Replies

1. 
   JeffBuck | Dec 30, 2004 11:03pm | #1

   I love the DeWalt. Have had it since it first came out.

   for me .... nothing on the market beats the fence ... still.

   a sharp blade and a good feed rate and it'll cut anything that the table will hold ...

   I use it for everything from ripping PT 2x's down to building cabs ...

   for trim work ... it's fantastic.

   I remember way back when "close enough" was close enough ... because I didn't want to fight with aligning the fence again ...

   now ... need a smidgon shaved off? Just unlock ... turn the knob ever so slightly ... and lock her down ... piece of cake.

   Great saw.

   I have the trojan saw stand ... like that too.

   http://www.mytoolstore.com/trojan/troj07.html

    

   Jeff

     Buck Construction 

      Artistry in Carpentry

           Pgh, PA

1. 
   Homewright | Dec 31, 2004 12:37am | #2

   You're right.  That rack and pinion fence rocks...  The only thing I'd have to say against it, and I remember Piffin mentioning it once in another discussion is when you set the blade depth then start the saw, the blade will lower just a smidge.  If you're going for an exact depth of cut, you have to fiddle with it a couple times to get the setting just right.  Otherwise, I've used mine like you have.  Ripping 2x stock to fine cutting for cabinetry.  The dado I have works quite nicely too.  I'd love to try a hands on with the Bosch to see if I'd like it as well or possibly more.  But all in all, it's a good saw and I'd recommend it to the serious buyer...

1. 
   JeffBuck | Dec 31, 2004 01:40am | #3

   U struck on the one negative ...

   that ... and cranking that blade up get's tough ....

   I also have a dado set ... 6" freud anti-kickback ...

   works great .... ok .. that and a cheap wobble .. but it's usually the stacked that I use ....

   The other saw's tha compare are nice ... I've used all that I can think of at one time or another .... but I'll take the DeWalt Fence over anything else ...

    

   Jeff  Buck Construction 

      Artistry in Carpentry

           Pgh, PA

1. 
   MikeSmith | Dec 31, 2004 02:41am | #4

   i was looking at the rigid today in homers..

    good looking.. nice fence..

    seemed heavier than the competition ( not good .. i hate heavy )..

    $499 with the rolling stand..

   i still like the PC  or the BoschMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   AaronRosenthal | Dec 31, 2004 02:46am | #5

   Obviously IMRC has not seen this yet.
   I've never played with the DeWalt. Jeff and Mike use them and like them.
   All's I can say is that I have the Bosch and like I told rez before, when he asked about them, I'd buy mine again in a heartbeat.
   Soft startm lots of power and accurate.
   Truth is, they are both good.
   Rigid?
   Well, maybe. I don't know it at all.Quality repairs for your home.

   Aaron the HandymanVancouver, Canada

    

2. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 31, 2004 03:09am | #6

   If you can outline all the possible uses for the tablesaw I will give you the answer.

   YCF Dino

1. 
   user-45343 | Dec 31, 2004 05:42am | #12

   Hey YCFriend thanks for the response and all the other guys also. About the table saw. Right now I do a lot of floors and minor carpentry around the house. I own a couple of homes and basically do all the repairs my self from electric to pluming to whatever it takes including going down to bare studs and starting from scratch. I want to get more into building my own cabinets and built- ins. What I basically want is to the buy the best saw that will last me as my experience grows and I take on bigger projects I want to be sure the saw I buy will last, and in four years not say dam I should have bought that other saw. It also needs to be a saw I can transport to different locations when necessary or just keep in one place. I guess I need the best of both worlds if possible. I believe in buying quality tools and properly maintaining them so I don't mind spending a little extra. Both these saws are in the price range I'm looking for and I believe are capable of giving me years of performance. I appreciate all the responses I've gotten.                                       Thanks for your help.

   Edited 12/30/2004 10:42 pm ET by Santi

1. 
   Joe_Fusco | Dec 31, 2004 06:18am | #13

   Santi,

   Well that's a saw of a different color. You might want one of these.

1. 
   user-45343 | Dec 31, 2004 06:46am | #14

   hey Joe thanks for the pic but from that pic it doesn't look like it's going to be a lot of fun or easy to carry that saw up a couple flights of stairs. Can you give me a little bit more info thanks.

1. 
   Joe_Fusco | Dec 31, 2004 06:57am | #15

   Santi,

   Sure.

