I have an application in which I would be pre-drilling the nail holes. If hand-driving the nails, we would be talking about 6d finishing nails. Is there a pneumatic nailer on the market that allows the nail point to protrude a little so that it can be placed in the pre-drilled hole?
Framing the floor inside a crawlspace foundation keeps a gable-end addition close to grade.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
I know about "positive placement" nailers, but they all involve headed types of nails - mostly for steel joist hangers and the like.
Never heard / saw one for finish nails.
How about a palm nailer? Drill, set nail, palm nailer to drive. Potential drawback - most palm nailers have a tendency to mar the wood surface if you fully drive the nail.
16oz Estwing and a nail set?
Bump
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
> 16oz Estwing and a nail set?My backup plan is a 20 oz Bluegrass and a nail set. Just wanted to speed things up (been looking for an excuse to buy a nailer anyway).George Patterson
You know when you are hand nailing trim? The old way was to blunt the end of finish nails that were to be used near the end of the trim. The blunt end crushes the wood fibers instead pushing them aside, so when nailing near the end, it shouldn't split.
I'd try this approach.... Take a clip of finishing nails and go to a grinder. On your first clip, grind away half of the tapered point to form a slight blunted end. On the next clip blunt the ends using almost all the tapered points to see if it works better and doesn't split the trim stock.
Choose which amount of blunting works best by placing them into the nail gun for test firing on identical trim. Let us know how it works for you.
Bill
Chust as I suspected! Ve vill not tell your vife. Ve know nothing!
Good luck.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Actually, my wife is a dream in this regard. But I'd bet I could change that if I bought enough stuff!George Patterson
The ends of pneumatic finish nails have a chisel tip. Different brands have the chisel oriented different ways, but it's there.
If you orient the gun so the chisel shape is going across the wood grain instead of along the grain, the nails will tend to cut their way through and splitting is minimized.
When the chisel tip goes along the grain, it wedges the wood apart.
Hand nails wedge the wood no matter which way you hold them. Thus the blunting idea.
It also helps to use the smallest nail that will do the job, and to stay at least a couple inches away from the ends of the board. For casing I use an 18ga nail to the jamb and a 15ga or 16ga into the stud.
Thinking about the chisel direction also helps avoid blow-outs when the nail catches the grain.
I was going to say pretty much what you said--orient the chisel tip to cut across the grain and practice on a scrap piece first.
That was a bit more concise!
> If you orient the gun so the chisel shape is going across the wood
> grain instead of along the grain, the nails will tend to cut their
> way through and splitting is minimized. Perfect! I want to use a nailer to minimize the pounding on the structure, but I'm worried about splitting. This will let me take care of both worries.George Patterson
why would ya need to predrill for a pnematic trim nailer???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I always pre-drill oak, especially close to the ends of boards. That's the case here.George Patterson