Replies

1. 
   RedfordHenry | Nov 12, 2007 12:11am | #1

   After sealing the side and top nailing flanges to the building with Vycor (or similar), I run a healthy bead of clear silicone along the sides and top before installing trim.  No caulk on the bottom.

2. 
   FLA Mike | Nov 12, 2007 12:13am | #2

   I'd look at Anderson's website and see what they have to say.  The window has been flashed presumably, don't caulk the bottom of the sill or the bottom of the head casing.  bedding the legs in runs of vertical sealant under both edges is good, just don't run sealant horizontally under the legs.  Think about not creating any water traps if/when water gets back there. 

   What's on the exterior?  How are you trimming it? 

   Much luck finding your answer-

   "I wanna be a race car passenger.  You know, the guy that bugs the driver.  Say, man, can I stick my feet out the window?  Do we have to keep going in circles?  Mind if I turn on the radio?  Boy, you really like Tide."

3. 
   NickNukeEm | Nov 12, 2007 01:51am | #3

   The installation guide is pretty specific in caulking criteria.  Check yours.

   The last bunch of 400s I put in required the flange be flashed over, then caulk between window and trim.  The bottom is left as is so H2O can escape.  Gap between trim and window is 1/4".

   Link is for installation guide for 400 double-hung.

   http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite?blobcol=urldata&blobheader=application%2FpdfContent-Disposition%3A+inline%3B+filename%3D0005134.pdf%3B&blobkey=id&blobnocache=false&blobtable=MungoBlobs&blobwhere=1186928299650&ssbinary=true

   "I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul."  Invictus, by Henley.

4. 
   mmoogie | Nov 16, 2007 04:04am | #4

   I'm of the opinion that the caulk is not as important as proper flshing w/vicor and flex wrap at the corners. The caulk is going to fail in short order anyway, and I've read some place, I don't remember where, that siding holds paint better at the junction of trim and clapboards when not caulked, presumably because it dries out easier after getting wet. Since I read that a few years ago, I've been observing a lot of siding for evidence of that, and I thinks it's true.

   As others say, no caulk at the bottom. Water is going to get in eventually, it has to be able to drain out.

   Steve

5. 
   MikeSmith | Nov 16, 2007 04:50am | #5

   when you say "trimming the outside" .. that means a lot of different things

   a 400 has narrow jambs & head, and a pretty skimpy sill, when we trim them we would likely use a false sill ripped & rabbeted fro a 2x4 piece of trex

   the side casing would be 5/3 x 4 ... adn  the head casing would be  5/4 x 6

    you can't paint air.. so we caulk between the casing and the jambs

   and we caulk between the false sill and the Andersen sill

   the false sill has a rabbet that fits over the siding below

   the nailing flanges and the Andersen  bottom seal are all flashed  into the underlayment and siding system

   the caulk is not for water protection, it's to give you a paintable surface

   most homes just get the window.. no additonal trim.. the siding goes right to the narrow vinyl jambs.. there again.. the caulk is not for water protection .. it's to give a paintable surface

   Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
1. 
   mmoogie | Nov 16, 2007 06:32am | #6

   I try not to create air. I cut my siding tight to the trim. If I recall in the past you've advocated leaving 1/8" gap for caulk, no?Steve

1. 
   MikeSmith | Nov 16, 2007 07:46am | #7

   steve... short of a glued joint.... you have air

   the paint won't fill even that small gap

   in the old days , they would putty that gap

   today  they fill the gap

   then they cut in

   you can't paint air

   you can make a very tight , neat, joint....but you can't paint itMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore