Curious what everyone’s drywall sub charges. Hanging price and/or hanging/mudding price.
jt8
“The test is to recognize the mistake, admit it and correct it. To have tried to do something and failed is vastly better than to have tried to do nothing and succeeded.”
— Dr. Dale Turner
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Replies
$1.50 per square foot...supplied, installed and taped (1/2" DW). Assuming flat, eight foot ceilings.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
$1.50 per square foot...supplied, installed and taped (1/2" DW). Assuming flat, eight foot ceilings.
This drywall pricing question always beleguers me. I always hear "by the board" or by the "sq ft." So you're saying $1.50 sq/ft. In a 4x12 sheet there are 48 sq/ft, right? That brings the cost of that board to $72. Take away $14 dollars for the board itself, plus a few dollars because you need to pick it up (say $10) that removes $24 from the cost of the board giving you $48 profit. So if I'm hanging/finishing say 15 boards that brings my profit to $720. Take $25 out for some insurance overhead, $25 for two buckets of mud, $4 for tape, $14 for screws and about $15 for glue that brings my profit down to arouind $637. Add 4 trips to hang/finish....assuming the job is 25 miles away I"ll eat about $40 in fuel....my profit overall is about $600. That seems CHEAP. I would price a job like that, all flats, 8' ceilings, up to 4 corners at at LEAST $775. But I'm a one man show, too.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
Will....he asked what does my drywaller charge.
I aint doin it for $1.50 sq./ft.
But if all you (you meaning a drywall contractor) do is drywall, those 15 boards aren't going to take a half day to install before the crew is off to the next job. (or next room.)
I'm a carpenter by trade. With a lift I'd likely get those 15 sheets hung and first coated in a day. As part of a larger job, I'd probably be charging close to a "G".
I'm surprised to see several responses include cleanup as part of that $1.50 per.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Ah, gotcha, I see what you're saying. So my $775 isn't that far out of the ballpark seeing as if it were you you'd charge even more than I.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
If I went to some house and spent the better part of a day hanging 80# boards, and then came back the next 4 days for 2 hrs per day I wouldn't feel like I made any "profit" at all.
What I'm getting at is I'm not comfortable with the way you use the word profit... but I think I knew what you meant.
Buck and 50 to 2 dollars supplied, hung and taped. Pretty much a minimum charge for the small jobs, a couple rooms or so brings it down to the lower price. Board has gone up. What you can't price is the show up time, quality of finish. I could pay the same or more and get ####. I am very satisfied with Dave, the doctor of drywall!
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Forgive my ignorance of teh lingo.
$1.50 supplied (?) hang and taped? Meaning the sub supplies the board? OR you supply it?
1.50-2.00 sq ft: Dave supplies the board, screws, hanging, all the compound and beads and the finishing. Usually to a skimmed finish, level 5 I guess it's called. Beautiful work, on time, no layoffs. Usually vac sanded, floors scraped. I take care of the scrap. Sprayed knockdown on ceilings if requested, popcorn if matching. Small room higher money, couple rooms-lower rate. And dave makes out good, the hangers are white anglo saxon americans..........with all their teeth and kings english. A great operation.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin, Thanks for your cheery and detailed reply!
Yup, that's me, cheery and detailed
Your welcome.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
It is priced by 'the board' here. When I say the board I mean a 4'x12' sheet. Builder supplies the board in the house. Drywall guy supples everything else. $18.00 - $18.50 a board, hung, taped, mudded, sanded, trash removed and point-up.
The only extra would be when the electrician says, gee - I forgot to put a jumper wire to this switch, so I have to cut a hole in your wall :-(
So I guess that would mean my total price is about $.66 a sq foot for everything, although if I ask for a turn key price, if I remember correctly it is about $1/ft.
Edited 1/6/2006 8:04 pm ET by Matt
Matt, that is cheap! I need to get the h3ll out of Georgia. A 4x14 board hung and taped is $50. This was 3-4 years ago and the cheapest bid (by a Latino sub).