   That is/was my PM66. I'm just moving in a natural direction from your last post. Any saw that you would like to eventually make cabinets with is going to be hard to go up and down stairs with ;-)

   I thought you were looking for something to do light duty and that's why I suggested the Hitachi. You might need one of the upeer level contractor type saws like Powermatic, Jet, Grizzy, Delta, or General.

   Edited 12/30/2004 10:59 pm ET by Joe

2. 
   WHATSUPCHUCK | Dec 31, 2004 07:29pm | #20

   Hey,

   Tha hitachi is a nice saw; well engineered and plenty of power but the fence is a piece of crap. Can I say that here? I'm looking for an after market add on but since its my take to the job site saw and I've learned to deal with it I'll probably just keep using it as is. Happy New Year! Chuck

3. 
   Joe_Fusco | Dec 31, 2004 07:37pm | #22

   Chuck,

   I agree, it is a piece of crap, but it works. Once I get it set it stays there (unless I wack it). If you find and AMF let me know.

4. 
   PaulBinCT | Dec 31, 2004 07:41pm | #23

   Santi,

   I didn't realize there were 2 "Which Table Saw" threads going on.  From what you're describing I'd seriously consider the SmartGuide from Eurekazone, which has been the subject of many threads, here and other forums.  I have two of their setups and love love love them.  IMHO they are a very worthwhile alternative to a TS for your applications... (http://www.eurekazone.com)

   Paul

   Edited 12/31/2004 11:55 am ET by PaulB

2. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 31, 2004 06:25pm | #17

   What is that? A floating table on the table saw? Sliding table so you don't scratch the finish?

   And the level with the clamps?

   YCF Dino

1. 
   Joe_Fusco | Dec 31, 2004 06:45pm | #18

   Dino,

   It's a method I use to square up large panels on my table saw.

2. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 31, 2004 06:55pm | #19

   What about the splintering on the bottom side?

3. 
   Joe_Fusco | Dec 31, 2004 07:33pm | #21

   Dino,

   There isn't any to speak of.

   The technique is to acquire two edges that are square so that you can then trim the panel to proper size. If there were to be tear out that was unacceptable, you would simply account for it when trimming the opposite sides and then re-cut the damaged sides.

   Some of the ways that I deal with tear out is;

   I use an 80 tooth HATB blade and rise it high enough to eliminate tear out on the underside of the panel. In cases where the tear is still a little more then I'd like, I apply a piece of masking tape to the underside of the panel. If I still don't like it see the first paragraph. And lastly, the underside is the "no show side".

4. 
   dinothecarpenter | Dec 31, 2004 08:17pm | #24

   JOE,

   There isn't any to speak of.So, why you have to deal with tear out if there isn't any to speak of?Some of the ways that I deal with tear out is; I use an 80 teeth HATB blade and rise it high enough to eliminate tear out on the underside of the panel. In cases where the tear is still a little more then I'd like, I apply a piece of masking tape to the underside of the panel. If I still don't like it see the first paragraph. And lastly, the underside is the "no show side".

   how much you pay for the 80 tooth HATB blade? I use any blade that you can imagine to stop the tear out and I end up using masking tape after 2-3 cuts. The only way to have a clean cut in your table saw is a good zero clearance insert and tape.

   It seems to me A lot of work to trim and re-trim/square and try to figure out the back side every time. And the other problem that I can see is walking around the tablesaw all day.

   The tablesaw is good for repeat production work and not to cut panels or any trim and fit applications on the job site.(tapered cuts)

   YCF Dino

5. 
   rez | Dec 31, 2004 08:42pm | #25

   heh heh 

6. 
   Joe_Fusco | Dec 31, 2004 09:02pm | #26

   DINO,

   It seems you have some free time on your hands. . .

   First I'll address your inability to read.

   I said in cases where the tear out is a little more then I'd like. . . Every woodworker deals with tear out at some point and there are many different ways to deal with it. I'd like to have a scoring blade on my saw but I don't. (I notice you didn't mention a scoring blade) why is that?

   You seem to echo all that I said as far as the way you deal with tear out so I don't get your point. If you would have been more observant you would have noticed that I have a zero clarence insert in the saw at the time I took the pictures.

   As for the price of the blade I guess it was about $150.00 and once again I fail to see the point.

   Lastly, just what does these ridiculous statements mean. . .

   "It seems to me A lot of work to trim and re-trim/square and try to figure out the back side every time. And the other problem that I can see is walking around the table saw all day.

   The table saw is good for repeat production work and not to cut panels or any trim and fit applications on the job site.(tapered cuts)"

   I think the concept is a bit beyond you so have a great new year.

