Replies

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Nov 19, 2003 06:04pm | #1

   I always use DAP painter's putty on nail holes.  Properly applied it makes the nail holes disappear, although if you use a very high gloss paint (like oil) every little imperfection will show.

   Re the caulk, prime the wood first.  This helps keep the woodwork from absorbing the moisture from the caulk and causing it to crack.  Still, some cracking in almost inevitable, but it can be minimized.  Use a good quality caulk - 35 or 50 year - silionconzed latex is a good balance between workability and longevity.   Buy a few tubes and try it first, some 50 year caulks are hard to work with especially when it is cold.

   Matt
2. 
   PhillGiles | Nov 19, 2003 07:43pm | #2

   Interior or exterior / small cracks, or big gaps (like windows to brick) Rupert ?

   As a starter, I've been using LePage Exterior Wood Filler for nail holes, but recently switched to Elmer's Wood Filler for interior. They come in colours so they don't telegraph through the paint (I usually use white and then prime). For small gaps (like baseboards to walls) I'm now using Alex Plus by DAP in the brilliant white colour - really like it. (Alex Plus is a latex/silicone formula, like Matt talked about). Big exterior gaps get Mono Ultra - don't remember what's in it, but it comes in colours, is paintable, and withstands significant movement.

   .

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

1. 
   royr | Nov 19, 2003 08:43pm | #3

   Interior............Small gaps and finish nail holes. Unprimed poplar. I'll probably put a coat of primer on, and then caulk where it is needed.

   Thanks

   Rupert

1. 
   PhillGiles | Nov 19, 2003 10:55pm | #4

   Then my choice would be wood filler (Elmer's or equivalent) for the nails, before priming, and Alex Plus for the gaps.

   NB, many painters I know just use the Alex for both..

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

3. 
   JeffBuck | Nov 20, 2003 06:04am | #5

   my painter swears by DAP window glazing...

   primes first ... then DAP's ... then paints.

   Jeff

   Buck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

        Artistry in Carpentry                

1. 
   JDRHI | Nov 20, 2003 07:08am | #6

   OK, this may be a real stupid question, but, what are putty and caulk?J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

   "DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"

1. 
   CAGIV | Nov 20, 2003 07:15am | #7

   smartazz..

   Zar makes a product, forget what it's called, comes in a tube like toothpaste, real good stuff for paint grade, I've used it quite a bit on pop and pine, sands smooth and dries quick.

1. 
   IMERC | Nov 20, 2003 08:19am | #8

   Zar wood patch.

   Comes in a varity of wood colors. Will do stain.

   Latex base. Good for interior and exterior use. 

   Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....

1. 
   CAGIV | Nov 20, 2003 08:27am | #10

   It is latex, thats the stuff but the stain thing is debatable.  It says it is, but it doens't take it to well. 

2. 
   PhillGiles | Nov 20, 2003 10:22am | #11

   Classic putty was made with ground up sea shells, a little ash, and some boiled linseed oil. In my youth, I can recall watching the men in my grand-father's yard making it up from scratch: I used to get sent to the open market to get shells from the fish mongers' barrows.

   My father used to buy whiting (calcium carbonate, probably mostly from sea shells) to mix with the linseed oil.

   I think caulk is anything that makes a water-tight seal along a crack. Key word there is "water-tight"..

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

4. 
   heck22 | Nov 20, 2003 08:26am | #9

   On nail holes I use Crawford's Water Putty (Also called Crawford's Painters' Putty). Apply after primer, let dry, buff with cloth, paint.

   Crawfords can be hard to find, check pro painters' supply stores.

   Luck, jw

   what the heck
   was I thinking?

5. 
   goldhiller | Nov 20, 2003 06:49pm | #12

   I'm a fan of polurethane caulks.........PL brand is a good one and readily available here. Great stuff that stays where you put it (tenacious grip), remains flexible and is paintable. Geocell is good, too. (Not every 50 year caulk is worth what's implied if it doesn't stay where you want it and falls on the ground in 2-3 years)

   For cold weather application, I have a plywood box with hinged lid, 1/2 insulation on inside walls. Place tubes inside with a hairdryer on a thermostat set to about 100 -110F. (Of course, don't point the dryer at the thermostat or dierctly at the tubes) At these temps, it flows like butter. Place one in the gun and immediately cover by pulling a pair of old socks over the tube. When/if a tube chills and gets hard to squeeze, swap out for a different tube.

   Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
6. 
   andybuildz | Nov 20, 2003 11:42pm | #13

   I'm not gonna say I ever used quick dry spackle...I'd never say that..the interior/exterior kind.....or, two part Minwax filler.

   also...add epoxy hardener to toothpaste for non shrinking caulk <kidding>

   Be zipped lips

                        andy

   My life is my practice!

   http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

   
   

   ---

   Edited 11/20/2003 3:44:17 PM ET by Andy Clifford(Andybuildz)

1. 
   adroit1 | Nov 21, 2003 05:34am | #15

   Found phenoseal through a builder buddy.  latex caulk that stays flexible and is paintable.  Also comes in clear.  Works like a glue, too.  He knows his stuff- turned me on to grk screws too (torx head).  Lots of applications in our 180 yr old house

1. 
   andybuildz | Nov 22, 2003 01:30am | #16

   s'matter ....you dont like my toothpaste with PL Premium mix??????

   Be me.........nahhhhhh

    aMy life is my practice!

   http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

7. 
   dIrishInMe | Nov 21, 2003 02:31am | #14

   There seems to be some agreement on the caulk, but I think it's interesting that every single person who responded liked a different putty.  And I thought Phil's story about the old days putty with linseed and ground shells was very interesting too.

   Matt