BTW, it should be mentioned that there can be variances. What is you have 8'9" ceilings? What if you have vaulted elevations? What if there are a lot of soffits?
>> BTW, it should be mentioned that there can be variances. What is you have 8'9" ceilings? What if you have vaulted elevations? What if there are a lot of soffits? <<
The $18 - 18.50 a board is the price. (Board not included) They just did a house for me that had 10' ceilings on the first floor and 9' ceilings on the second floor - No extra charge. On some cheap houses I built I had them wrap all the window returns with drywall - No extra charge, and some houses had cathedral ceilings that only went up to about 12' - no extra charge.
OTHO, If I came up with a house with a 23' tall vaulted ceiling - like in that other thread, they might have something to $say$ about it.
I think it was in another thread I think you said you moved to Atlanta with the perception that it was cheaper to live in the South. I think it is cheaper to live in the south - as long as you are not in a large metropolitan area. Sorry, but IMO Atlanta wasn't the right place to find that... 14 years ago, we looked at moving there from Wash DC, and it was cheaper, but not a lot. I live in Raleigh NC, and I think it is about average here. Cheap new housing goes for around $85 a sq foot, although of course you can find houses for $200 a sq foot too... The bad news is that real estate doesn't appreciate real quickly here - which I guess kinda makes sense.
I don't live in Atlanta, and my work peers always accuse me of living in South Carolina because of how far I live outside of Atlanta. Still, I get your point, but Atlanta wasn't my decision. Yet, it still is contrary to any notion. I mean, its not like I live in Buckhead section of Atlanta, or on South Beach in Miami.
Now I know why there has been such a huge Latino influx in the past decade. They can make a hell of a lot more money in Atlanta than in NC based on what is being reported in this thread.
Then again, I watched some of last year's TOH projects paying 2/3 for a concrete pump truck than what I've been quoted around me. And that better price was in a Boston suburb and not the outskirts of Atlanta. LOL
I looked at roughly where you live via your profile. When I was looking I wanted the lake Lanier (sp?) area. Wife didn't want to go, which ended that in a hurry.
As far as TOH, to me, that's not reality. More often than not, the budgets are so far asque it's ridiculous: Norm: "OK, we are now gonna install some granite steps on this lawn mower shed that is way out back, but we still want to preserve the rustic charm... Now let me pop into my shop in which I just happen to have a wet saw capable of cutting 6" thick granite. Good thing I just happen to have a all terrane forklift to move the material around..." - I made that up, but you get the pic. Also, you may have been watching something that was 10 years old. Building is my passion, but to me, HGTV type stuff in general has nothing to do with reality except for my DW, who is either watching "Divine Design" or Emerald as we 'speak'... Although I do like the idea of women in tool belts - then I could lay around the couch and give out the orders :-) (This is a joke!!!!)
One saving grace is that about 5 years ago I tore up my right hand on a router table - no that's not the good part.... Anyway, DW probably thought I was a real DA. A few months later we saw Norm doing exactly what I was doing when I got hurt - of course he came out un-scathed. Some months later, poor Norm was doing his his thing right there on TV with a big old un-explained bandage on one of his hands! I think DW understood a little more about occupational hazards... :-)
Last job, 8 foot ceilings and easy access, $1.75 per SF supplied, hung, scrapped out, floors papered, everything taped and coated to level 4, sanded, primed, and a light orange peel texture sprayed.
Small patches requiring less than 1 hour per trip, I expect to pay about $75 per trip, maybe a little less if it's close to town or otherwise easy to get to.
One of my rockers recently came up with a place that he takes scrap board to for recycling. The other mutters about how it costs more to throw away scrap than it does to buy the board in the first place.
What do you all mean when you talk about 'Level x' finishes?
I have read this a lot when drywall is being discussed, I assume a level 5 is better than a level 1....where does this come from, and how are the levels defined?
