Replies

1. 
   Danusan11 | Jan 14, 2004 04:27am | #1

   Not a professional rocker but I always use 90 for tape coat and compound for proceeding coats. 

2. 
   MojoMan | Jan 14, 2004 05:59am | #2

   It sounds to me like you have things upside-down. I'd use the setting compound first for it's strength and speed, followed by joint compound that can be sanded to a nice, smooth finished surface.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

3. 
   CarpenterPJE | Jan 14, 2004 06:08am | #3

   Lafarge- Rapid coat for all of it.  Ready mixed in pails, very minimal shrinkage, sands easy, drys fast.

4. 
   Mooney | Jan 14, 2004 07:25am | #4

   Youve let the saddle fall under the pony . Slider around back on top and cinch it up.

   Hot mud first and finish coat of your choice . Do the build with hot mud .

   Tim Mooney

5. 
   RW | Jan 14, 2004 07:56am | #5

   I'm with Tim. Durabond, not the Easysand, for taping and beads. From there, it depends on the size of the job. If it's small and I want to be done now instead of standing around waiting, Easysand for the second coat. I like ProForm topping for the final. It sands super smooth. If it's really small like a patch, Durabond 20 for tape, drink a coffee, then Easy sand 5 a couple of times. Put a fan on it while you're at lunch. It'll be dried out enough to sand after an hour. I pretty much only use all purpose for thinning out and stomping ceilings.

   But if you're not used to Durabond, (my bud Jim missed this critical element when I converted him) it doesn't sand for squat. So get it level and don't leave anything thinking you'll sand it later. I was getting cussed out the day he learned that one.

   "The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb "      lyrics by Roger Waters

6. 
   WillieWonka | Jan 14, 2004 08:15am | #6

   A lot of good comments here from others. Not sure how my technique will square up with others but my jobs come out very well.

   LaFarge is excellent if you can get it where you are. Mostly I'm stuck with the green bucket Sheetrock mud. I always open the bucket, thin it down real good to where it is practically runny off the knife. Not watery, just very thin. I use that for the bed coat and hide coat. Then I use the blue bucket mud, thin it the same and get a nice smooth finish. Still have to sand (because I've yet to reach drywall mud Godhood yet) but not much and I never sand between coats. If you have slight ridges, all the better, they're your fill-in guide for the next coat.

   Also I do the bed coat and hide coat all at once. That is, I bed the tape, then immediately do a top coat to it, the hide coat. Day 2 if I'm lucky which is 50/50, my second coat can very be my final finish coat with sanding on day 3.

   For same day fix jobs, durabond is the absolutely way to go, followed by EasySand finish coat.

7. 
   Piffin | Jan 14, 2004 08:27am | #7

   Depends on the job.

   Small patch getitdonein one day things means I use all setting type easysand

   middle sizerd where I am on the job all the time doing other stuff, I will use the bucket of premix exclusively.

   But on full sized jobs, I use Durabond to set and cover, then easysand or premix to finish.

   I have a finisher who uses stting type exclusively.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   JIMFMC | Jan 14, 2004 08:58am | #8

   Thank you all for the great info.

   I am curious what is the strongest material, Durabond sounds great but my taper says joint compound is better for the first and second coats because it is stronger.  I'd love to use somthing else because that stuff takes forever to dry.

   Thanks again you guys are great!

1. 
   RW | Jan 14, 2004 08:45pm | #12

   durabond is stronger than all purpose. I'd say test it, but it'd take you a week to get a sample built up out of all purpose that didn't crack on its own accord. Proof is in getting it off things it's dried on. Regular mud I can scrape off a paddle mixer with a knife. Durabond, I chuck the mixer into a workmate and go at it with an angle grinder and a wire wheel."The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb "      lyrics by Roger Waters

2. 
   Piffin | Jan 25, 2004 04:08pm | #13

   I've been gone a week or so.

   Your taper is full of it.

   Durabond or almost any setting type mud is stronger and harder than premixed joint compound any day of the week and doesn't shrink up either.

   You can prove it to yourself..

   Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   Mooney | Jan 14, 2004 05:12pm | #10

   "I have a finisher that uses setting type exclusivley"

   I suppose he is a hand finisher ?

   I have often thought that  would be a way that a hand finisher could compete to a degree. Really with a mesh taper that puts on fiber tape and a quick breakdown pump , he could at least allieviate a step. We have to mix up premix any way adding water to it. That would be a good system for scaffolding because of the loss of mobility . Or tall stilts for that matter.

   Tim Mooney

1. 
   Piffin | Jan 25, 2004 04:10pm | #14

   Most of my work involves only a few rooms, barely enough for assembling or cleaning a bazooka.

   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Mooney | Jan 25, 2004 07:27pm | #15

   How was your trip?

   You missed my point . I figure you are in a rush to answer all that mail. :)

   Tim Mooney

   Edited 1/25/2004 11:30:11 AM ET by Tim Mooney

8. 
   BossHog | Jan 14, 2004 03:56pm | #9

   There's an excellent thread here about drywall mud:

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=26521.3

   Courtesy of the infamous Tim Mooney.

   People have got to know whether or not their president is a crook. [Richard Nixon]

9. 
   slykarma | Jan 14, 2004 05:29pm | #11

   Any carpenter will tell you the best method is to avoid that filthy stuff at all costs and sub out anything to do with drywall :->

   Lignum est bonum.