There is a plethora of construction adhesives out there and I’m sure some of the choices are more marketing hype than offering real advantages. Still, one tube can’t do all jobs
So, what do you like for subfloor to framiing? drywall? EPS foam? XPS foam? cellular PVC trim? Bilco steel bulkhead to concrete? etc. etc. etc.
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Replies
for all structural wood to wood or wood to concrete such as subfloor to joists, use PL Premium. It will work for steel to crtete also, but I might use a Vulcum or geocel there because of the thermal expansion rates.
For the foams, a spray foam can to gun type. Enerfoam, Tigerfoam, Fomofoam...
The enerfoam was also developed primarily as a sheetrocker's glue and it can be used for structural sheathing too.
Cellular PVC - the manufacturers all sell their own products but you can use PVC glues or read their instructions for alternate recomendations. There are both the old PVC glues that weld the material chemicly and new PVC glues less VOC with a latex base but I am not totally sold on them yet.
For wood trim, I am still a fan of TitebondII and some other wood joints I use Gorilla glue.
as far as one tube doing all jobs - the PL Premium pretty much CAN do it all, but it can be messy or harder to use for some things so it is not all that appropriate for many
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I've just never used any of the PL products; always had good success with whatever Liquid Nails product was for whatever job involved.
Forrest
You've gotta graduate past second grade in this glue pot, Man!;)Liquid nails is fine for tacking up trim and paneling, but it is a third as good as PL Premium for structrual work.The PL P will go further too for something like gluing decking down because of its expansive properties.
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Man, you're up early!
You're right, I have to expand my horizons. I'm just comforted by the handy instructions in big letters on the tubes - "For Subfloor" "For Projects" "For Minor Cuts", etc.
Forrest
Do they still use that model on the label too? She might be part of the atractiveness, eh? Makes you want to stick with their product!;)
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Isn't that model so definitively '60s!
I think I love her - especially the boots.
I'd feel like I was cheating to use PL.
Forrest
Just to take it a step further...You know the little red rubbers that Fascap sells for saving partly used tubes?
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Yeah. . .?
Forrst
Crew I worked for used PL Premium Construction adhesive for most stuff like subfloors and anything else any form of construction adhesive was used for. We tried PL's subfloor glue once and didn't care for it.
Gorilla was used for a most anything else. Titebond II was was used for interior stuff.
I'm playing around with Titebond III, but haven't really tried it for outdoor heavy exposure stuff. I should make something just to test it.
PL premium for most things framing, Titebond II for joining interior wood, Gorilla glue, occasionally epoxy for joining outdoor wood. Titebond trim and moulding glue for miters. Sikaflex for some exterior trim- holding a sill onto a window, say, I use sikaflex and screws. I'm not a big fan of titebond 3- seems like it's kind of easy to get starved, weak joints, and from what I've heard, gorilla glue is much more reliable in wet conditions.
zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
For the finish work I do the glue I use most is Titebond "Trim & Molding" (no runs, high tack, quick cure, void filling, dries clear, strong too).
During the winter I use Titebond 3 more (lower useful temperature range--handy in Minnesota). I also use Titebond 3 for Laminate countertop miters for the longer open assembly time, strength and waterproof properties.
It has not been mentioned yet, but Loctite PowerGrab is a good construction adhesive for finish work. It is white, cleans up with water (nice when working over finished floors, carpet etc.) I use PowerGrab to prefill gaps behind moldings, before caulking, on paint grade work (when crown or large base can't follow a wavy surface tightly).
I found PowerGrab helpful when mounting light rail to the bottom of kitchen cabinets (especially the dreaded white cabinets). It fills all the small gaps between the cabinets and the rail that the under cab lights would otherwise show.
The "grab" of the Loctite product can be almost like having an extra helper holding a molding in place for you while you nail it. The TV ads make too much of the claim that no fasteners are needed--but sometimes I do use it to install a few pieces of trim without nails.
I'll have to try that powergrab!story about Gorilla glue that underlines the point that not every glue is right for everything.I was working for a lady who watched me every now and then. I was making something with some glue and she asked me what kind of glue I like for that.I had my mind on what I was doing and just rattled of the words Gorilla Glue and kept right on working.I should have asked her why she was asking, because that weekend, she went out and boutght a big bottle of Gorilla and tried to use it for all kinds of stuff all over the house, not realizing how it foams and that certain things needed to be clamped or tacked into place.Monday morning I see gobs of overfoam all over the place, rinning down windows, over countertops, down the walls, across the floors....
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--"I'll have to try that powergrab!"PowerGrab can be ideal for some things...it too has places it probably should not be used. They make an "exterior formula" I would not trust, nor would I use it for anything at the framing stage.That is funny about the lady & the Gorilla glue. I only use Gorilla glue when I have to. I always end up wearing it.On PL Premium...I had to install newel posts over a floor with Pex radiant heating in the floor and a finished ceiling below. Wondered if I would ever be able to get things sturdy enough. Used a floor mount bracket, lots of short screws (to avoid hitting the pipes) and PL premium between the bracket and floor and between the bracket and post. I was suprised how sturdy it was...as good as any newel lagged into a floor joist (at least on the day I left--I hope it holds up over time). Desperate times call for really good adhesives.
"I was working for a lady who watched me every now and then. I was making something with some glue and she asked me what kind of glue I like for that."Was here name Pat?I have a friend like that. And if I "allowed her" she would have the same mess.I also really like Powergrab for those odd pices of molding/trim and places where you can't easly clamp or nail.Was painting modular home where the wall material was somekind of 3/8" DW/composite panels covered with a vinyl material. A small battens covered the seams. Double battens on the corners. Some of them where loose at the bottoms. And they where thin and on the corners it appeared that they where fastened into the "DW" and a brad might not make the studs.A few dabs of Powergrab behind it and pressed it in place..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I don'y even remember her name.She had red hair though.One of the spots was where she let the bottle tip over near her kitchen sink. She noticed it after awhile and just automaticly used a wet rag to wipe.She thought she had taken care of it then went back in a couple of hours later to see a gigantic coma shape where she had smeared it.She did herself a favour andlet me clean up her messes. I made sure to hide the rest of that bottle in my truck!
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PL for rough work, like just about everyone. I also go through a lot of WeldBond for finer work. I seem to have collected a number of UHU specialty adhesives over the last couple of years. Lastly, there're the super-glues, like cyanoacrylates, that are very useful (I use mostly LocTite exotics, and they have a book full of them). And every now and then I use 3M spray, like "77" for a positioning bond.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Framing, stair treads to stringers, shingle corners (thanks Piffin!): PL Premium.
Trim: Titebond II
Repairs and small trim details: 2P10 Cyanoacrylate
PVC trim: Azek glue
Rigid foams: Cut tight and use spray foam to seal the edges
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