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
From http://www.drywallconstruction.com/levels_of_finish.htm
LEVEL 0: No taping, finishing or accessories required. This level of finish may be useful in temporary construction or whenever the final decoration has not been determined.
LEVEL 1: All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound. Surface shall be free of excess joint compound. Tool marks and ridges are acceptable. This level of finish often referred to as "fire taping", is frequently specified in plenum areas above ceilings, in attics, in areas where the assembly would generally be concealed, or in building service corridors and other areas not normally open to public view. Accessories (cornerbead, base shoe other trims) optional at specifier discretion in corridors and other areas with pedestrian traffic.
LEVEL 2: All joints and interior angles shall have tape embedded in joint compound and one separate coat of joint compound applied over all joints, angles, fastener heads and accessories. Surface shall be free of excess joint compound, tool marks and ridges are acceptable. This level of finish is specified where water resistant drywall is used as a substrate for tile; may be specified in garages, warehouse storage or other similar areas where surface appearance is not of primary concern.
LEVEL 3: All joints and interior angles shall be tape embedded in joint compound and two coats of joint compound applied over all joints, angles, fastener heads and accessories. All joint compound shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. Note: It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a primer/sealer prior to the application of final finishes. This level of finish is typically specified in appearance areas which are to receive heavy or medium texture (spray or hand applied) finishes before final painting, or where heavy-grade wall coverings are to be applied as the final decoration.
LEVEL 4: All joints and interior angles shall be tape embedded in joint compound and three coats of joint compound applied over all joints, angles, fastener heads and accessories. All joint compound shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. Note: It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a primer/sealer prior to the application of final finishes. This level of finish is typically specified where light textures or wall coverings are to be applied, or economy is of concern.
LEVEL 5: All joints and interior angles shall be tape embedded in joint compound and three separate coats of joint compound applied over all joints, angles, fastener heads and accessories. A thin skim coat of joint compound, or a material manufactured especially for this purpose, shall be applied to the surface. The surface shall be smooth and free of tool marks and ridges. Note: It is recommended that the prepared surface be coated with a primer/sealer prior to the application of final finishes. This level of finish is recommended where gloss, semi gloss, enamel or nontextured flat paints are specified or where severe side lighting conditions occur. This highest quality finish is the most effective method to provide a uniform surface and minimize the possibility of joint photographing and of fasteners showing through the final decoration. (note: Application of primer/paint products over Level 4 and Level 5 smooth finish: Industry experience demonstrates an effective method for achieving a visually uniform surface for both the primer and topcoat is spray application immediately followed by back rolling or roller application using good roller techniques such as finishing in one direction and using roller types and naps recommended by the paint manufacturer.
Thanks. I knew all of these as:
1. Untaped
2. Fire tape
3. Two coat
4. Three coat
5. Skim coat
Never had heard of the levels before BT.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
WOW, I am amazed some rockers spent the time to come up with this structure. Sounds like an easy way for an inexperienced GCer or lazy/MIA builder superattendent to get what would appear to be short-sheeted. I would have to say that my inexperienced, first-time homebuyer eyes got the best of me with what would be classified as a Level 1 job.
BTW, is there a Level 00 where it includes urine in the floor registers? Laugh all you want, but one of my neighbors had this happen. The HVAC crew had to come out and rip a lot of flex conduit out. The joker (ahem, illegal) was caught after months of shameless bladderations on several developments. I guess he felt the Level 1 job he was delivered was too much for what he was being paid.
So, to get a perfect drywall job there is only Level 5. Otherwise, you are not planning on living in the place yourself. I now get what a friend of mine concluded when he said the drywall in my home was sh!t. But then again, he's a rocker.
Nuke,I would be very surprised if you had a level 1 job. As they say that's called "fire taping" and is very rough. You don't even cover the fasteners with joint compound or install corner bead.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Ok, you've called me on it. Let me buy a new tripod (lost the wife's original) and I'll break out her Nikon D70 digital SLR and take some pictures. The level of work done can be classified as anything you would like, but its a terrible job, IMO, but then again its a P.O.S. piece of southern construction.
