Anyone who orders cellulose by the trailer load, approx what do you pay per bale? Doing some long term projections. Thanks
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Don't know now, but I was buying it by the pallet for about $5.25 two/three years ago. Came from Mountain Fiber in Murray Utah.
Now I'm in New Mexico, closest manufacturer is in Phoenix AZ. Been wondering the same thing but storing it is a problem. How much can I save vs what it cost me to save it.
I don't know of any place local to get it, HD has it but they're wanting $11+ for a 22# bale. Can't imagine paying that much.
Joe H
we buy it in 40 bale / pallet minimum
we pay $9/ for 25# bales... that's cell-pak... 100% borates... the urea treated costs lessMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Not much response here.
What are you looking at by the truckload?
56" trailer or smaller? How many pallets/bales?
What size bales? I see 22lbs here, I was buying 25lbs in Utah.
Bought a load of R-control once, came shrink wrapped in 3' stacks and they're a bunch of them in a trailer.
Gets cheap that way, but it's also a pain in the butt to deal with.
Joe H
Not a reply to the original question, but I usually pay about $9.25 for Applegate Cellulose at my local lumber yard. It comes in 30#bales, which are really compressed, much tighter than other suppliers, and is a pain to break up in the hopper compared to the 22 or 25# bales. The yard just changed to Green Fiber 25# at the same price. I only buy enough to do my own projects, one house at a time. My impression is that it is possible to get the material at much less in large quantities, maybe like $6 or so.I also got this quote yesterday from another supplierNFCPCELL Cel-Pak Cellulose - Boric, 25# $10.30/Bag
100-299 bags $10.00/Bag
300+ bags $9.75/Bag
CEL-SUP-PAL Supreme Celluose - Boric, 25# $10.00/Bag
100-299 bags $9.00/Bag
300+ bags $8.50/Bag
CEL-ADV-PAL Advantage Cellulose, 25# $9.75/Bag
100-299 bags $8.75/Bag
300+ bags $8.25/Bag Dick
On average a trailer load will cost somewhere between 25 to 28 cents per pound. I am interested in hearing about your "long range projections". I say this because I have encountered many that just wanted to blow attics because it was easy. To be successful in the biz you have to do it all.
Just blowing attics is sort of like a plumber that will only work on supply lines but not on drain lines.
Some may find the wholesale insulation business boring, but I have learned some interesting things over the years.
Griffin,My plan was basically to start small with blowing attics and air sealing, in conjunction with energy audits. Been doing BPI audits for a little while but there isn't much money in doing only audits. Most of what I see, with regards to low hanging fruit and quick ROI are envelope leakage to the attic and at rim/band joists in unfinished basements and under/poorly insulated attics. If I'm successful, I will move into blowing walls; possibly foam. Only retrofits, not new construction.Let me ask you this, as it has come up several times: Do you think customers would be willing to accept retrofit work from the person/company doing the blower door audit, or do they percieve this as a conflict of interest? Company I was doing audits for did only audits, but as far as conflict of interest, they had no problem accepting commissions and advertising dollars from companies who they steered clients to do retrofits.I say that the numbers will speak for themselves if you can show a significant reduction in air leakage. Course what I say doesn't matter, it is what the customer thinks and will they buy my services as a package.Also, I'd be interested in what you have learned over the years with regards to the insulation industry. Thanks.
There was a good article about this in JLC in the past six months. I may try to find it for you if you can't.Some of the saddest, emptiest people I have known are those who were raised to believe that they were above others. Even when among their peer group, they're not really happy because the bond which they share is easily broken, due to it's illusionary nature.
Read it, just saw the issue in my truck this afternoon. The most recent issue of Home Energy Magazine was dedicated to setting up and running a Building Performance Contracting company.http://www.homeenergy.org/index.php
How big a trailer, how many pallets?
How far from the manufacturer?
Joe H
Would you be willing to share some of your wisdom here? I am in a new (to me) house....cedar siding over 1" foam, FG in the studwalls, and all new Marvin windows, so the house feels very tight compared to my last one, but the unfinished attic has really deteriorated old cellulose, under old T& G flooring.
How would you approach adding more cellulose in the cavities....there are already quite a few "holes" in the T & G, but it's mostly sound, and a real pain to pull up.....
Thanks in advance.....
First a few questions: What is the current depth of the existing cellulose? What size are the floor joists? Is the entire attic floored or just certain sections?
Cellulose will shrink over time, but that should be allowed for during installation. Seems like in the 70's there was a federal program that allowed many to insulate formerly uninsulated attics for either a reduced cost or a no interest long term loan. I do not know the details for I was just a kid then. Anyway, they were minimally insulated and at that they shrank over time. I do alot of work reinsulating these houses.
It is sort of odd that regional preferences or so common. In my area most people want fiberglass insulation blown in. You almost can't give it away. People hear cellulose and just sneer saying "thats just ground up newspaper". I guess people are worried about the fire hazard even after they are told it is treated against burning.
Queen City. Cincinatti, right? I love em, but the Reds suck.
Queen city=Buffalo....and the Bills SUCK
Whole attic is floored. 2x 10 joists, maybe 4" of nasty, dirty fluff.
Don't really want to do any mods to increase the depth, just want to get as much as I can in the existing spaces....
Get a 4 or 5 inch hole saw, cut some holes. Get a cellulose blower and have at it. No need to remove the old stuff no matter what it is.
Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
Hmmm. I am know wondering how many cities go by the name "Queen City".
Patchdog is pretty much right. Cut you a hole in the flooring in each joist bay large enough to get the hose into. It is usually pretty easy to snake the hose under there about 6 to eight feet. Always be aware how much hose you have snaked back in there because often you will hit a bridge block or wiring that will hold the hose back.
You can get a blower and the cellulose from the local Lowes or Hd. If your job is of any size (800ft+) consider cutting the holes yourself ahead of time and get a local insulation contractor to do the work. Usually they will charge no more that it would cost you to buy the cellulose.