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I have an antique cape with a center chimney. A new roof was installed by
a roofing contractor this past summer. The roof now leaks around the flashing (one side of chimney). I have decided to re- flash it myself. What is the proper way to flash this type of roof?
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With great difficulty.
*Sorry Paul, for being rude, but I didn't a lot of time when I posted the previous message. Architects dig ditches slowly (everything has to be perfect) and I just got my concrete forms inspection this morning.Flashing around vertical projections (like chimneys) can be a problem with standing seam roofing. Luckily you probably have sheathing and roofing felt below the standing seam roofing, so that will make things easier.The tough part is the uphill side of the chimney. You have to deal with the ribs on the standing seam roofing so that they don't trap water and debris. On the uphill side of a chimney, the flashing should extend under the roofing and up the chimney, a foot or so. Counter-flashing should extend from the chimney and laps over the lower flashing, allowing for some movement and prevent water from running down the chimney behind the lower flashing.You want to try to get positive drainage on this side so that leaves, snow, and other debris (beer cans, model airplains, tennis balls...) don't accumulate. This involves building some kind of "cricket" or "saddle" behind the chimney to direct water either way. If this is a fancy roofing with galvalume and kynar coateings, you may even want to use stainless steel flashing in this area as it will last longer than the roofing, although it is much more expensive. All joints need to lap such that drainage occurs away from the joint, this can get complicated by the geometry at the corners. One cannot expect caulking to last long term, especially as steel (or worse, aluminum) tends to expand and contract with temperature, often breaking sealant loose or opening nail holes. This can be affected by your local range of temperatures, and the temperature at which the metal was attached. As a rule of thumb, it can be 1" in 100'. Metal building specialty companies fabricate special curbs that work with various standing seam roofing profiles and provide good drainage, although this would probably be overkill for a residential application, and would also be difficult to retrofit.There are three different Details that occur at a chimney in the middle of a roof plane. If the chimney occurs at a ridge, there are only two. How the corners are handled is also important. These details should be available from standing seam roofing manufacturers, or the SMACNA (Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning... Association, expensive, try library or sheet metal shop) manual if they don't have them.
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I have an antique cape with a center chimney. A new roof was installed by
a roofing contractor this past summer. The roof now leaks around the flashing (one side of chimney). I have decided to re- flash it myself. What is the proper way to flash this type of roof?