I’m getting ready for the fall forage in the woods – – went out this afternoon back to an area in our woods to plan strategy – and again I come up against trees that are bigger than I can comfortably fell with my larger saw with a 24″ bar – – I need a 36″ or so – – the dealers around here don’t stock anything this size, and really don’t know anything about saws of this capacity – –
so… stihl? – – what size? – – I’ve been perusing e-bay trying to get some idea – there seem to be 36″ bars on saws as small as the 066 – seems to me, likely to be underpowered, right? – – there are 077’s and 088’s which seem more likely to have the power –
what about Husqvarna? no dealer near me, but they seem to be the only other alternative – – any comments on a specific model?
thanks, DOUD
Replies
David,
May I suggest that you only rent one with a 36" or better bar. You will only use it the odd time and it's hard to justify the expense. Also give you a chance to "weigh" the pro/cons of a large saw before deciding whether to buy one or not.
My fishing partner hails from the lumber towns of BC and has quiet a collection of pro chain saws including the 36". In the past five years of clearing our bush lot, we have only used the big saw on one occasion and it was an awkward situation.
Gabe
Gabe
a good idea Gabe, (and RW) - I'll check, but I'll be surprised if the local shops have anything that big - - I really only need if for felling, and it is hard to justify several hundred dollars for 20-30 cuts a year - on the other hand, I find it somewhat intimidating dropping large trees without the proper tool - there is enough economy in cutting my own material (sheet of OSB is $30 now, costs me about $5 to cut 32sf of 1" poplar) that a new tool is not too hard to justify...
Need one like this ???
Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in his shoes.
That way, when you criticize him, you are a mile away from him and you have his shoes.
actually, I've got one similar - an old 'Mall' - I'll post a pict tomorrow if I get time - I've never run it, tho it does have compression - I'd probably have to find two men to run it, don't know if I would be up to it -
ah, the interchangeble motor chain saw.
I have heard of them, but never seen them.
So, the yellow motor is for evergreens and the red motor is for hardwoods?
Or is it vice - versa? (g)!
I think I'd concur with Gabe. If you can rent one, it beats the cost of a new Stihl 88. They're what, $700 or better? A local sawyer here has pretty much what Gabe just mentioned, and he's got a bar that is either 46, 48 - geez its big. Rare times for using that. Do any of the rental shops in your area stock stuff that big?
"The child is grown / The dream is gone / And I have become / Comfortably numb " lyrics by Roger Waters
Use your 24" saw, get a 36" bar and skip tooth chain (only every other tooth on the chain).
You got trees over 60" dia?
there's an idea - - of course my 24" saw is a 650 echo, which is a bit of an orphan these days - I checked for big bars last year and couldn't turn up any listed for it - - I suppose a stihl bar could be modified -
I don't think I have any 60" trees, tho there are a couple that would come close - several 42-48"(at the level where you make the felling cut), including the two ash specimans that I have my sights set on - - I just don't feel comfortable working on trees that size with a 24" bar - the 'mouth' cut isn't deep enough, and then the back cut has to be made in phases - it's much better when they end up laying where you want them...
I agree with Junkhound. Go with the skip tooth and take your time cutting. Stihl is pretty conservative in the bar length they will specify for a given powerhead. I have a Stihl 039 with a 24" bar and I would put a 36" bar skip tooth chain. If it didn't work I could still buy a bigger powerhead and use the same bar.
The thought of felling stuff that big is out of my league. Be careful.
Karl
thanks, Karl - - felling 42" trees is no different than felling 16" ones - - if you have the right tool - - I was unaware of the 'skip tooth' chain - - thanks...
David
Your about 6 months to late I just gave away a Jonsered with a 48" bar. Wasn't a problem to use when I was younger but my back seems to have aged lately so I moved down to a stihl with a 24" bar which works fine on our property. We still have a few bigger trees which I want to take down this winter but I'm going to bring a faller in for them. In years past I had no problem falling trees but a few close calls have convinced me to hire this job out.
Your about 6 months to late...
story of my life... - - close calls, eh? - - I have to admit to quite an adrenline rush as a tree starts to crack and pop - seems like every one is a close call when it ca-rumphs to the ground - - two years ago I had the first one go in a different direction than I had planned - a big one too - I blame it on an inadequate mouth cut, because I didn't have a big enough saw...
I run a 36" bar on an 041 Stihl and the power is fine.
Personally, I like a long bar for more than just big stuff...it's a real back saver when whacking up firewood that's laying near the ground...it's also good for making sweeping cuts through brush and the blackberries that are a scourge out here.
Check out http://www.baileys-online.com if you can't get a bar locally.
Notchman, I was just getting up to get my Bailey's catalog, I second your post, good people and great tool/supplies. Jim J, ps David, for me, I almost always use Felling wedges, I love em.
thanks for the heads-up on Baileys - doing a little surfing and ordered a catalog - - talking myself into a new tool - it's real easy...
