Okay, last couple of weekends on a major reroof. Added a dormer so now I have two pairs of valleys.
I am still struggling with how to join the two valleys at the top. Using metal flashing (not copper). Is anyone aware of an online resource with a clear picture or drawing of ways to have the metal meet and ways to shingle over the top? Piffin gave me a good narrative in early August, but I’d really like to see what is going on under the shingles.
Thanks,
Curtis
Does drilling new screws into the roof rafters compromise the strength of the roof?
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Replies
Wish I had a series of photos....
you lay in the metal on one valley first
Leave about 2" lapping past the ridge of the dormer and cut 2 or 3 slits from end of metal to actual ridge near the intersection of main roof. Fold those flaps down and nail.
Then you do the same on the second valey, except you use a bit of caulk or sealant before folding down and nailing. The ridge material is wider than this joint and sheds water away from it.
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I don't know if you are still following this thread, but...
For the dormer, I'll be able to go past the dormer ridge line. For the California, after trimming for the eaves the corners of the flashing are flush to the California's ridge. But, I have another 10 feet of valley so I could lay a couple of three foot sections and overlap them as you describe. Or, I could leave it as is:
http://webpages.charter.net/baddoglt/Valley.JPG
Either way, looking around the neighborhood, it looks like most people seal the top with some I&W Shield, then simply shingly over leaving a bump. You already gave me some info on the ridge shingles, but is it really as simple as shingling over the tops of the "W"?
Thanks.
- Curtis
leave it as it is and you have an unfinished valley tjhat is gauranteed to leak. No idea what you mean by the California. That's a state, right? hasn't been mentioned previously in this thread.
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Okay, so I'll bring the flashing over the top of the ridge a few inches. You mentioned about two inches so the ridge material would be wider than the joint. Any harm in getting the ridges of the "W" pretty close to the ridge line and overlapping six or so inches of the flashing as long as the joint is caulked or covered?
"California" is a term I've heard for years in northern California and Nevada for a right angled addition to a single ridge ranch home, usually below the existing ridge. If the following, if the bumpout on the left side were added after the original construction, it would be a "California" (ignore the floor plan).
http://www.houseplanguys.com/view-house-plans.php?PlanNum=66-275
In our case, the original 25x40 has a 8x20 addition to the 12x20 living room. When they did the addition, apparently they had a 19 foot 4x12 lying around. So, even though it was short, they used it as a header with three posts with non-equal spacing and a two foot overhang (one foot short) at one end. We replaced it with a girder truss and now have a uninterupted 20x20 living room.
Thanks for all your input,
Curtis
Edited 9/21/2004 10:47 am ET by BADDOGLT