Replies

1. 
   calvin | Oct 23, 2011 06:03pm | #1

   fass

   Quit with the "it's hard" talk.

   It's right should be what you do.

   So, you say drop ceiling, what do you mean?  Dropped soffits w/cabinets under or a suspended ceiling with wires, grid and tile? or some other form of drop with plaster or drywall attached?

   thanks.

1. 
   DanH | Oct 23, 2011 06:34pm | #2

   He means a soffit above the cabinets -- basically the soffit was framed in before any drywall was installed, so the soffit area is open to the attic (and the stud cavities are open to the attic as well).

   I can attest that in a 4/12 attic with trusses this area is a female dog to seal.

1. 
   calvin | Oct 23, 2011 07:20pm | #4

   Depending on how it was framed.........

   a firestop probably needs to be considered if the poster is at all interested in doing the job properly.  As a homowner he could of course not worry about the potential for fire and the resultant chimney effect.  Just filling the void w/insuation would not qualify as a firestop.

   While on the one hand, the drywall/plaster on the living side will slow down the chimney effect (with the absense of can or other penetrations) and filling the void would help "slow down" burnthrough ...............

   theres the tendency that many more home fires originate in the kitchen.  (that statement I have absolutely no backup other than thinking I remember hearing it).

   Just something else one should consider b/4 jumping into a home project.

2. 
   DanH | Oct 23, 2011 06:39pm | #3

   The main reason for sealing the area is the open stud cavities.  Especially on inside walls (which thankfully are easier to reach), the stud cavity acts like a chimney and carries warm, moist air from the house up into the attic.  On outside walls you still get the effect, but insulation in the cavities slows the airflow to a degree.

   However, blown-in cellulose will tend to (imperfectly) seal the area.  (Fiberglass will do a significantly poorer job.)

3. 
   davidmeiland | Oct 23, 2011 09:31pm | #5

   If you got on your belly

   crawled over there, and looked down into that soffit, you would probably see that they nailed a 2x4 to the face of the wall studs, and framed the soffit from there. There is probably nothing to stop you from dropping a rock down into the wall. There may be insulation in the wall that's poking up, maybe even as high as the top plate of the wall.

   This is a huge issue in older balloon-framed houses where this basically forms a wide-open passageway from the crawl space or basement right into the attic. Air moves freely through the wall, from basement to attic, wasting energy 24/7/365. It is less of an issue with a non-balloon-framed house, but there is still air movement that starts with leakage into the outlets and plumbing holes in the kitchen, and moves up into the attic. The fix is to cut pieces of foam board that are sized for the stud bays (3.5 x 14.5 if 2x4 wall) and get them positioned at the top of each bay, behind the ledger that starts the sofft. That stops the air leak.

1. 
   fassbinder | Oct 23, 2011 10:54pm | #7

   david

   I'm not adverse against going out there to see what's in the "soffit well".

   I have to go out (near) there to install the attic baffles anyway.

   But if it's necessary to do the grunt work, I'd at least like to understand why. If it's a firestop issue that's fine. I get it.

   I don't know what a ballon framed house is but this was a stick built house, built in 1974. It is a walk out ranch, meaning the top floor is supported by an 8"  poured concrete basement undeneath, openings to the rear, which is the side these kitchen cabinets are located.....on the upper floor.

4. 
   fassbinder | Oct 23, 2011 09:54pm | #6

   The reason I asked is because I searched high and low on the internet for the reason WHY to seal them off (the boxed area above the kitchen cabinets) but only found information on HOW TO.

   They already have some insulation in them from the original construction.

5. 
   bob4blues | Oct 25, 2011 01:01pm | #8

   Good Reference information on air sealing and insulation

   Good information on air sealing and insulation can be found in Burce Harley's book, Insulate and Weatherize in Taunton's Build Like a Pro series.  This book addresses how to deal with soffits. Maybe your public library has it.  Basically, air sealing is done first, then insulating.  Otherwise, your insulation just acts as an air filter.  I learned a lot from this book before I sealed and insulated my attic.  We have A/C and our electic bill was down 25% this July from last year.  Good luck with your project.

1. 
   fassbinder | Oct 25, 2011 09:48pm | #9

   Found my library had a few on insulation. Not that one though.

   I requested the one's that seemed best per amazon reviews.

   Good idea.

   Thanks.