Here's another link:
http://www.cutterschoice.com/cgi-bin/store/cutters.cgi?cur=USD&html=aboutus_us
I've always had good luck with them. And like Notchman, I ran a 36" bar on the same O41 for 20 years, then I lent it out...dum da dum dum<G> EliphIno!
My biggest saw is a Husky 272 and I use a 48in bar to split 36 inch logs. Husky strains with that big a bar, but ripping takes a lot more power than crosscuttting, so you could use that combo easily for felling. Remember, you aren't lifting the whole bar when felling. Just putting it in position and letting her rip. Skip tooth chains are for ripping, but I guess they would work ok for felling. Gives you more time per chain revolution to get the chips out.
Stef
well, I solved/created my problem!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2354755509&category=20538&rd=1
a new (to me) tool! aw-rite - -
thinkin' I ought to get a spare chain - - thinkin' maybe I'll check with this guy and see if he has a 48" bar also - - just like Christmas, but better! - - thinkin' maybe I'll nail the ol' lady - - c'mer honey....
One of the things I didn't see in all the talk was sharpineng the saw. Get a case of files, Ha Ha. I used to have a Homelite 750 which was a nce running saw. But when I was out somewhere to use it and hit some thing, what a pain to sharpen.
The other thing to remember is that you can also have another shorter bar for other then the big felling. Then you can get alot more use out of it.
Clay
I agree, sharp chains are the key to happiness - I always take some spares with me - - $35 for a spare for this new saw, I think I'll only get one right now...
I was going to start a sharpening thred, but...
I suck at it. I always ruin the blade and it cuts worse than when I started sharpening. At work we have a device that holds the chain and a grinder on a bevel, it seems like it would introduce an odd angle and grind a lot of metal off.
The pro I know (clearing contractor) uses a round file but I can't find one appropriately sized anywhere. I have a husqy with 20" bar and opportunities to take good wood, but for lack of a sharp chain....
remodeler
well, my experience has been that a chain exists in three conditions:
sharp & sweet: the cutting edges are as sharp as a razor on both sides, the teeth are evenly ground and bite equally on both sides, and the cutting depth is adjusted and equal on both sides and appropriate for the material being sawed - (and the bar is straight and in good condition)
dull: anything less than the above - - if the cutters have encountered a little grit, a few swipes with a file, equally on both sides, should return it to 'sweet'
way dull: - ya stuck it in the ground, hit a piece of metal or rock in the tree, etc - in this case, grinding is the reasonable way to return it to sharp - - often the damage is worse on one side than the other, but both sides need to be reduced equally until the edge is fully exposed - and the depth (I cannot remember the name of the structure that regulates depth) may need to be adjusted...
I guess there is a fourth situation - 'worn out' - when the cutters have ground to the point there is no more material to remove...
your saw shop should be able to get you an appropiate file, they are common sizes - frankly, I don't mess around, if the chain isn't cutting well, I put on another one and take the dull one to the pros -
Try http://www.stihl.com
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/088.html
That is, in my humble opinion the greatest big-#### chain saw in the world, as well as Stihl is the best in chainsaws with husqvarna as a runner-up. I like their (Husqvarnas) cross-bikes better though, they even make sewing-machines.
Stihl only makes chain-saws...Love them. Mathias (from Germany). It does take up to 4 ft 11"long blades...Not specified for the US market
Edited 10/27/2003 5:00:03 AM ET by Matt
"Stihl only makes chain-saws...Love them."
I like 'em too, but they make a lot more than chainsaws.The rung of a ladder was never meant to rest upon, but only to hold a man's foot long enough to enable him to put the other somewhat higher. [Thomas H. Huxley]
Boss Hog you are right - I meant they are not as diversified as Husqvarna http://www.husqvarna.com motorcycles, sewing-machines
Btw: Beat the meat then (my american co-worker just told me about your meaningful language).Derr (Don´t try this at home)
Be sure to enlist at http://www.stihlusa.com/pressoffice/may03_2004forestry.html when you have finished that job.
Mathias
Foresty Heros, huh? - - I'll wear my cape then - - my dog thinks I'm a hero...
It was not my idea, come on...Just some marketing guy at Stihl.
David,
Have you tried the plunge cut method? It takes some practice but is much more affective than taking making many small notches.
Plunge cut...
1. Line up and cut felling notch (1/3 diameter)
2. Horizontally plunge tip of bar into the tree opposite the felling notch and slightly higher.( be mindful of kick back when starting this cut)
3. When (if) the tip of the bar goes thru to the felling notch withdraw it a (to leave a hinge to control felling direction) and sweep the tip of the bar left and right to "hog out" the wood in the center of the tree. Leave the outside of the tree in tact for now and widthdraw the bar.
4. Make a pair(or more) of cuts to the remaining wood, felling the tree as you would if you could cut all the way thru in one pass. As always leave the hinge to help control the tree during the fall.
Good luck, save some money.