I did a google search for a fix after I failed to bend the hinges with pliers. I'm so glad I found your post: your fix worked easily, quickly and correctly on the first try. Good technique! Thanks again, JT
Flexed cabinet hinges
DanH: thanks a million for this allen wrench fix. My toddler just flexed the hinges on an antique china cabinet by forcing the door past its open limit and it wouldn't close. I did a google search for a fix after I failed to bend the hinges with pliers. I'm so glad I found your post: your fix worked easily, quickly and correctly on the first try. Good technique! Thanks again, JT
MAJOR HINGE BINDING
THANK YOU!
DEAR GODDDDDD, THANK YOUUUUUU !!!
I was losing my mind with an interior door that would not come close
to closing. I've read every thing I could regarding HINGE BOUND.
This is the FIRST AND ONLY site to address the
hinges/counter sunk holes solution. The door now closes FLAWLESSLY.
Many, MANY THANKS.
Most problems result from one or more of the following causes: improperly aligned or loose hinges, an improperly aligned strike plate, warping of the door itself, or a frame that is out-of-square. Hope I'm not too late.