Replies

1. 
   Mooney | Oct 04, 2002 01:41pm | #1

   Good post , I would also like to know .

   Tim Mooney

2. 
   calvin | Oct 04, 2002 01:43pm | #2

   shoe, the multitool does a good job.  Blade selection makes a difference.  The half moon blade included is thin, makes a fine cut, but in hardwood it heats up and tends to distort.  Ditch tipped me to an "E" blade, that is more of a straight scraper shape.  It is thicker guage.  He uses it to cut out HW.  Maybe 30 bucks for it.

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   bobl | Oct 04, 2002 09:46pm | #3

   there are two size E blades and two tempers.  Pick the right one or get the set and ...

   they take some practice for precisionbobl          Volo Non Voleo      Joe's cheat sheet

2. 
   FrankB89 | Oct 05, 2002 03:47am | #4

   I use the segmented blade (half round or whatever) to start a cut because it's easier to control. 

   The E-blade cuts faster and doesn't heat up so quickly, but can be controlled easier if the cutline is scored first. 

   For the segmented blades, I prefer the metal cutting.  It cuts wood just fine but lasts a long time.  (Even trimmed 1/4" off a steel door once....perfect cut).

   My question:  Why are the blades for these things so damned EXPENSIVE!!??

    

1. 
   goldhiller | Oct 05, 2002 05:45am | #5

   That's my complaint, too. The tool itself isn't cheap, but once you see all the things it can do for you and safely at that.....I have no complaint about it. But those blade prices are annoying to say the least. Why are they so expensive? I guess because no one else makes blades for them and that's what the market will bear. Burns me every time I have to buy one tho. As long as we keep buying them, I bet the price won't go down either.Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.

1. 
   awschmidt | Oct 05, 2002 03:02pm | #6

       I'll give my support of the multitool also.  The dang blades being so expensive wouldn't tick me off so if they were all hss.  The standard blades always seem to catch a trim nail and grind some teeth off.  I've modified a couple of rounded hss blades; however, the cutting edge is still curved.  btw, my power switch has "had a personality" since the tool was a day out of warrenty.  anybody else had this problem?

3. 
   alias | Oct 06, 2002 04:28pm | #7

   shoe i've used my bisquit joiner with the flat side up against the wall wth an appropriate setting depending on the thickness of the flooring with a test piece. than with a sharp chisel clean it up, the thickness of the bisquit joiner blade can take the repeat cutting of the hard wood as far as naills they very rarely get that close to the wall at least 2" from the wall. if you dont have a bisquit joiner think about the multimaster to purchase price of a bisquit joiner. thoe bisquit joiner is a handy tooliuse it for, cabinet work , trim, fascia, flooring. goodluck bear

4. 
   WOODEXPERT | Oct 06, 2002 04:54pm | #8

   crain makes a complete line of tools for flooring contractors.

   they have toe kick, jamb saws, and corner saws.

1. 
   Shoeman | Oct 07, 2002 03:41am | #9

   Thanks all for the input.  Think I will look into the crain tools further, I am not familiar with them at all.  I have used the Fien Multimaster and have been looking for justification to puchase one.  Maybe this is it.  Not specifically looking for just flooring either, just some easy, neat method of finishing cuts where the base of the circular saw prevents it from completing the cut.

   I have had some success finishing up with the rotozip, but it takes a pretty steady hand.  Wish I had the one with the light - sight is often the problem for me.

   Thanks again everyone,

   Shoe