   Edited 12/31/2004 1:03 pm ET by Joe

7. 
   rez | Dec 31, 2004 09:03pm | #27

   oh oh. 

8. 
   Joe_Fusco | Dec 31, 2004 09:14pm | #28

   rez,

   You seem to think you know where this is going ;-)

   Well I'd hate to disappoint you but, that's all I have to say to Dino. . .

9. 
   rez | Dec 31, 2004 09:16pm | #29

   WARNING!!!

   Bagel Alert!!! 

10. 
    reinvent | Dec 31, 2004 10:52pm | #32

    I hope they have a clause in the contract that if the client ask for lox its gona more than double the price.

11. 
    dinothecarpenter | Dec 31, 2004 09:59pm | #30

    Joe. Whaouuu. Take it Ez my friend.

     Rez. .you Devil.  hey hey and ho ho.

    It seems you have some free time on your hands. . . Yes. and I use all of it to make things EZ. Is my job.

    First I'll address your inability to read. To read what? you either have or you don't have a tear out. hence the $150.00 blade and the tape.I said in cases where the tear out is a little more then I'd like. . . Every woodworker deals with tear out at some point and there are many different ways to deal with it. I'd like to have a scoring blade on my saw but I don't. (I notice you didn't mention a scoring blade) why is that?

    Because the original poster is asking for a portable table saw. And I have few saws with scoring blades that we ...disconnect. They only work on high quality/ expensive machines and we never have the extra money to buy them.

    You seem to echo all that I said as far as the way you deal with tear out so I don't get your point. If you would have been more observant you would have noticed that I have a zero clarence insert in the saw at the time I took the pictures.

    Yes. I echo what make sense to me. My point is why lose the zero clearance with the sled?As for the price of the blade I guess it was about $150.00 and once again I fail to see the point.

    The point is that no blade alone can stop the chip out.Lastly, just what does these ridiculous statements mean. . .

    "It seems to me A lot of work to trim and re-trim/square and try to figure out the back side every time. And the other problem that I can see is walking around the table saw all day.The table saw is good for repeat production work and not to cut panels or any trim and fit applications on the job site.(tapered cuts)"

    Ok. Let me try to explain the above statement. remember the original poster ?

    PORTABLE.- JOB SITE

     And happy new year to you , Rez. and all Breaktimers.

    And still YCF Dino

     

     

    Edited 12/31/2004 2:35 pm ET by YCFriend

2. 
   gdavis62 | Dec 31, 2004 10:39pm | #31

   I agree with the Festool recommendation.  For the work you described, it would do it all, and for absolute portability, it cannot be beat.  If you outfit it with the dust control vacuum, you won't believe how clean you can be in creating all that sawdust.

   Their table rig will enable the saw to do precision crosscutting and squaring.

   But you'll spend more than by going with a portable table saw like the Bosch, Ridgid, or Dewalt.

   Let's face it, though.  You have that long term goal of doing cabinet and furniture and built-in work, presumably at a high level, and for that you are going to need a bigger budget and a cabinet saw.  The Unisaw is the standard, you can get lower priced units like the Woodtek and Grizzly, or you can go with Powermatic's model.

   You can do OK work along those lines, with a nice heavy contractors saw, from folks like Delta, Jet, Grizzly, Powermatic, Woodtek, and more.  In either case here, whether you go for the cabinet unit (later in life), or the contractor saw, you will want a good fence unit, plus side and rear extension tables.

   But let's look at cash flow.  For $200, you can get that Hitachi table saw with portable stand, and do most everything you want to do right now.  If you were ready to spring for the Bosch, you have five c-notes in your wallet.  Get the Hitachi for two bills, and bank the other three.  Call the $300 your big shop saw fund.

1. 
   MikeSmith | Jan 01, 2005 12:53am | #36

   gene.. i spent a lot of time looking at the festool setup...

    then i bought the EZ Guide

   if you set your base on an 8 1/4 " saw you will have the same plunge cut capabilities as the  55mm Festool  plunge cut...

   and  i would sure use that for squaring panels before i'd set up my table saw that way..

    that was a pretty clever use of the table saw.. but so unneccesary if you have and EZ Guide Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   gdavis62 | Jan 01, 2005 01:51am | #38

   You must be talking about the EZ Smart guide and tool base, Mike.

   Do you use it much? 

   How? 

   Do two 50-inch guides stay in alignment with the key, for full-length cuts on 96" panels?  No wobble at all?

