What is the best type of open truss for basement have you encountered that will allow a large area for HVAC & Electrical and plumbing rough in. Are there brand names of theses trusses ? who do you contact?
Thanks
Learn about different approaches to making updates and repairs to older homes with historic charm.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
When you say "open truss" I assume you mean a wood webbed floor truss. There aren't really beand names for these. Just tell 'em you want wood webbed trusses, and make sure they don't think you're talking about I-joists.
I attached a pic of a pile of wood webbed floor trusses just to make sure this is what you're looking for.
I'd start by talking to a lumberyard about getting them. (Not one of the big boxes) Truss plants may or may not sell direct to consumers in your area. that varies from one company to the next. But a lumberyard can get you headed in the right direction and provide limited assistance.
If you want to run your HVAC lines in the trusses, I wouldn't suggest getting trusses that are less than 18" deep. Anything shallower and it's a struggle to get things in there.
You also need to have your truss guy meet with the HVAC guy if at all possible. The trunk line layout needs to be planned ahead of time.
I've been called out many times after floor trusses are set by HVAC guys wanting to cut out a bunch of the webs so they can run duct lines through. (you can't) I Can't emphasize this strongly enough. Plan ahead or you're asking for headaches.
I did a thread a while back about Floor Vibration that's I think is good reading.
Post again if you want more info.
Hey Boss, what is the function of the notching at the end of those trusses? Is this for exterior sheathing or some sort of rim piece?
The notch is there to allow for a "ribbon board".Check out the attached pic and I think you'll see what I mean.
If I play a stupid girl, and ask a stupid question, I've got to follow it through. What am I supposed to do, look intelligent? [Marilyn Monroe]
Yeah, that's what I was curious about. Cool.
Does that back bracing run continually across all trusses in your example? What is its purpose?BTw, I'm curious why you recommend against Big Box trusses.
Edited 8/10/2005 7:01 pm ET by pino
"Does that back bracing run continually across all trusses in your example? What is its purpose?"
Do you mean the thing that says "Strong (stiff) back bracing" ?
That's iinda like "X" bracing on floor joists. It ties them together to help prevent vibration.
"I'm curious why you recommend against Bob Box trusses."
I have no clue what you mean by "Bob Box trusses".
Prevent inbreeding: ban country music.
you said not the big box stores. He took it as not big box trusses. Guess you need to tell him not to go to Home Depot or the like.An inch to short. That's the story of my life !
bstcrpntr --- I hope to grow into this name.
Sorry about the typo. I was referring to your suggestion that one not buy trusses from the Big Box home improvement stores such as Home Depot. Just curious why that is.As for the "Strong (stiff) back bracing", is that just a continuous 2x member running perpendicular to the trusses? I'm asking because I will soon be installing floor trusses on a renovated section of my old home. Using 14" 2x4 trusses spanning 18'. I'm in the process of cutting out the old flooring and joists. I hadn't ever seen that kind of bracing used in any of the new homes I have been in, so I'm kinda of curious as to how and where its placed..My engineer spec'd the loads for the trusses and after shopping around I purchased from Menards, one of the local Big Box stores. Their price was more than a $1.00 a foot cheaper than my usual source, the local lumber yard.You got me wondering if perhaps I have made a mistake in my purchase.
I suggested not uying trusses from the big boxes because they typically don't provide any kind of technical assistance. It sounded like this guy could use some.The 2X6 strongbacks are recommended 8 to 10' on center. They recomment that you use at least 14' lumber, and lap splices over 2 joists.They're not absolutely required. That's probably why you haven't seen them. I sugget putting them in while you're framing. If they're in the way, they can always be cut out. But it's rather difficult to get them up in there after the house is done.
I wonder if Iraq will repay us for their freedom like Germany and France have.
Illustration for the weak reading-comprehension person? :)
Speaking of comprehension - I don't really comprehend what you're asking me...
Women with "pasts" interest men because men hope that history will repeat itself. [Mae West]
You just described something to another individual, involving 2x6's being lap-implemented during the framing stages. I was wondering if you could provide an illustration so one does not misinterpret your written description.
O.K. - How's this?
One worthwhile task carried to a successful conclusion is worth half-a-hundred half-finished tasks. [Malcolm Forbes]
Perfect!
thanks for the illustration Boss. That really makes things clears for me.
Thanks Boss. You are right about the lack of technical assistance, at least at Menards. Fortunately I had the aid of an engineer so choosing the right trusses was easy. Trying to get joist hangers that are designed for these trusses from Menards was a completely different story. They tried to sell me stuff they had in stock that was not sized for the trusses, suggesting I could rig my trusses to fit. I ended up having to seek out the correct hangers on my own and order them in from Simpson.
There are *some* floor trusses that are "brand names" - but the basic concept is a little different. I used Open Joist 2000 (or OJ2K) trusses from Universal Forest Products for my floor deck, and they are a bottom-chord-bearing truss, similar to a TJI-type I-joist in the installation. I used them specifically for the plumbing/heating/electrical flexibility they offer. The cost was about $500 more than TJI joists for the same square footage. The nice thing about them is that they are field trimmable, up to 5-1/2" on each end; they are only sold in even foot increments. It's still a really good idea to have them engineered properly, but they are simple to work with. Two of the guys that worked with me to frame the floor commented that they really liked how easily they handled and were installed.
Note: I'm just a very satisfied customer. These things are great. One of the few things so far in my house project that I'd DEFINITELY do again.