Replies

1. 
   Mongo | Jan 03, 2015 01:36pm | #1

   Chipping can be the blade, or it can be the saw. Or operator error. Or a combination of the three.

   If your blade is dull or packed, you can dress it by running it through a concrete paver brick a few times. It'll expose new diamond and a cleaner blade will give a cleaner cut with less thermal build-up.

   For hard porcelains, the TM-7 is my "go to" blade, but I use it on a 1-1/2HP Felker saw. With a lesser powered saw, some guys recommend using a softer blade. That's what I've been told. ie, a "premium blade" like the TM-7 might give worse cuts on a lower torque/HP saw. Not my experience. But several people have told me that.

   Make sure your fence or sliding table is running perfectly parallel to the blade. A slight misalignment can cause the edge of the blade to lift the glaze, or chip the cut edge, giving a rough cut.

   Water. Make sure your delivery system isn't partially clogged and that the pump is moving water to keep the blade awash.

   Some of the inexpensive table saw types of saws suffer from arbor run out, or the blade inherently wobbles as it spins. It's the nature of the saw.

   If your "blade above" saw is the type where the motor looks like an angle grinder, those are notorious for flexing during a difficult cut. Any flex can cause the blade to come out of alignment with the cut line, producing chipping on the cut edge.

   So...pick your poison. I'd start by dressing the blade and checking blade/fence alignment. Checking the water pump and hose for good flow. A basic saw tune-up.

   Then analyze how you make the cut. If you're forcing the cut, you can be pushing the moving table or the saw head out of alignment. If you have a sliding table, you could inadverdantly be torqueing the table creating a misalignment. Let the blade do the cutting, and advance the tile through the blade as material is removed. It will sound silly, but try to "guide" it through instead of "pushing" it through.

   If everything is pretty darn bueno and you're still getting bad results, then it might be a blade-saw-material mis-match.

1. 
   Fonzie777 | Jan 03, 2015 07:01pm | #2

   thanks for the thorough rundown from experience

   It would take a long time to come up with that list thanks for sharing it.  I traveled about 50 miles to look at a MK 10 inch today - but it wasn't near as heavy duty as the one at the rental.  I didn't get it.  

   The saw we're using is a cheap cheap little table saw like thing that flips the water up.  The thing is we haven't had problems show up until this particular tile.  The second box seemed more "chippy" than the first (or the blade was gettng dull or it turned into a hurry up thing).  

   I think we're going to have to start with some equipment upgrade.  I'm going to look up this brand you mentioned and look for a used commercial saw on Ebay.  

   Thanks for your time Mongo - I appreciate the valuable advice

2. 
   johnniemac | Jan 03, 2015 07:13pm | #3

   old tile guy chimes in

   I've owned a Felker Tile Director for years and it's one heavy, awkward sob to carry around and store but it performs well ... I mount it on an old Hitachi saw stand with some rubber straps and added the Felker tile kit for misc odd cuts ... I've used MK Diamond Hot Dog blades which I like, too, and change the wet saw water at least once during the work day to keep the pump from sludging up ... I bought his saw in the 90's so it may be discontinued now ... if I was to purchase one today, I might buy the Dewalt D24000 or the D24000S (the S includes the stand) ... the reviews for this saw on amzon point to this being the most innovative wet saws out there today, and it handles a 24" tile diagonally ... if price is an issue, try buying a used Felker or a Dewalt on an auction site but I'd shy away from getting sucked into any habor fright (pun) machine based on my own experiences with some of HF's their products ... price is right but the quality of their power tool lack, such as plastic gearing which heat up and melt, etc ....