$21/sheet hung, taped and sanded (4x12)
edit - I supply the boards, the sub supplies everything else
Edited 1/6/2006 7:45 pm ET by Brian
$18-$20 for a 4x12 sheet. I am supplying everything.
$18-$20 for a 4x12 sheet. I am supplying everything.
When will you be in the Atlanta area? At $20 per 4x12 board and you supplying everything I need you to do my basement for me! How's next week?
Were at $1.05 per sq.ft right now, was under buck a ft. last year. That for production work. Turn-key with knock down texture & round corner bead, firetape garages.
here on MD Eastern Shore I'm paying $35 for 12' board. It goes up if there are high ceilings, cathedral ceilings, etc. If it a small job the price goes up. I paid about $65 a board for a 25 sheet addition [one room]. I sanded and scrapped out
On the other side of the bay in MD. 52 bucks a sheet, 30 sheet min. I do nothing except write a check.
I do nothing except write a check.
That's a good job as long as it ain't your $$ ;)
jt8
"The test is to recognize the mistake, admit it and correct it. To have tried to do something and failed is vastly better than to have tried to do nothing and succeeded."-- Dr. Dale Turner
Below the CBBT we are around 37.00 turnkey for 12' boards. 50.00 on additions
Depends. They had themselves a little price the other guy out of business war a couple years back that they all never really got out of. So most of them now are (as of last week) 77-80 cents a foot, supplied, hung, finished level4. Which baffles the heck out of me because I can't see where anyone makes a dollar on it at all. Board itself just jumped to 29 cents a foot. There's a handful of guys that keep busy just out of sheer decency. They have their teeth, don't smoke in the homeowners house, know the difference between a broom and an elbow, they're more like $1.25 a foot. Which is still darn cheap.
"A bore is a man who, when you ask him how he is, tells you." -Bert Taylor
90 cents a square foot, hung, finished, primed with USG First Coat, ceilings and closets additionally painted with one coat of finish paint. I supply all materials except for nails and screws. I gotta handle disposal, but they clean up and load the dumpster.
$40 for a 4x12 sheet, materials supplied, hung, finished. Non-standard is extra (9' ceilings, vaults, etc.)
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
well, I'm in N.Y. and I just quoted $50.00 per 4X8 - includes rip down, 3-4 coats mud, making it ready for paint. does not include delivery and removal to a dump. throw in a couple hundred for that. I've gotten it the past and I plan to raise my prices this spring.
That $50 for a 4x8 sheet is what I just quoted this week for a drywall job. This is me supplying everything and broom clean when we finish.
Now I have another question, we do a lot of work on apartments here in the city and its simply not in the budget to gut them all the way down and redo them. So a lot of times people want us to use 3/8 or 1/4 inch over the existing plaster and lathe. They want to leave the mouldings, base and ocassionally crown, in place and work around it. Since we generally use the bag durabond mud and mix it ourselves it is a little easier to mud right up to the trim with multiple coats in a day.
My question is this, would you charge the same or more? There is a lot more time involved in mudding in these cases.
No, I'm not particularly happy with doing these jobs, but my guys make it look as good as possible and I make sure that it is a good quality finish. Gotta pay the bills!
It varies around here between about 1.25 to 1.50 from the larger outfits.
We recently tried a smaller guy, he quoted the job at a $1 a foot, moved up to 1.05 a foot when I told him it was to be bullnose bead. That's pretty cheap and he does good work.
Those prices include hanging and finish, but not scrap out or clean up. Small jobs can get up to about $2 per foot.
On the other hand I had a patch done yesterday for 200 bucks and it took him an hour and half, between mudding and blending in the texture, couldn't even tell where it was when he was done... He thought that was expensive, I thought it was cheap considering....