    

2. 
   MikeSmith | Jan 01, 2005 02:03am | #39

   i don't use it much.. but i've use it enough to know that it has changed the way i'm going to build built-ins  and box  columns..

   anything that needs sheet goods ripped will be cut on the EZ

   anything that needs a taper will be cut on the EZ..

   any long rips  or anything that is awkward on the tablesaw...

   say i was going to panel a room.. i'd do it with the EZ..

   all my shooter boards will gather dust...

   i still like my table saw.. don't get me wrong..

   but anything you can do with the festool guide and the dedicated festool saw.. i can do with the EZ...

   and Roy likes it too... so ?

   putting the two 50" pcs together is  a snap.. and they act like one..

    the clamping system is superb..all i all.. i'm very happy with EZ

   Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   Edited 12/31/2004 6:05 pm ET by Mike Smith

3. 
   user-45343 | Dec 31, 2004 11:49pm | #33

   What happened? I sent you a response and you start going off someplace else with Joe.

   Edited 12/31/2004 3:55 pm ET by Santi

1. 
   rez | Jan 01, 2005 12:02am | #34

   ...What happened?...

   Minor sidetrack. Happens all the time.

   By the way Santi, I see your new here so Welcome to Breaktime.

   Pretty good advice on the saw question. 

   Looks like you're about right on the money with Bosch or Dewalt. But if you want to reseach it a bit more there is a wealth of experience found in the archives in the Breaktime threads of yore.

   If you scroll down in the lower left corner of your screen there is a search function that will take you to previous threads dealing with whatever you type in the search bar.

   If you type in 'table saw' or other keywords of the subject matter you'll get a good supply of data from those old posts.

   Cheers

     

    

   Edited 12/31/2004 4:19 pm ET by rez

1. 
   user-45343 | Jan 01, 2005 09:22pm | #43

   Rez, Thanks for that little tip. I did go back and found a lot of useful discussions on table saws. I've been trying to figure out which saw to buy for a while but I'm pretty sure which one to get now.

   Thanks Again

2. 
   ladogboy | Jan 02, 2005 09:02am | #48

   You might want to check out the Craftsman from Sears. I was trying to decide between the Bosch and the DeWalt, too. I was suprised by the Craftsman with the 4.4 HP (max) motor. I think the same company is building the Porter Cable saw. The Craftsman has a reasonably good fence, is very portable, comes with two inserts, has an effective port for a vac, and sets up quickly with its own integral legs and wheels. Mine was on sale for about $239 and I've been very pleased. One suggestion is to buy a portable roller stand (I have the Rockler) to help with the outfeed when ripping full size sheets of ply. I've made several cabinets with this saw and have been quite pleased. Plus, the Sears extended warranty is better than what the others offer. 

3. 
   IMERC | Jan 01, 2005 09:27pm | #44

   DW still hasn't fixed their adjustor problem...

   nor Mak...

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!!   What a Ride!

4. 
   Snort | Jan 02, 2005 02:36am | #45

   I have the DeWalt, the EZSmart, and a Unisaw.The DeWalt's a lot better than the Delta's I used to run...for 500 beans it oughta be. I've been running the bejezzus out of it for over six years...gotten way more than my money's worth out of it, but I still wouldn't call it a great saw. My fence goes out of wack, one of the bolts that hold the outfeed end of fence stripped out of the pot metal it was threaded into, it doesn't take a full dadoe set...but the sucker does a damn good job, and I never go to a job without it. I would like to try the Bosch, though.The EZ Smart will never replace a table saw, for me, but it is one danged handy, and accurate gizmo. I've only been using mine for a month, but I am impressed. I cut down some pre-hung door frames (had to screw on some blocks so the clamps could clamp to something), it'll pay for it self on this job. Cross cutting birch veneer doors is slick as a whistle, no tear out. I'm going to cut some tapered jamb extensions next week...but it has it's problems. I over tightened the set screws that fasten the splines the first time I used it, I was trying to get the sections to join "rock solidly"...turns out they don't have to. The whole thing is big, and there are parts to keep up with, with a 7 1/4" saw you can't cut a 1 3/4" door, and you've got to modify the base so a Milwaukee Tilt-Loc's guard works as a guard.Squaring up panels with the EZ Guide would totally depend on how you would measure, I use something similar to Joe's method, seems much more fool-proof...which is mostly what I have to "proof" against<G>The only problem with the Unisaw is that I can't get it to the jobs<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!

