What do you think of ply-bead? That’s that stuff that looks like beadboard but comes in 4×8 sheets. I am thinking about using it as a ceiling in our log home. It won’t be part of the cathedral ceiling, but instead, it will go on top of the log floor joists that make up the second floor loft. So, when you are on the main floor under where the loft is, you would look up and see log joists with beadboard over the top. We plan to build a 2x subfloor on top of that for mechanicals to run through, so it would not be part of the structure. If it were clear coated, would it look good, or will we be disappointed?
I’m considering it because it would install quickly and it is about 30% cheaper than the 1×6 t&g I can get from a local mill. I know it will look more like 3.5 inches wide, but that would be fine…I think.
Anyway, just curious about this stuff.
Oh, and one side note to Armin: don’t read this. You know what I wish we could use!
Edited 4/30/2003 2:44:44 PM ET by Paula
Replies
Paula
Down side is: it must be face nailed, where the 1x6 can be blind nailed. Unless its paint grade you will most likely notice the putty used to cover the nails.
I noticed around here there are at least 2 grades of this stuff, some is real rough on the surface, lots of nicks and tear out on the face, the other is smooth, Exterior vs. Interior.
The other problem is going to be the joint were the two panels meet, you will have long straight noticeable breaks at the joint. Even if you staggered them every other sheet, a 4' break is going to look bad. It will not look the same and you will be able to tell its a panel and not true bead board.
Neil
guess there's always next year right?
CAG, if you read what you're studying the way you read this, you're gonna flunk. She's nailing it down from the top, and the joints can fall on the beams also.
I've used fake beadboard and thought it looked ok. If it is to be left unfinished, stained or clear coated it will look faker than if it is painted.
Joe H
Edited 4/30/2003 3:04:24 PM ET by JoeH
I stand corrected, you've never miss-read something here though?
guess there's always next year right?
Edited 4/30/2003 3:16:48 PM ET by CAG
Hey Neil 4
This reminds me of another thread....(kinda)..ugh.
B-real
Namaste
andy
In his first interview since the stroke, Ram Dass, 66, spoke with great difficulty about how his brush with death has changed his ideas about aging, and how the recent loss of two old friends, Timothy Leary and Allen Ginsberg, has convinced him that now, more than ever, is the time to ``Be Here Now.''
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Andy...couldn`t find your thread on topic....I promised to post a pic if I found one....finally did, although the quality isn`t great.
EDIT: Ugh, quality is even worse after upload. (How does one shrink a pic for posting?)
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
Edited 5/20/2003 11:33:46 AM ET by JAYBIRD
I used several sheets of that stuff for the wainscoting on our kitchen walls. It's fine if you're painting it, but not good at all if you're staining it because it's just cheap looking plywood. Be very selective when you buy it, pick through the pile because some sheets are good and others are junk. We had to putty a few factory defects and we squeezed caulk into the joints before it was all nailed up. Once primed and painted, I can't find a joint no matter how hard I look, and I know where they're at!
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
Thanks guys for the quick reply. So painting it, it might look okay, but if I'm clear coating it, I won't like it. I knew it was too good to be true. It still might have a place in our house, but probably not to the extent that I was hoping. I guess I'll keep sanding my giant pile of 1 x 6 tongue and groove and place an order for more! I wonder how many miles of t&g we'll have by the time this is done!
You've got it, paint only. I will say you should try it somewhere painted, maybe as wainscoting like we did with tall baseboard and a chair rail. It looks very good and a cheap way to add some class.
First Iraq, then France, then Hollywood!
It looks very good and a cheap way to add some class.
I thought that's what I was there for! I certainly don't want to be upstaged by some cheap wainscoating! LOL!
After you haul it back from the sanding shop, good heads up Doug, Paula, please stain/paint your 1x6, or whatever you may be using, prior to your install. For when that T&G shrinks, the "groove" won't show. Jim J
Paula
You state that you have a big pile of t&g 1X6 to sand, could you find a shop that has a wide belt sander that would run the stuff through for you, most cabinet shops should have one and most will for a fee run the stuff for you.
Just a suggestion. I hate to sand.
Doug
The edge is a half-lap, to plan ahead when installing it. This is a bit hard to describe, but plan so that as you typically look at the ceiling, the "over" half is the far side of the sheet. If you have the over half nearer to you, then you will see the edge where the sheets overlap more clearly. Keep it away from you, and the seams tend to disappear. If you're lucky, they'll all hide behind logs.
Just did a ceiling on my fathers patio with beadboard, painted it white and it looks really good. It doesn't look like cheap paneling . I think it would probably look good clear coated if the surface is prepped(Nail holes filled,etc).Duke67.
I have used the stuff in a similar situation that descibed. We did, however, paint. We used it for the boared and bead loolk over the top of exposed rafter tails. we only had 24" of exposure before the friez board so did not have to contend with long side joints. End butts we broke over a rafter tail. We also had to add another layer of 3/8 inch exterior plywood to the top inorder for it to match up to the 3/4" sheating boards. It all passed the hysterical society review for meeting thier authenticity requirements. Couldn't hurt to buy a piece, finish it and lay it up there, just to see if it might pass muster.
Dave
How did it stand up under the eave?
I recently resided my house with cypress, and rather than completely tear off the soffits, we painted them chocolate brown. I also painted my foundation and garage doors brown.
The last step will be two sections of cantilever where I need to redo the underside of the cantilever. The original plan was to use beaded cypress 1x6, but we ended up not being able to get the first course of siding low enough to cover the 1x. So I have been thinking about using Plybead painted to match the roof soffits.
