Replies

1. 
   DanH | Mar 01, 2011 10:10pm | #1

   How is the drywall to be attached?

2. 
   calvin | Mar 02, 2011 07:09am | #2

   http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12/5/pg_ca_foam/overview/Loctite-Power-Grab-Foamboard-Construction-Adhesive.htm

   I think the above is only available in small tubes.

   http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/12/29/pl_ca_300_voc/overview/Loctite-PL-300-VOC-Foamboard-Adhesive.htm

   Should be had in large tubes.

   There's plenty of others-read the labels-it either will melt the foam or adhere it.

   Never tried it but it's been said you can use can spray foam to "fasten" foambd. to block/concrete/anything.  It's sticky enough, but high expansion foams would move the board as it sets.

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Mar 02, 2011 12:05pm | #3

   I've use the gun foam adhesive - really sticky!  Once it's out of the gun it doesn't blow up too much more.  You could use Tapcons to initially hold the foam to the wall, then back them out later.

1. 
   DanH | Mar 02, 2011 08:38pm | #4

   Once again, I'm wondering how the drywall's going to be secured.  If simply glued to the foam then a better-than-average adhesive is needed.

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Mar 04, 2011 12:00pm | #6

   I was thinking he was using foam as the continuos thermal break, but inside that he would frame a regular 2x4 stud wall, with wood or steel (prefferably steel).

3. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 03, 2011 05:39am | #5

   PL300 as calvin mentioned.

   If your concrete walls are smooth use the adhesive as you would putting up drywall or paneling. Several squigley lines and press the board in place. If the concrete walls are wavey or have lots of small warts use fairly large gobs of adhesive and press it in place. I prop a couple of 2x4 against the board to hold it in place untill the glue sets or I get either a stud wall  built in front of it (add more insulation in the stud cavities), or attach furring strips over the foam with tapcons.

   I like the stud wall in front because it  allows the use of standard electrical boxes and wire routing. With furring strips you have to use shallow boxes and rout the wiring in the foam to get it the require depth (1 1/4") away from the furring strip faces to pass inspection.

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 06, 2011 04:45pm | #7

   I prefer the foam gun glue. It kicks in 15-20 minutes vs overnight for the PL300. Cheaper too.

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 08, 2011 03:11pm | #8

   Glue

   Got a link?

   I haven't tried that yet, and have about 100 lf of 9' wall left to do'

   Cheaper is gooooood!

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 08, 2011 05:22pm | #9

   I used to use Enerfoam which was first eveloped as a glue rather tan as a insulator. But now my local lumber yards make it easier for me to get te Great stuff product line. They have their own gunb, and at last three kinds of foam. One is a low expansion that is fopr doors and windows. It cures soft and foamy like a sponge, so I would not use it. Then there is the regular which is an insuilator andcures hrd, but has a fair amt of expansion, so it would fight with yo on panbels.

   But just like Goldilocks found her perfect bed and piot of poridge, they make the wall panel and subfloor adhesive also, which is just right. you cando 12-254 panels with a can of it, depending on temperature and how much you apply.

   The guns made for the removeable cans like this have a flow control knob, and can be cleaned.

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Mar 09, 2011 06:08am | #10

   Good to know.

   Thanks

2. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Mar 09, 2011 01:12pm | #11

   One thing to know about foam - it has an expiration date like milk!  Check your cans when you buy them, you probably won't be able to return them.

3. 
   Piffin | Mar 09, 2011 06:06pm | #12

   I returned one last thiursday

4. 
   Clewless1 | Mar 11, 2011 08:49am | #13

   How you planning on doing the electrical required outlets and such?

5. 
   bob@stucoflex | Mar 16, 2011 07:05pm | #14

   Re: EPS Adhesives

   We manufacture the adhesive and would be happy to sell and ship you anything you need.  Check out our website, http://www.stucoflex.com  The adhesive for the foam to concrete would either be PRM or Stuc-O-Base.  Email me for more information.

1. 
   xxPaulCPxx | Mar 21, 2011 04:00pm | #16

   Hey Bob, remember that the

   Hey Bob... Thanks!  Your post looks very proffesional now.

1. 
   bob@stucoflex | Mar 21, 2011 12:55pm | #15

   Remember.....

   I do understand the purposes of the site and I apologize if you took me as drive by spam.  Im not trying to hide what I do or just generate leads but if that happens, great!  I work for a synthetic stucco/EIFS manufacturer though and the products he is looking for we make and ship all over the country.Actually we make the best products on the market for the EIFS/stucco industry due to the enhanced and advanced liquid polymer used in our products.  We do not experience hairline cracks in stucco, hence the name Stuc-O-Flex.  I added a signature line for you so you dont think Im spam and also attached a product data sheet for the adhesive he is looking for.  All you have to do is add water.  You can also check out our website, http://www.stucoflex.com

   Bob Moore

   bob@stucoflex.com

   Stuc-O-Flex Intl.

   800-305-1045