5. 
   dinothecarpenter | Jan 02, 2005 06:27am | #47

   Who needs directions???   when Ez D is here.

   Use some Teflon tape on the set screws so they don't come lose. If you overtight the connectors you may have have a cosmetic issue to remind you about...directions. No problem with the performance.

   You can trim an 1-3/4 door if you remove the   EAC-1 antichip plastic edge and use the EzSmart as an edge guide and the AC-1 (The flat insert) on the base.

   About keeping the parts together ask paulB and MSmth about a rifle case. Next week we will have some aluminum cases for the Ez Smart but I think the plastic ones may be better for the job site.

   If you do bevel cuts figure out the offset with a test cut and don't use the plastic edges. better keep them for the straight cuts so you don't lose the bidirectional benefit on the majority of the cuts.

   And keep your table saw. One day you can make a nice table with it.(for the Ez)

   And have your credit card ready for the new sliding fence/square that it will measure and square the EZ without a tape measure clamps or square.

   Happy new year and thanks for keeping new ideas alive. Thanks to Joe we may have something new on the tablesaws and thanks to Breaktime for not kicking me out.

   happy new year to all.

   YCf Dino

6. 
   Snort | Jan 03, 2005 01:40am | #49

   Now you know why we keep you around<G> How about a preview of this self-squaring dealie? I need all the help I can get...LOL.I'll check out a rifle case when the cardboard box wears out...I just wish I could remember how those clamps fit in there????Hey, you are definitly pushing a worthwhile product, I thank myself for buying it everytime I use it! Don't worry, we can fix that later!

7. 
   MikeSmith | Jan 03, 2005 01:54am | #50

   snort... paulb sent me to Sports Authority.. i got the plastic one with the soft foam insert... brought the EZ in the store to make sure they fit...i think i got a great discontinued one for a bout $30... the regulars were like $70

   the gun dept . guy is a carp... probably sold him one too !

   oh, yeah.... both guides and the clamps fit in the case.... if i  sit on it

   Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

   Edited 1/2/2005 5:55 pm ET by Mike Smith

8. 
   Snort | Jan 03, 2005 03:46am | #54

   Good idea, bring your EZ Guide with you on your next winter run to Charlotte, I'll take you out to the po-lice range, show 'em what real straight shootin' is... mine's hooked up to a 12 ga. Milwaukee, ha, ha, ha<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!

9. 
   dinothecarpenter | Jan 03, 2005 02:24am | #51

   Thanks Billy. The problem with the Fence/square is that we can't keep one prototype in stock. before we finalize the dumb thing,someone shows up and takes it. Give me two to three more weeks.

   About the case. Imagine yourself shown up to work with this.

   https://www.mezzi.com/showfull.php?prodid=60&c=1

     

   Edited 1/2/2005 6:39 pm ET by YCFriend

10. 
    Snort | Jan 03, 2005 03:39am | #52

    Tha case is nice, will my cardboard box fit in it? LOL Don't worry, we can fix that later!

11. 
    dinothecarpenter | Jan 03, 2005 03:44am | #53

    Do you notice anything about the cardboard box? 

12. 
    Snort | Jan 03, 2005 03:47am | #55

    It's corrugated? Don't worry, we can fix that later!

13. 
    dinothecarpenter | Jan 03, 2005 03:56am | #56

    It was design to open like a case. so you can ask for one later.

    James Bond stuff.  Self distrust.

    I ask and pay for the heaviest paper available...and look what you got.

    YCF Dino

14. 
    Snort | Jan 03, 2005 04:18am | #57

    Case closed, ha, ha, ha! Don't worry, we can fix that later!

15. 
    dinothecarpenter | Jan 03, 2005 05:58am | #58

    Oh Men!!! this is funny. you have no idea what I do to the boxes.

    First I destroy them.Then I open them and ....duct tape. So when I have the chance to design my own box...I spend weeks if not months to make it EZ to open and be use as a temporary case.

    After few thousand cases only one lady woodworker notice that. and PaulB. 

     Funny? I don't know how to react. cardboard? yes. self align connectors and instructions? Do you have any idea how much time and money I spend in order for you to throw the directions in the garbage and make cosmetic marks on my EZ? 

    you remind me of someone that ii know very well and he's very much like you.

    ME. I should knew me better than that and don't waste so much time and money

    For connectors that they self align with out any force and for boxes that open by themselves.

    Thanks for remind ME.

    YCF EZDino

16. 
    Snort | Jan 04, 2005 01:47am | #59

    That's what I'm here for, buddy!...and speaking of buddies, I lent the EZ Guide to one today, he had to cut off some door bottoms... you may be getting another order soon<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!

