I want to put clapboards and pilaster boards on my 1842 Greek Revival House in Rural New York State so that it has an original appearance. (It is now it covered in disintegrating homosote that lasted 50 years!)
Here’s my question: My neighbor has a Woodmizer saw mill and can make clapboard and pilaster boards from white pine, which is what they originally used in my area. Should I use this or cement fiber hardieboard clapboards? If I go with the hardieboard, what should I use for the pilaster boards? If I go with the white pine clapboards, should they be rough or planed? How should they be finished?
Is it o.k. to restore an old house with hardiboard?
Thanks for any replies
Replies
Hardie..and Hardie trim.
Beats wood...unless ya have restrictions ( historical etc.)
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Thanks for the good reply.
Does Hardie come thick enough, long enough, and wide enough for Greek Revival pilaster boards?
Should the window trim also be of Hardie?
I think (sometimes) that the trim is 5/4..someone will shoot me down if I am wrong..
Yes, it may require a scarf joint for length..IIRC 12' is the max. I have been wrong before tho'.
One can always pack the back side with siding stock to make a fatter face..just be sure to add caulk /sealant in the joint.
And as always...think like water..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
If the house is properly built, and the siding job is done properly, then wood siding will last at least as long as the guarantee period on Hardie boards. (Assuming that the homasote was put on in the 50's, then its likely that the original siding lasted more than one hundred years. Hardie is warranted for fifty.)
If any of us think about it, we have all probably seen a wood-sided house that is over one hundred years old, and is in good shape. Its all in the maintenance.
But make no mistake. "Properly done" is a very powerful phrase. If you use the pine, it should be dried, and it should be planed. Dried to avoid excessive shrinkage. And planed, to avoid holding moisture in the rough surface.
The finish is your choice. But the preparation for the finish is part of that "Properly" thing.
And note -- other that the surface preparation for painting, the steps for hanging pine clapboards are about the same as the steps for hanging Hardie. I also agree with the other replies -- Hardie looks good, but since the thickness is not full, it won't look the same.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
re: the woodmizered siding - - top quality siding boards are quarter sawn - this is basically impossible to do with a woodmizer - - there is a radial mill that does this -
also, the nature of the log is an important - fast growing trees/big growth rings = wild (unstable) material -
you can make it work, just be aware, and meticulous with installation -
I second what Doud said. The qualities that came from the slow growth of the original lumber and the quarter sawing were very important.
Edit - inserted a missing word.
Edited 8/2/2004 10:23 pm ET by Cleveland_Ed