Since Plybead is interior material, I worried that even out of the direct weather, and with primer on all sides, it might suffer from delamination over time.
So... How did yours stand up to the weather?-
-
"Arguing with anonymous strangers on the Internet is a sucker's game because they almost always turn out to be -- or to be indistinguishable from -- self righteous sixteen-year-olds posessing infinite amounts of free time." - Neil Stephenson, Cryptonomicon
Where we used it was on top ofthe exposed rafter tails. 5/12 pitch roof with a gutter board and fieze board at the brick on the house. Other than variations in temp. and humidity, it never got any direct weather. Primed both front,back and edges as they were cut. Saw the house about five years after we did the additions and did not see any delamination. It had been repainted, however. This was in a historical preservation district so the people that buy and live there know they have to maintain thier property, or the hysterical society will come knocking. Don't know how it would hold up as a flat soffit panel.
Dave
Out of curiosity, if your sheathing was only 3/4" thick at the exposed rafter tails, did you use 3/4" roofing nails? I am dealing with this exact situation in detailing my own house and would appreciate any advise. Thanks.
Craig Zimmerman
We used a 3/8" board and bead paneling and, I think, a 3/8" or could have been 1/2' exterior sheathing over it. With a layer of felt and shingles the, 7/8" galv. roof nails that the roofer used were no problem. That was back in 82, so hammers and nails were still used a lot more than air nialers or staples on roofs around here.
Dave
Thanks for the replies everyone. It's great to know that others have used Ply-Bead and had good luck. I think it might have a place in our house, put painted. Our upstairs loft bedrooms have a lot of wall space and there is a large beam that makes up the ridge beam. I think I could create a fake timberframe look up there with plybead and other lumber using the fake "timbers" to hide the seams.
Anyway, we decided to install the 1x6 t&G that we had in part of the loft. It went in a lot easier than we thought and frankly, it looks absolutely gorgeous. I think that was the way to go over the log joists.
Thanks everyone for your replies. You've helped me think in new ways!
Paula
I can't speak for Dave, but in the past we have used 1x6 t&g as well as 3/8 ply bead with another layer of 3/8 ply over it for exposed soffitt. You have to stay on top of the roofers to make sure they only use 3/4" nails for the eave drip and shingles for the lower courses. Just make sure they switch back to longer nails before they start running ridge cap. <G>
As to the original question. I use Birch plybead for cabinet door panels. It is available in several face and back grades and looks a whole lot better than the pine plybead that is sold a Home Depot. You might check with a lumber supplier that sells to cabinet shops on availability. I think I can get it in 1/4", 3/8", and 3/4". TCW Specialists in Custom Remodeling.
Paula,
I recently suggested using the GP ply-bead in another thread. I used it in a basement family room as inexpensive wainscotte on the walls. I had planned on painting it as I`ve done in the past with good results. After I installed, the homeowner decided to have me stain it. I was actually impressed with the finished product. I probably wouldn`t use it this way in my own home, but the HOs were extremely happy with it in the family room. As long as you`re willing to accept the possibilty of a painted finish, you might want to try it with the clear coat first....if not happy, paint over. Just my two cents.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
One slightly different idea: I saw a model house with a room panelled floor to clg with T-111. I think maybe it had a clear coat. It was kind of a neat look. I did my foyer that way and have yet to finish it. The fuzz is quickly knocked off with a light sanding.
The "grooves" between the "boards" are a little rustic but I've found the stuff is really tough and looks great in a house with three kids.
HD has some of their in-store millwork covered in a similar way which they've painted orange. It looks like crap. I might stain mine with a semi-transparent finish and then wax or poly.
I've also used the GP bead ply in a kitchen and finished with an alkyd paint. Can't see the joints or nails and in a smaller room it looks pretty good despite the lack of depth to the reveal.
Good Luck.
I used it on my vaulted kitchen ceiling and everyone has said how great it looks. I routered 1x2 cabinet grade wood to cover the joints, however you can see some of the nail holes, after a little water putty and some stain to match they are almost unnoticeable.
Good Luck,
Captainjp
Wife and I put up many panels of plybead in an old store building where the owner wanted a rustic look. I was not very happy with the result. Did ceilings and 12 ft walls. Used 1x4 to cover the wall 8" joint. Used lattice to cover joints on ceiling. Ceiling joists and studs were on 24" centers and got real wavy. Not too sure that it would have been much better 16"oc. The half lap joints were very poor, as the wavy tendency pulled it open a little. Their half laps seemed inconsistent. I used a router and did my own to keep from wasting material and they were a much better fit.
I sprayed latex and got a bunch of grain raising. I would not use it under these circumstances again. Dw and I used about one mile of Eastern white pine 1x6 bead board in our own ceiling and get more compliments than I can count. We (she) stained before install using Cabot whitewash (the stain base actually) and did not wipe it off. It gave an almost marble look with the knots showing through in a beautiful grayish tone. It should never need anything. Our porch ceilings were stained Navajo White by Cabot.
I would do it again in a heartbeat.
Cathedral Ceiling
So what do you think of using Ply-bead on a cathedral ceiling between wood beams?
I have wood beams on my ceiling approx. 4' apart from each other..............
plybead ceiling in kitchen
I live in the Caribbean and many of us use plybead and T111 for ceilings. I am planning to use plybead for my bedroom ceilings. I have already used it in my kitchen as you can see in the photo. It is better to use twisted nails for a better look, just use some spakle or filler for the nail heads sand and paint. I used moldings to hide the joints.