Replies

1. 
   Gabe_Martel | Feb 07, 2002 05:34am | #1

   *
   Take one wall at a time. Remove and take full advantage of the opportunity to insulate properly.

   I'd maximize the effect by using polyuretane foam, seal and insulate at the same time.

   That way, your repair will eventually pay for itself in energy savings.

   Gabe

1. 
   calvin_ | Feb 07, 2002 06:07am | #2

   *Rich, My last 3 jobs have involved gutting some of the walls and ceilings of lived in homes. One wood lath, one rock lath and one a combo. If the rock lath wasn't nailed well, it'll come off in large heavy pcs. You'll need to protect your floor. The rock lath is less dusty than the wood lath project. Dust containment in both is a nightmare. There always seems a reason one of the inhabitants has to have access to some part of the area. Both require the complete removal of trim. I guess the only difference between the two substraits are one is heavy big pcs. and the other is heavy little pcs with a shitload of wood and sharp tiny nails. As Gabe suggests, take full opportunity of the possibilities for plumbing, electric and insulation changes. And the very best of luck to you, it's one thing to get paid for doing this.....a whole nother thing to just do it.

1. 
   Rich_Tesoroni | Feb 08, 2002 12:21am | #3

   *Thanks for the info. I'll have to protect the floor since it's new.The house is a split level with the utility room and family room under the bedroom, no basement. Any reason I can't run wire up to the attic as long as it's open and down through the single level wall to the crawlspace under the rest of the house?Thanks,Rich

1. 
   xJohn_Sprung | Feb 08, 2002 12:31am | #4

   *Since you have access to the top of the plaster in the attic, there's one thing you can do to save it if you want to: inject glue between the old wood lath and the plaster. If it's rocklath, of course, that won't work. But getting ceiling plaster down is really very easy - you just put a foot on it from above. The hard part is cleaning up afterwards.For walls or ceilings with a floor above, get a straight blade D-handle shovel, and just scrape the stuff off the lath. Do the bottom foot to foot and a half of the walls first, before the rubble from above makes them inaccessible. Stand to one side so you don't get beaned by falling plaster. I protect the floors with a few layers of newspaper followed by some thin crappy old luan paneling. This gives you a flat surface that's hard enough that you can readily shovel up the broken plaster. Sweep clean before you lay the newspaper so you don't create an abrasive surface against your floor. Demo and remove all the plaster first, then pull the wood lath off with a flat bar. You'll have to dumpster the plaster, but the lath will be eagerly removed by somebody who wants kindling for a fireplace or barbecue. That cuts your disposal problem nearly in half. (I also keep a little of the old lath for stickering new lumber to dry and other things.) I wear a surplus Israeli gas mask from the Gulf War while doing plaster demo. It's hot and cumbersome, but well worth it to get zero dust in the lungs. I shovel the plaster into five gallon buckets and wet it down before dumping it to keep down the dust.-- J.S.

1. 
   Cliff._Johnston | Feb 08, 2002 04:57pm | #5

   *Rich,If the floors are hardwood, I would suggest putting down a few sheets of 3/8" plywood, or if you have another use for a different thickness buy that and get double use from it. Falling plaster can do considerable damage if one is not careful.Cliff.

2. 
   michael_rose | Feb 09, 2002 10:24am | #6

   *Stop!!! Why tear off the plaster. I've seen several jobs where dry wall was used to cover both the ceiling and the walls. Either 5/8 or 1/2 on the ceiling and 1/4 on the walls. You can create any kind of hole for insulation, wiring, etc., and then screw up your sheet rock or even blue board. Ideally, a complete tear off is very tempting and more satisfying in the long run, however, a dry wall make-over also works really well and alot less hassle.Best of luck!

3. 
   Dave_Richeson | Feb 09, 2002 08:48pm | #7

   *I have done the DW over plaster on wood lath on ceiling, if the ceiling isn't to wavey. If it is really up and down or has lots of loose plaster, add furring strips, shim level, and hang DW.Walls I ussually demo just so I can add insulation and have the wiring upgraded. If removing the trim is problem in very old homes, then don't. Replacing older trim is sometimes very expensive, and you can count on breaking at least one piece. I remove the plaster down to the trim or slightly below/behind the edges. Measure the distance from the back of the trim to the framing material and use this number to come up with a combination of drywall thickness to match it (7/8" = 1/2+3/8"). The trim stays in place, and you don't have to find a board stretcher to make it fit a room that use to have 7/8" of plaster and lath, but now has only 1/2" drywall.Dave

4. 
   Brian_Smith | Feb 12, 2002 08:33am | #8

   *drywall over ceiling, if necessary.leave walls.where did the idea come from that proper wallpaper application doesn't require a smooth surface? or a surface with some integrity? of course you can do it...blown-in insulation in walls. patch. texture coat walls to hide imperfections. much less work and expense than 2 layers of drywall, hanging wallpaper, tearing down plaster.when to give up on plaster? after an earthquake hits it! of course it won't matter what you put back up until you solve an apparent moisture/condensation problem that you seem to have. plaster does not behave the way you describe it spontaneously.brian

5. 
   xJohn_Sprung | Feb 13, 2002 02:06am | #9

   *One thing to consider before hanging drywall in addition to existing plaster on a top floor ceiling is whether the ceiling joists can support the additional weight. In older houses, these joists are often already overspanned by today's codes. Nearly doubling the dead load on them can get you in big trouble.-- J.S.