Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 29, 2000 05:19am | #1

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   pine is traditional...

   but luan has some natural decay resistance and machines well... pretty reasonable too , especially if you can rip your stock from 5/4 x 4 luan square edge decking..

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   Guest_ | May 29, 2000 06:20am | #2

   *Lloyd, if you search the archives you might find this subject. It was discussed at some length 6(?) months ago. Here in Southern Calif, we use earthquake windows & bullet proof glass for the drive-bys! Joe H

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   Guest_ | May 29, 2000 06:30am | #3

   *VG Fir (have to bow my head when I say that).

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   Guest_ | May 29, 2000 01:03pm | #4

   *Marvin will build their combination wood storms to meet your spec. They use clear pine.

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   Guest_ | May 29, 2000 01:23pm | #5

   *Lloyd, I build wood storms and screens as a sideline for my cabinetmaking business. Most are built for older homes like your own. I buy wide and long 5/4" common pine such as a 12" x 16'. Because the stiles and rails are fairly narrow you can get a surprising number of clear pieces despite all of the knots. This is a much cheaper way to go than to buy clear pine. The owner of the lumber yard allows me to do a some picking among the piles which also helps. Pine will last a long time in a vertical application like storms. I have some on my house which date from the 1920's. Good luck with your project.

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   Guest_ | May 30, 2000 08:24am | #6

   *Any construction tips or resources? Do you do 'simulated' muntins?I'd like to add some surface-mounted muntins to a client's French doors -- the mfr wanted $400 and an extra week for a set of 2x8-lite doors, seemed like a bit much, so we ordered them clear insulated. I don't have cope-and-stick router bits (as yet) and thought about coping them the old fashioned way...And there is certainly a market for storms here, over those evil triple-track finger-eaters (are they even still sold?).

3. 
   Guest_ | May 30, 2000 12:33pm | #7

   *I did almost 70 storms for a '20s house last year, and learned a lesson about what not to use. They were made of mahongany, thinking about how well it would resist rot. Well, they looked great, but they weigh a ton and even with a good paint job the oil leaks out the joints and bottom grain. Changing the storms is a frigging work-out.But using a manufactured window can be a problem. Chances are then none of your windows is square, and every storm will have to be hand fitted. The new pine will give you a problem with expansion and contraction. In order to make it fit tight enough to do any good, you have to trim it to within 1/8 tolerance, but then when you try to get it in and out, it sticks. Pushing it can easily splinter the frame and sill. But give it greater tolerance and there are big gaps all winter, when it contracts.SHG

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   Guest_ | May 30, 2000 07:56pm | #8

   *I've been building wood storms and screens for 15 years out of kiln-dried pine and have never had any significant expansion-contraction problems. Nor, would I expect to since the stiles and rails are only around 2" wide (the bottom rail on a storm is somewhat wider). I usually aim to trim about 1/8" under in width and 1/16" in height. That seems to make for a good fit which is not too snug. The storm rests against stops on the window frame on three sides and gravity holds it to the sill on the bottom so there isn't a lot of air infiltration. I've found that window openings on old and new houses can be somewhat out of square but usually not enough to require much hand fitting. I do agree that the storms once fitted with glass are heavy and that changing back to screens is a "frigging work-out".

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   JimT | May 30, 2000 09:32pm | #9

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   I used KD poplar for my storms in NE Ohio. Used mortise and tenon joinery held together with Resorcinol glue. Poplar is soft enough to take those little push pins to hold the glass in place. Primed with oil base primer before putting glass in. Then two coats of exterior latex. So far, after 6 years no problem!

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   Lloyd_Miller | May 30, 2000 09:32pm | #10

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   I live in a 200 year old house with "12 over 8" windows and would like to build storm windows to match the break point of the sashes. I would like to know what wood(s) would be best to use. The windows will be painted.