I’m needing a floor drain in my basement workshop.
Totally for insurance purposes. I mean if anything springs a leak, the water will have a shorter and less damaging route to go.
This shop will be a multipurpose hobby shop being exposed to a variety of things. Possibly some sawdust, drillings, shavings, dropped screws and such. I’ve got a sink along the side that doesn’t really have any overflow.
But what type of floor drain would be most suitable, allowing me the opportunity to clean out unintended things, keeping out any smell, and strong enough to roll a table saw over?
I got the concrete floor broke open and the waste pipe exposed. His bottom is about 15″ below the floor grade. I’ll need to run a 3′ lead to the desired location.
Is this the type of job I need to involve the city inspector over?
Replies
" Is this the type of job I ned to involve the City Inspector?..."
Yes. Probably. Call the BI and discuss what you are doing...he'll let you know if he needs to get involved. Most cities do get involved when it comes to sanitary sewer systems.
What you will need is a regular floor drain complete with trap. And, possibly a cleanout location.
Personally, I don't think a floor drain is a good idea in an environment with heavy saw dust and/or metal shavings. If you have a utility sink, you need only tie a 1-1/2 inch line ( or a 2inch line) into your existing sewer drain. The sink should be equipped with a P trap like a normal sink situation, and there you have it.
Should you spill some paint or chemicals on your floor, throw down some saw dust to absorb the spill, then sweep up and discard. City will be quite pissed if they thought you intended to use floor drain to pour down old paint or other chemicals....this practice is taboo. If you want to clean tools or other items...get a regular parts cleaner...they cost around $70 at Tool Crib. Fill up the tank with mineral spirits. This set-up will last a long time before the fluid needs replaced.
If worried about a ruptured water tank ( BTW..most hot water tanks don't just rupture suddenly...most slowly start to leak on the bottom before finally letting go) put a safety catch basin underneath tank and simply tie this line into existing sewer drain...same thing for a clothes washer.
Just my 2 cents.
Good luck on your project.
Davo
If you still intend to install a floor drain...I'd go with PVC schedule 40...its stronger than ABS. Don't go with the light ( foam)core PVC...go with regular schedule 40 or stronger...though 40 is more than strong enough for your situation.
Basement floor drains are more than strong enough to handle any kind of traffic rolling or walking on top of it. Don't buy and/or install a shower floor drain.
Buy and install a regular basement floor drain...complete with drain cover (lid) and drain bowl. The bowl section ( also called a "bell") gets attached to a trap. The bell can be the type that has an integral cleanout built into it. Though these cleanout holes are very small...only good for a garden hose and a "blow-bacK" bag de-glogger device.
I would install a seperate cleanout that would accomodate an electric snake...in case such might ever be needed.
I would use all schedule 40 PVC materials. If tying into old terra cotta drain pipe, I would use a fernco type (neopren rubber with clamps) clamp rated for underground burial. I would also pack regular sand around the exposed drain pipes...remove any rocks or stones that might cause rubbing...before encasing pipes in new concrete.
Davo