Hi y’all, volunteering myself to build a wheelchair ramp for a friend that wiped out on a 4 wheeler and she may or may not walk again. Never done this before but that’s never stopped me before. Wonder if anyone has, and if what I propose sounds logical. 4×4 posts anchored to cement sidewalk with post bases @ 8′ o.c. and notched to accept 2×6 support beams. 4×4’s left long to be cut down to 32″ railing height. 2×4’s on joist hangers 16″s 0.c. spanning about 40″ between the 2×6 support beams. 3/4″ pressure treated ply 4×8’s for ramp. Not sure what to use to give grit or grip on ramp for traction, any ideas, proch paint with a little extra sand thrown in? Gotta pick up the materials and get to it tomorrow AM, sorry for the last minute request, thanx
Let’s not confuse the issue with facts!
Replies
One of the most important considerations for ramps is the slope. One inch of rise per 12 inches of run is considered maxium. For very long runs, landings are recommended. This is not always easy to do. If a doorway is 4 feet above the driveway, you need a 48 FOOT ramp. Don't skimp on this. I once had to go from the front yard to a back door to get the necessary distance.
Can your friend use her hands? You might make the main railings 36" high, but add a lower, graspable railing at a height best for her. Round fir railing works pretty well.
Good luck.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
For non-slip decking material, I've used asphalt roll-roofing. Fairly cheap, good traction, choice of colors (black, white & brown). Depending upon your climate, though- would think sand in paint would do about as well.
Yes she can use her hands. Looks like I'll be running about a 1.5" per foot slope to keep the ramp on the exisiting sidewalk, total horizotal run of about 24', and while she's obviously new to this, figures over that short a run she'll be fine. The round handrails sounds like a good idea. ThanxLet's not confuse the issue with facts!
Most of the ramps here, on the New York border with Canada (hence snow), use unpainted pressure treated. No problems, it's not any more slippery than sidewalks or driveways. If you paint, however, some paints, like floor enamel, can be slippery even with just water. If you were going to use a paint like that, I'd mix in some sand in the first coat.
Maximum suggested slope is 1:12, but 1:20 is recommended if there is room. Don't forget adequate space for turns. You may also want to add railings she can use to pull herself up, depending on her condition. If so, make the height appropriate for her, and be sure to use something that won't splinter.
Your plans appear sound. I was not sure from your plans, do you have anything to keep the whole thing from racking, either longitudinally or side to side since your posts are not burried? May want some cross bracing in a few spots.
It's nice of you to help. People going through grief often feel abandoned, even when others wouldn't think so. Your posting will promt prayers for her from all over.
Thanx, will be using daigonal bracing in a place or two. Considering she totally demolished one of her discs, used one of her ribs for repairs, and initially they figured she woud never walk, things are looking a tad hopeful. She did this July 4th weekend, so it's miraculous that she's even home this soon. She's up to 58 steps with a walker! Just thought, what about some of those peel and stick traction thingies for bathtubs, wonder if they come in long strips? Appreciate the help and advise, extra prayers never help either.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
They do make traction strips in rolls. They are for exterior use. Hardware stores sell the material by the foot.
Lighting may be needed, too. I put some on a ramp for a pair of elderly folks who needed good lighting. I found a gooseneck 120 volt landscape light that I mounted on conduit to extend the height. Since it bent over with the globe hanging upside down, there were no shadows. The ramp doubled back on itself, so I mounted the light in between and it lighted both sides well.
I just did one on a new house to accomodate a frequent visitor who is wheelchair bound with MS. While the HO had room for the 1:12 slope, he wanted to keep the ramp within the confines of his existing deck. The resultant 1.75" per foot slope worked out just fine.
For traction, paint and masons sand works, but 90# sanded roll roofing nailed to PT plywood is more durable than you might think. We've used it on a nearby lake for pedestrian ramps from boathouses. Nailed on 4" to 6" centers with roofing nails, I've seen it last for years.
Roll roofing sounds like a great idea.
Here is a website with some traction strips for sale.
Non-skid
traction strips
another idea might be to attach some strips of roll roofing.
that should give plenty of traction,if you can think of a "nice" way to fasten it down.
Hope your friend gets much better
geez........ i feel kinda dumb, but I was looking up the website while everyone else came up with the roll roofing idea, too.
great minds working in unison
Edited 8/16/2003 10:07:52 PM ET by bee
Thanx to all and to all a good nightLet's not confuse the issue with facts!
GD, an important thing along with a rail is a "curb" along the edge of the ramp. This will keep her wheels on the ramp and the event of a walker or crutches, gives the added safety so they don't slip off. The photo shows a deck with ramp for a motorized chair which might help you fine tune the design.
This had a 1*12 and the ramp run was about 14'. You might consider a landing somewhere midway, they gather sizable speed going down and perhaps could use a break pt. on the incline. Seems I remember something about 17' as a max suggested run w/o landing. Hope this gets to you b/4 you start. Best of luck to your friend.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time