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What nails to use for siding

| Posted in General Discussion on September 1, 2000 08:58am

*
I am renailing all of the 1/2″ x 6″ redwood clapboard siding on my house. I would like to use a pneumatic nail gun to do this but any splitless nails (Maze STORMGUARD type) that I have found require a kind of gun (Hitachi NV65AH, Bostitch N63CP) that is not available at any of my local rental locations (Northwest Chicago Suburb). The only rental equipment appears to be either framing or roofing nailers. Does anyone know that if I was to use regular 6P or 8P ring shank, 0.113 galvanized nails if these would cause problems with splitting my siding or not?

Thanks for your help

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  1. Guest_ | Aug 24, 2000 11:39pm | #1

    *
    I don't know about nail guns, but I *do* know you don't want to be using galvanized nails on redwood. Or cedar. You want to use stainless steel, or you'll end up with black streaks as the nails bleed because of tannic acid in redwood and cedar. Back in 1997 or so, FHB did an article on clapboard siding (I think it was cedar in their profiled house), and they included a blurb about most preferred fasteners. Concensus was stainless was best, and you will find most people frequenting this forum will agree. But they are more expensive.

    I've applied redwood lap siding using hot dipped galvanized nails that were *supposed* not to cause stains. They did. I applied more redwood with stainless and have seen no streaks/stains in 3 years.

    I just built another house with cedar lap siding and spent lots of $ to ensure that stainless steel ring shank nails were used. I ordered them online from Swan Secure for considerbaly less money than the local hardware places want.
    http://www.swansecure.com
    They sell coils of stainless nails as well as individual nails. They have charts on the website that help you figure out how many nails you need. Finding a compatible nail gun is another matter...

    1. Guest_ | Aug 25, 2000 02:19am | #2

      *You can also check out McFeely's (I believe it's http://www.Mcfeelys.com, but hey, don't quote me on that). They also sell a variety of coil and collated stainless stell nails.

      1. Guest_ | Aug 25, 2000 04:40am | #3

        *Dennis, I have used Maze splitless galvanized siding nails for years in redwood, cedar and pine beveled siding and have never experienced a problem with bleeding. I have seen it on orther galvanized naiks but do not know why. Perhaps a different galvanization process. All my siding is finished with penetrating oil, maybe that makes a difference. My other comment is why use a gun over hand nailing? I find much more satisfaction in hand nailing, can adjust the pressure to assure proper placement so much better and can enjoy other sounds besides the compressor and the bang bang of the gun cycling. I also find the time difference to be negligable. Wood siding deserves a finess that can never be achieved with air tools. Spend the rental money and by a nice Hart 16oz. finish hammer instead and enjoy the craft. Walk good david

        1. Guest_ | Aug 27, 2000 06:10am | #4

          *Dennis I recently installed some mahogany siding and used aluminum nails. I had to predriil for the nails which was a pain but they don't stain and it really doesn't take as long as you might think .With a customer I can add in for the extra time involved but what can you do?

          1. Guest_ | Aug 28, 2000 04:36am | #5

            *Dennis use the Maze slim jim SS ring shank and hand nail them . the slim jim has a small head that hides well.

          2. Guest_ | Aug 29, 2000 03:22am | #6

            *I'll second what Don said.

          3. Guest_ | Aug 29, 2000 11:30pm | #7

            *Anything beside stainless and you'll be regretting it a few years.As for using a gun...I say "no."You're renting the gun. You're (I'm guessing) renting the compressor as well. You need to be particular about how deep you set the nail heads in the claps, and while many rental shops do a nice job of maintaining their equipment, some do not. You could end up with some heads proud, some flush, some too deep. All depends on the charge of the compressor, how often it cycles, how well you set up the compressor, regulator, and gun, etc.Hand nail it and enjoy the process.

          4. Guest_ | Aug 29, 2000 11:39pm | #8

            *Nail depth is most effected by underlying wood density such as knots or no knots...Knot a fan of air nailing siding,aj

  2. Raoul_Duke | Sep 01, 2000 08:58am | #9

    *
    I used I/I ring shank nails hand driven in redwood siding on my home six blocks from the ocean and after 10 years I have experienced no problems. It was worth the extra time and expense. They even look o. even with the heads exposed.

  3. Dennis_Ritchie | Sep 01, 2000 08:58am | #10

    *
    I am renailing all of the 1/2" x 6" redwood clapboard siding on my house. I would like to use a pneumatic nail gun to do this but any splitless nails (Maze STORMGUARD type) that I have found require a kind of gun (Hitachi NV65AH, Bostitch N63CP) that is not available at any of my local rental locations (Northwest Chicago Suburb). The only rental equipment appears to be either framing or roofing nailers. Does anyone know that if I was to use regular 6P or 8P ring shank, 0.113 galvanized nails if these would cause problems with splitting my siding or not?

    Thanks for your help

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