Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Oct 15, 2009 05:19pm | #1

   White pine can be a VERY white wood. In the older cottages, the pine would have been patinated over the years -- darker to start with.

   So, maybe you could use some sort of medium-colored glaze before the whitewash?

   I won't be laughing at the lies when I'm gone,
   And I can't question how or when or why when I'm gone;
   I can't live proud enough to die when I'm gone,
   So I guess I'll have to do it while I'm here. (Phil Ochs)

2. 
   PeterJ | Oct 15, 2009 05:20pm | #2

   Sounds like a weathered milk paint look you're after, with a clear acrylic topcoat. Never done it, but I think you're in the faux painting realm. Faux finishing books or Google will be your friend.

    

   Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

1. 
   Crawdad | Oct 15, 2009 05:24pm | #3

   Thanks to both of you.

3. 
   Piffin | Oct 16, 2009 12:29am | #4

   you are not talking about whitewash from that desccription. Whitewash is a mix of lime applied to barns and fencces to clean them, brighten things, and preven t flame spread. It is very chalky

    

    

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1. 
   BarryE | Oct 16, 2009 12:44am | #5

   whitewashing and pickling are also terms applied to types of finishes on interior woodworkold timers did call it liming because of what you mentioned the use of unslaked lime

   Barry E-Remodeler

    

1. 
   Piffin | Oct 16, 2009 01:04am | #6

   That's a corruption of the term then. Ask for whitewash in rural farm country and you won't want it on the inside of your house. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   BarryE | Oct 16, 2009 01:49am | #7

   I am in rural farm country and people have asked for it for yearsI always ask them if they want it on the fence or the paneling. worked so far. <G>

   Barry E-Remodeler

    

2. 
   Crawdad | Oct 16, 2009 07:08am | #9

   Yep, I know.  Perhaps I should have said white wash look, something a bit more translucent maybe than a solid coat of paint.

4. 
   shawncal | Oct 16, 2009 05:47am | #8

   I am going for the same look in our rustic kitchen, where we need something that can be washed down periodically.  I am using pine T&G also.  After talking to several manufacturers, I arrived at the following faux finish, a 3 step-process:  To seal the grain and prevent bleed through, I am starting with Zinnser Sealcoat (basically a wax-free version of their shellac), followed by two coats of white paint (I'm using an AFM flat white), followed by a topcoat or two of Zinnser clear shellac.  The number of topcoats determines how much sheen you end up with.  I've only done some sample boards at this point, but it gave us exactly the look we were after.

   I initially diluted the white paint with water, thinking it would be necessary.  But even at full strength, I had to apply two coats to get the coverage we wanted.  The knots and grain still showed through even after two light coats.

   I should add that the topcoat of clear shellac did cause the white to 'yellow' slightly.  I thought it was a rustic look, but my wife thought it looked dirty.  So we tried the same process except substituted a water-based poly for the topcoat and it came out better.

   Shawn

   
   

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   Edited 10/16/2009 9:02 am ET by shawncal

5. 
   migraine | Oct 16, 2009 12:24pm | #10

   try mohawk(or behlen).  They have a few stains.  I like the wiping stain and can be sprayed.  I haven't used it in a few years, so the formulas may have changed due to VOC's

   They also have a white glaze that can be used to highlight edges, cracks.  It is applied between top coats.

   http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=177