Which self-leveling compound do you use?
I purchased one of those kerdi shower kits that comes with a two-piece pre-sloped shower tray. It measures 60″ x 32″. I’ve framed the walls for the shower and put down some additional underlayment. After gluing and screwing the ply, the floor in the stall ended up with a 3/4″ pitch from one end to the other. I have to remedy this since the shower tray is factory formed with its own pitch for drainage.
This is my first tiling project, so I could really use some guidance. My underlayment is currently 1″ thick. Should I add another layer of underlayment and shim it level prior to installing the shower tray? Will some SLC be sufficient to address this problem? If so, can someone recommend a reliable brand of SLC?
Thanks.
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Used knowledge is even more valuable.
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I'd recommend against shimming. You want a base that's solid all the way across, and shimming will leave flexible spots between the shims. Your idea of self leveling compound is the way I'd go.
I can't recall a brand, but I've used several. All were cementitious (i.e. cement based). They work really well. There are two things that are critical, though. First, since they are liquids, they will leak out any holes or cracks you have, so the area you are leveling must have no holes or cracks. Second, you must mix according to the directions, measuring precisely the amount of water to add. Do not mix by eye. There is a very narrow range of water content that works with them. If you mix it too thin it will be weak, and too thick and it won't level.
When you place it all you need to do is push it around a little with a broom or squeegee, then leave it alone. On an area as small as a shower you probably don't even need to do that, just pour it around.
Thank you, my friend.New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
I've used Quikcrete's SLC. It is SHOCKING how it will pass thru small holes. If it's going to build up against a wall I would tape the floor-wall joints with something like Tyvek tape so that it's watertight. The stuff seems thinner than water. You know you have a leak when you see small bubbles popping up, and by then it's hell to stop it.
Geez, I always thought that SLC was an easy product to use. I caulked around the framing where the pour will take place, but now I'm not sure that's sufficient. Should I staple down some kind of membrane before the pour? The entire shower section is sloped from one end to the other, so I don't plan to stop pouring until the complete area is covered. That's the only way I can be sure I've compensated for the entire grade. I sure hope it sets up faster than it leaks out.
Like I said, this is my first tiling job...and first time using SLC.
Thanks again,
MichaelNew knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
It does not set up faster than it leaks out. It seems to me to set up IF it is sitting still, not if it is moving. For kicks, pour a bucket of water on the area and see if it stays, then use a shop-vac to take it up.
is this the one from quickcrete?http://www.quickrete.com/ProductLines/UnderlaymentFastSetting.aspThanks
I don't think so. The sack I got was more like 50 or 60 pounds. The one you reference also says "trowel applied", which doesn't sound right since all you do is pour it out of a bucket and rake it around a bit.
This looks more promising:
http://www.quickrete.com/ProductLines/FloorResurfacerSL.asp
Edited 8/19/2007 5:39 pm by davidmeiland
thanks for the response, I saw that one too, but the "applied to new concrete slabs or slabs with unacceptable finish" threw me off.The link I posted was the only one I saw that mentioned wood sub surface.
As the OP of this thread, I thought I should update you guys on the status of this project. I made three attempts to use the SLC. On the first attempt, I splattered SLC all over the house, myself, and a brand new set of french doors. The SLC thickened so fast that I burned up two drills and never got to pour. On the second attempt, I managed to get the pour done, but ran short on SLC. On the third attempt, I got complete coverage that went on smooth and flowed beautifully. However, after it hardened, it was still sloped 1/2" from one end of the stall to the other and was near the top of the sole plate in some areas.
I hate to admit it, but the SLC has whooped my butt.
I'm now considering a mudbed. I've always been under the impression that it takes a lot of skill to do a mudbed. But, the folks over at the tile forum are telling me that it's actually easier than working with SLC and that I should have gone that route to begin with.
I do have at least one good thing to report. I purchased a mudmixer from Harbor Freight that worked like a dream. The speed and torque is variable, and it has plenty of both. I really like the way it starts slowly and gradually builds rpm to avoid splattering. Costs $129.00 on the shelf, but they'll honor the internet price of $89.00 if you print it out and take it with you. It comes with a paddle and will even balance upright in a bucket of water between mixes. Pretty nice tool for the money.
Michael
New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Why not set in in Structo lite or a similiar perlied gypsum light weight mortar as you would a fiberglass tub or shower base.
You're making too much of this.[email protected]
"Why not set in in Structo lite or a similiar perlied gypsum light weight mortar as you would a fiberglass tub or shower base."
I'm not familiar with that product. I'll check it out.
"You're making too much of this."
You're exactly right. I am making too much of this. Sometimes I get flustered when things don't go well and I let the simplest problems become a big obstacle for me. New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
You're exactly right. I am making too much of this. Sometimes I get flustered when things don't go well and I let the simplest problems become a big obstacle for me.
Don't sweat it, you'rn not alone;~)[email protected]
I'm pretty sure the Kerdi spec is to thinset the base to the floor. Dunno if you could thinset to Structolite or not, but it seems too easy to just pour out a couple of sacks of SLC, wait until tomorrow and then install the base.
around here Mapi ( not sure of spelling) makes a self leveling compound. The directions are on the bag, but it is almost like water after it is mixed and will seek it own level. Have to make sure all little holes are plug or it will run right through.
No shims.
Use TEC TA323 self leveler. Goes from featheredge to 1.5" thick.
Kind of pricey, here it costs us about $40/50# bag.
Good stuff though.
sully