What would you put on an old porch floor
My 100 yr old renovation project house has a small front porch, about 7 x 8, which is exposed to the elements on two sides. It has a reasonable 2% pitch to the front steps (which have been demolished and await a replacement).
What I’m wondering is what y’all would recommend for a replacement floor? It had t&g fir (which had rotted and has been removed). I have a solid base to build on. I’d like something that:
1. looks good
2. fits the style of the home (basically a 2 story house w/gable roof)
3. won’t take more than 1 1/2″ total thickness, and preferably less (I have to jack up the front door into the header if it’s any thicker).
4. is water resistant; won’t mind getting wet (it will surely get wet frequently in the rainy winter).
Any suggestions? BTW, astro-turf is out (according to my designer-spouse). 🙂
Replies
"What would you put on an old porch floor?"
An old yellow dawg
Actually, T&G Fir sealed or painted would suit me for what you describe. One thing I've done a couple times now is to use Gorilla glue in the joints to prevent water penetration. Then sand and seal or paint. Let the paint cure and place the old yeller dawg comfortably....
I'm with Piffin,
You want to avoid multiple layers: great place to trap moisture and create rot.
Stick with the tried and true.
Last porch I did that size I primed and then painted the T&G edges as I nailied 'em in place. Its held up well over 5 years, so far. (Kind of like his Gorilla glue idea - but I think my approach has a little more expansion contraction flexibility.
I don't really think the glue effects the expansion deal that much. I don't glue to the framing, but to each other. Here's my reasonning - The groove into which the tongue fits is slightly oversized, that is, if you look at a cross section at the end where it is cut off, you'll see a little space there - about enough to slide a toothpick into. That's good milling design because you don't want the tongue contacting the bottom of the groove dado before the top surfaces meet. but that same space is where the water and bacteria collect and go to work digesting the wood so I figure that if the space is already filled with the polyurethene glue, having expanded to fit, then there is less room for water to sit and do it's damage.
Any woodworkers or building scientists care to comment?
Excellence is its own reward!
but that same space is where the water and bacteria collect and go to work digesting the wood so I figure that if the space is already filled with the polyurethene glue, having expanded to fit, then there is less room for water to sit and do it's damage.
Good point. I was thinking that if you glue the individual boards together, whatever expansion/contraction takes place will be cumulative across the entire, aggregate width, as opposed to being divided up for each edge joint. (Along the lines of why 10" floor boards will show larger cracks than 2 1/2" floor boards.)
Just thinking with my mouth open here, though, and I like your point about sealing that inner gap.
100 yr old porch deserves a 100 yr old design. T and G. Seal it up good and install right. It'll last. Gte the matching beaded ceiling board for the porch ceiling too! Jeff
.......Sometimes on the toll road of life.....a handful of change is good.......
I'm sold. T & G fir it is.
I think the ceiling may already be beadboard.
This house is in Aberdeen, WA and was built where they were cutting down the original old-growth lumber. The boards in the roof are about 1 x 20". The whole house is wood. The interior partition walls are 2 x 4 (real 2") nailed in sideways with 3/4" t/g on either side. Not much besides wood in the whole place, except for nails and door hardware.....
Sounds like a wood porch floor is in order for sure.
GeoffH,
I like Ultrawood, 5/4x4, SS nails, stained.
http://www.treatedwood.com/products/ultrawood/
And a rockin' chair next to the dog.
KK
Edited 8/6/2002 7:10:14 PM ET by kkearney
I'd definately go with T&G myself, but another option is 5/4 T&G mahogany. Here in the NYC area, it's actually cheaper than fir and supposedly is a little more stable and rot resistant. All the fir that I looked at was relatively new growth with knots, I was a little worried about how it would hold up long term. The mahogany was clear and I was able to order specific lengths. With the fir it was random lengths. And yes the mahogany was plantation grown. Just a thought
Truely, the fir today is not as good as even ten years ago.
Bob, pnce painted and sealed, not to much water anyway and I'm reading this a being covered by a roof that would shed most of the water.Excellence is its own reward!
GeoffH,
Try Tendura board. It's made to replicate 3 1/8" Doug Fir,but it's a composite like Trex decking. It's 3 1/8" x 7/8" with a very slight wood grained embossing on the surface. It comes pre-primed on top and needs no priming or sealing on the rest. It comes in 8-10-12-14-16 foot lengths. It ain't cheap but it has a lifetime warranty. Installation Tip: Pre drill tongue and install with corrosion resistant square drive trim screws about 2 1/4"- 2 1/2" long.
1-800-Tendura for a supplier in your area. No I'm not a salesman for Tendura. I'm a restoration contractor and just finished installing about 140 boards. Seems like good stuff.
Geoff
One word: Ipe.
Looks great.
No maintenance.
Lasts forever.
T&G 4/4.
Classy. Astro turf optional.