What is best concrete sealer for garage?
levelone
| Posted in General Discussion on
Help! I am in immediate need of information on concrete stain/sealer/epoxy for a garage in a new home I am purchasing. I say immediate because I am trying to do this in the next couple of days so I can move in next weekend.
I am looking for a solid color (white or gray) that will hold up to tires and especially something that is easily repaired when I drop things on it that might chip the concrete.
I am thinking of stain with a clear sealer as epoxy seems more difficult to apply and more difficult to repair. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Replies
I once epoxied a floor for a customer that bought some stuff from the depot. 2 part and mix had some flake that you sprinkle on while still wet. Seems to hold up good for him. Brushed the edges and rolled the rest
sherwin wiliams sucks
I'll second one of the epoxy coatings. If you don't like it, simply sand lightly and cover it with another epoxy color.
Let's go over this more.
I've got an epoxied garage floor that I don't care for. I've been told by pros (and manufacturers that I can NOT epoxy over a previous coat. I'm told that I need to shotblast it off and redo it.
Have you actually done or seen your proposed method done? How long ago? With what materials?
I've got an epoxied garage floor that I don't care for. I've been told by pros (and manufacturers that I can NOT epoxy over a previous coat. I'm told that I need to shotblast it off and redo it.
Well, yes and no. One manufacturer may use a product formulation that interfears with another. What is certain is that it's much easier to warantee an installation if installed directly to clean concrete since it's a known quantity.
Check out the system three epoxy info available online for more than you ever wanted to know about two-part resins. Apparently they now require a simple registration to get to the info: http://www.systemthree.com/m_register.asp
A true epoxy shouldn't be applied over a two-part polyester resin when repairing boats, hot tubs or whathave you.
Also, products can develop surface conditions upon curing that interfear with additional coats. Typically sanding off the surface removes any waxes or other such things that are part of the original process.
However, one epoxy will form a super strong bond with another compatible epoxy, in the same way the high-tech planes are built with epoxy impregnated fiberglass, grafite and kevlar. If epoxy wouldn't stick to itself those planes wouldn't be possible.
I do know people who have applied the same floor product, but in a different color, with no problems to speak of after years of use. Surface prep and product compatibility seem to be key.
I seem to remember one company that actually encourages the application of multiple layers, allowing for some pretty special effects. For instance a base color is put down, then additional colors and various floating oddities are added to the top coat to match a very specific pattern, but they can't be added all at once to a single layer of epoxy.
Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to sand an area and test a patch of new color. If it were for a client I'd have to follow the letter of the manufacturer's instructions and suggest that you have the floor stripped if that's what was specified for the product.
Best of luck
The Rustoleum kit from HD or the auto parts store works well but you do have to leave cars off of it for about a week while it cures. Directions say so too so be prepared to leave cars off of it.
I did my own garage about three years ago and its held up great!
And I'm told that it is critical that a clear sealer coat be applied to prevent the heat pulloff where warm tires sit.
Does yours have such a sealer?
Mine has no such sealer and no areas have been pulled up from hot tires. And its been down about two years. I credit that to alot of prep work (I pressure washed it twice before applying the finish) and not driving on it for 8 days after the coating.
This may come across as low-tech, but I've had really good results and durability with Benjaman-Moore Concrete and Waterproofing sealer.
I've coated exposed aggregate driveways, sidewalks and garage floors and I've used it in custom built high-end showers when the surface is natural slate or stone.
It's a good quality acrylic, dries in about an hour, and just last week, I powerwashed a natural river stone shower I'd built 10 years ago which I'd coated with the stuff. I recoated after the cleaning and it looks like new.
The only issue in a garage floor is that it might be kind of slick, but it would with most any coating unless you have a traction finish.
The Ben Moore sealer also comes in colors, though I've only used the clear low luster.
Well gee levelone, nobody said welcome yet seeing as how this is your first post, so
Welcome.
That said, my philosophy is to go with best value and suitable finish, and even lower tech than Frank (NotchMan) . What my needs are on a garage floor are to not soak up oil, be easily repairable as I do lots of garage work under cars, looks are secondary, functionality and frugality first.
So, my method is simply to apply a cheap latex paint. Oil spill get soaked up easily by newspaper, the latex is good enough to allow sweeping up dirt a lot easier than sweeping raw concrete, and it costs next to nothing to apply or re-apply (often garage sales have free paint). My basement floor has latex paint and it still has not worn off 33 years later, but it only gets sawdust and foot traffic, no oil or cars.
Think about it - if you have a pristine yuppie life style, put down tile or vinyl flooring even; if a practical style, simple paint.
Have you looked at low-VOC acrylics?
I used H & C acrylic garage floor paint from Sherwin Williams. I think Lowes also has it. Total cost $50 or $60. I did use the acid to etch and followed all instructions.
It held up very well for about 6 or 7 years. One spot where my son leaked gas and didn't clean it up, and that did bubble the finish, but that was it.
I sanded it and put another coat of the same on last year. I did leave the cars out for 3 or 4 days, and have had no tire marks.
I love being able to sweep the garage out so easily. Bought a large squeegee at HD and can occasionally hose it out.
Pete
Level,
If you plan on staying in the house for a while, and want it to continue looking good ... use this: http://www.ucoatit.com/
It is on the expensive side, but will hold up to almost anything if the floor is prepped properly.
Might also go and read some of the posts in the flooring forum here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/
Hope this helps,
Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
Thank you all for your replies. I think I will go with a two-part epoxy. sLowes has both Quikcrete and Rustoleum for a reasonable price, so I'll probably use one of those.
Thanks again!
There are chances of damaging the concrete flooring of the garage while you are working in the garage. It is vital to protect the bare concrete for increasing its longevity and to also give a clean, subtle look to your garage. The most effective way of doing so is by using a concrete sealer, and I know the best place to buy that.
here find out best information as per my research: http://www.garagedoorinsulationhq.com/best-concrete-sealer-for-garage/