So I’m looking over the McFeelys Catalog and plan to get some screws as I’m planning to finish the basement. I plan to use 2×4 throughtout and possibly some 1x3s…..
Anyhow, what’s size screw should I be getting, granted the plate wills be anchored via my brothers PATS gun. Toe screwing 2×4’s ,etc should I be using 2 1/8′ or 2 1/2″.
1×3 furring strips on the ceiling, etc.
I plan to pick up some #8 3″ screws for hangers, etc and a stash of their trim screws also.
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Replies
Just curious as to why you are screwing and not nailing.
If you're toe screwing your studs to the plates I would use 3" screws. A better detail would be to use 20 ga. track for the top and bottom plates.
2-1/2" screws would be fine for the 1x3 furring strips.
"I plan to pick up some #8 3" screws for hangers"
Are you saying you will be using screws for installing joist hangers or am I misinterpreting? Hangers should be only be installed with approved nails or screws. Using #8 screws could be dangerous.
Jon Blakemore
RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Why screw around? Nail it and get the job done!
The 3" screws will be used for for the hangers I plan to use for the stair stringers.
Why nails over screws. I can't nail for the life of me.....impact driver and scews go by quickly enough for me <g>.
Edited 7/16/2005 12:58 pm ET by jsoto
Not meaning to sound condescending but if you want to do the DIY thing you need to develop some of the basic skills - nailing would be one of them. Really though, you can likely frame your basement without all the toenailing. Mark the desired locations of your walls on the floor and ceiling. Build your walls laying on the floor 3/4" short of the desired height. Stand the walls up and shoot the bottom PT plate to the floor. Then, up top, slide a 1/2" spacer block up into place at each attachment point and nail off the top plate. This last step might be a place to use your screws if you are so inclined. You way want to use some wooden shims (available at the big box to help wedge your walls tight at the top. Or, you may want to attach the top first. Either way, use a level to make sure you get your walls plumb. Using nails will save you hours and $s. If you could find someone to lend you a nail gun and come over and give some brief safety lessons, your framing time would be cut by 1/2 to 2/3 and your fasteners would cost about 1/2 the $.
Matt
I'll put in a good word for screws.
At age 62, swinging a hammer will have my hand dead numb from carpal tunnel syndrome in five minutes. I can drive square head screw with no prerdrilling faster with an impact driver than I can nail and expend a ton less effort. The only drawback is cost, and even that is minor.
However, I would never use screws on joist hangers, or any other Simpson product, for that matter.
Now if I had a framing nailer, I'd be all about nails.
Chris
Same here, plus I don't have enough muscle to sink a nail very well, meaning I pound and pound and pound and shake the rest of the structure apart. Plus, in remodeling it's very often the case that you're working in tight quarters, and it's possible to drive a screw (even using a regular full-sized power driver) in tighter quarters than you can swing a hammer.
In general, you want at least one inch, but no more than about 1-3/4 inches penetration into the member you're attaching to. A little longer for screws with a fairly long "snout", and for screws that are longer overall.
For toe-screwing usually 3 or 3.5 inches works out, depending on how big a "bite" you take.