A friend has a simple roof- one ridge and two planes. Pitch is about 2/12 or even less. Existing roof is tar and gravel and is failing after only 13 years. Failing as in it could possibly be repaired, but it will only leak sooner rather than later.
One estimate is a new tar and gravel for $10K and another is $12K for a membrane called DuraLast. I’m thinking anythings better than tar and gravel. I have used EPDM for Resource Conservation Technologies for a really small job.
Any advice between these three? Any other long term alternatives you guys like? Can you do metal at such a shallow slope? She trusts me and I could talk her into $2-3K more if I felt it was worth it.
She also needs new fascia. If she went long term roof, I’m thinking redwood primed with liquid epoxy and then painted. BTW, we’re in CA so redwood is only $$ instead of $$$$. How about Azek or similar? Can you get synthetic that’s paintable or dark?
I know those are a lot of questions. Thanks.
Replies
>> How about Azek or similar? Can you get synthetic that's paintable or dark? <<
As far as I know, it all comes white. Just to give you an idea, I think Azek is around $32 for a 1x6x18', and yes, it is paintable, although a dark color might make it expand and contract a lot, especially if it is very hot there.
Edited 7/31/2006 7:28 am ET by Matt
Ryan,
my preference- Built-up Roofing (tar and gravel), EPDM, metal, and then Duralast.
If done correctly a BUR can last a very long time. It does have some limitations during installation, such as 400* hot asphalt, objectionable fumes, and the potential to have asphalt get onto everything. But once installed, it provides redundancy in membrane plies, good puncture resistance, and good fire resistance with a gravel surface.
My experience with the west coast is usually a nailed base sheet and two plies of felt in hot asphalt. If you did consider this route, see what the cost is to have three plies installed. Better roof and longer life.
I assume this a house? The single plys (EPDM and Duralast) IMHO, never look very good on a house, if the roof is visible from the street. For aesthetics, I would consider standing seam metal, but I haven't seen the place.
The best advice I can offer is to find a good roofing contractor who will give you several options and explain the benefits and disadvantages of each system. One who focuses less on brand or product and more on roof system type. There is no "best" roof system to fit every situation.
Hope this helps
Thanks vintage,
I was thinking a membrane over BUR, because the existing roof is BUR and it's only 14 yrs old and has already been patched. Just a bad BUR? Personally, I expect at least 20 yrs from any roof. Roof is not visible from the street; it's low-pitched gable w/ the gable facing the street. It is a house in NorCal. Winter low = 35F / Summer high = 110F!
I called Resource Conservation Technology for a quote on EPDM, and they also recommended their built up acrylic. Three coats with a fiberglass layer embedded. It comes in colors as well. Any experience with this? Thanks.
a two ply is supposed to be a 15 year roof in a moderate climate.but since that is the very minimum BUR you can get, ANY error whatsoever means a leaak before time's up.Now what percentage of the guys who specialize in doing minimum rated roofsdo you suppose can install one with no errors???? so that meaans a two ply is liuckky to give you anything over twelve years in reality.I would never do one that was less thaan three ply
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Ryan,
No experience with that product. Looking at their website, I consider that a reinforced coating product, not the same thing as an asphalt BUR.
Of course I am in the midwest, and our climate is much harder on roofs. So maybe it would hold up.
I would ask the mfg. how long has that system been on the market? How long has it been in-service in Nor Cal? and if they can provide you with any examples of roof projects in your area.
Some coating manufacturers make fabulous claims about their products, but at the end of the day, IMO, it is still just a liquid applied coating.
You might look at Conklin's RapidRoof III. I have used it on several low pitch and flat roofs with parapet walls. It is an elastomeric coating with fabric reenforcement that looks like it is the same stuff as Resource Conservation Technology's stuff. They market it for commercial applications but it works well for residential. This stuff is white and does seem to keep a building cooler. Not sure about longevity as the oldest one I have done is around 10 years old. The one beef I have is that it is not very tough as I have had to go do patchwork after bad storms to repair holes from falling tree branches though the patches are very easy to do.
-Day
Kommerling plastics produces a product called Koma board which I like a LOT more than Azek. has a surface treatment that is designed to hold paint. works.Mills well.(I've made crown from it). They're gonna have to come with a better wood before I use anything else at fascia,ext columns or ext trim. Jim Devier
Where is this? Desert heat? Snow and ice?
How is the existing roof failing? Material burned out? Incorrect installation?
-- J.S.
Sprung,
This is NorCal. We get desert heat, cloudless months in the summer, and sometimes the monsoon in winter.
I can't say for sure how the existing BUR is failing but the report says the gravel was pulled away at some point and "mastic" was applied to the problem area and the gravel was pushed back again. I figure the "mastic" was something like John Henry paint on tar.
Any input on your favorite low pitch roof coverings?
We've used built-ups on my parents' flat roof. The first one was old but still holding on after 21 years, when a waterspout came in off the ocean and took off about 6 squares. We got another 10 years out of it after the repair. Then we re-roofed completely 2-3 years ago. They had to come back and fix leaks the first rainy season. This is in Southern CA.
The competence of the roofers is far more important than the choice of materials.
-- J.S.
I have the equipment for both built up ( for my stuff i always go at least 4 usually 5 ply) base then 10" exposure and roll/mop 4-6 rolls at a time and the equipment for torch down... as for speed and stay'n clean and know'n what i have when done... i use alot of torchdown... with a dragon wagon i can lay 7-10sq an hour on all flat open area... but it's the details that give you a good roof and what take the time... I've done as much as 3600sf with nothing but a hand torch, that will cut you down to maybe 2-3 sq an hour on open areas... but I think it's a good roof & i have some that I've done that look new after 7 years...
off the subject a little... had an old guy tell me they use to (paint/coat) built up roofs with a portland paint... which he said was nothing but white portland and sand that it was done for keep'n the building cooler (white vs black roof) and that by keep'n the roofs cooler they lasted much longer.... anyone ever heard of this...?
thanks
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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>had an old guy tell me they use to (paint/coat) built up roofs with a portland paint... which he said was nothing but white portland and sand that it was done for keep'n the building cooler (white vs black roof) and that by keep'n the roofs cooler they lasted much longer.... anyone ever heard of this...?Never heard of it, but it makes sense. Should also protect from UV rays.
Are we there, yet?
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