17. 
    dinothecarpenter | Jan 04, 2005 05:16am | #60

    From who?

    This is not the first time that someone lost a buddy. (and the ez)

2. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jan 01, 2005 12:43am | #35

   Santi,

   The next question is what are you looking to spend? The Festools are excellent but will cost you upwards of $1000.00 for a vaccuum, jigsaw and a saw. You still need to buy the rails. . . The shop package is over $1600.00. Just make sure that whatever you buy you don't get any tear out ;-)

3. 
   dinothecarpenter | Jan 01, 2005 01:07am | #37

   Sandi. Nothing to do with your response.

   Joe give me an idea that needs to be challenge.

   Is nothing personal. I saw the picture and I thought of an application.

   (But I always forget how much we're in love with the tablesaws) :)

   YCf dino

   Edit. Typos.

   Edited 12/31/2004 5:30 pm ET by YCFriend

3. 
   Joe_Fusco | Dec 31, 2004 03:36am | #7

   I purchased this saw about a month ago and it's working out fairly well. I paid $200.00 for it at Lowe's.
   
   Don't get me wrong this is not the saw to end all saws, but the price was right, it's easy to use, comes with a stand and cuts straight. You can read the spec here.

1. 
   rez | Dec 31, 2004 03:46am | #9

   Joe, don't stop there with the review.

   Besides price and ease, what are the cons for the $200 saw.

   Can it rip a 2x without a lot of trouble? 

1. 
   Joe_Fusco | Dec 31, 2004 03:54am | #10

   It's a bit load, but not to bad. It can easily rip a 2 by. It has one adjustable leg so you can steady the saw. Has a descent miter gauge. It has a back extension to help support long/wide stock whick also has an additional support leg.

2. 
   jrnbj | Jan 01, 2005 08:01pm | #40

   Hey, is that Hitachi, with a stand, for $200!!??? sounds like a steal deal to me...Would you let me know....thanks....

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Jan 01, 2005 08:12pm | #41

   Gene, I use mine all the time and I can tell you that I get zero "wobble", deflection, flexing whatever you want to label it on full 96" cuts.  The connectors are solid as a rock...

2. 
   Joe_Fusco | Jan 01, 2005 08:15pm | #42

   Here's the deal. . . When I bought it, it was $199.00 then, about a month later Lowe's had a super 20% off sale on all power tools so I brought my receipt back and they gave me $40.00 bucks back!You can still buy it for $199.00 today a Lowe's

1. 
   jrnbj | Jan 02, 2005 05:50am | #46

   So it is Hitachi?

4. 
   Jemcon | Dec 31, 2004 03:42am | #8

   Just bought the Bosch with stand 500.00. This saw is great. I used it all day today. I have a powermatic 64 in the shop and the bosch is as good. Maybe i'll sell the powermatic. Naa, I need at least two of everything.

5. 
   MSA1 | Dec 31, 2004 05:28am | #11

   I was standing exactly where you are about a month ago. For me it finally came down to the Bosch. I think they are both good saws but I heard more good about the Bosch. I've heard Dewalts fence can be problematic if not maintained.

   I would certainly recomend the Bosch.

6. 
   ahneedhelp | Dec 31, 2004 06:58am | #16

   http://www.festool-usa.com/

   Do yourself a favor and carefully study the ATF-55 plunge cut saw and rail system.
   Also, take a look at the saw and vaccuum (CT-22) package.

   Take your time.

   (And if you do buy something from Festool, order direct from them.)

   Good luck.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/30/2004 10:59 pm ET by Ahneedhelp

7. 
   tungle | Jan 04, 2005 09:44am | #61

   Santi, I'm agree what Jeff said about the yellow,I got one at Lowe's when they have 20%off. The reason I chose DeWALT because it is the last portable table saw that made in the U.S.I got the 15Amp,but when I came home ,unpacked it and didn't see made in U.S like the 13Amp. I came came back to the store to find the 13Amp but they sold out all of the 13Amp.I checked all local Lowe's but they all sold out the 13Amp. I will return mine and buy a Delta through Sear. I'm new in carpentry, but I know that if you want the saw that last,go with the saw that has induction motor.
   Good luck
   tung le

1. 
   user-45343 | Jan 05, 2005 10:12am | #62

   hey tungle, If you are going to sears I beleive they carry the 13 amp. The sears buy me carrys the DeWalt table saw 13 amp.