Replies

1. 
   Piffin | May 25, 2005 08:37pm | #1

   I'll first suggest that you use the advanced search feature here ( see top of left column) to searcch the breaktime forum for past discussions on this subject.. We have ahd several good discussions over there recently.

   The first thing is to decide which look you want. There are methoids that can deal with either appearance - rustic face nailing, or smooth and fine finish. You can also coundtersink screws and fill with plugs and sand off before stain and finish.

   Most rental yards have flooring nailers acvvailable.

   Your biggest problem will be the vacilating humidity. The key is to prevent the wood from absorbing the moisture out of the air. That starts with drying it to 11% or less, then sealing with a sanding sealer or shellac on both sides and edges.

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   AndrewW | May 26, 2005 08:43pm | #4

   Thanks for the info.  Assuming I will face nail, what are your thoughts on adhesive vs. paper?  I know glue will help with the potential cupping, but if I don't if I do not use paper will I be risking major potential squeaks?

    

1. 
   Piffin | May 27, 2005 04:52am | #5

   Sweakscan come from three different sources. Wood/wood between flooring and subfloor.Wood/wood between two adjacent pieces of flooring.Nail/wood as a piece of flooring slides up and down on a nail.Doing a good job of gluing it down will eliminate the first and last of those sqeaks, and go a long way to preventing the second one.Using resin paper will only eliminate the most common one - the first.Additionally, the glue will make it more likely that you eliminate cupping o0f these wide boards.There is a disadvantage to using glue to hold down a floor though. It will try to hold the wood exctly where it is placed and fastened to cure. Then when the wood shrinks in dry season, there is a possibility of creating a check/split in the center of the board. That can happen too with face nailed flooring, but there is a technique for preventing it then.When I decide that a gluedown is called for, I use Bostik wood flooring glue. It comes as a trowelable mastic in three gallon containers, and stinks to high heaven, but it isa formulated to allow a small amt of movement to prevent splitting. That all depends on how well stabilized the wood is before you install, and what the climatic extremes are that it willl experience. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   AndrewW | Jun 01, 2005 05:12pm | #7

   Thank you, this was very helpful.  Started to lay the floors down this past weekend.  Using glue and face nailing.  Coming out great so far. 

2. 
   PatMcG | May 26, 2005 05:07pm | #2

   Our pine floors suffer because we live in a rural township with "chip and tar" roads. The gravel chips are just the right size to get stuck in shoe sole treads and gouge the floors. Any day I don't double check my feet before going indoors is a day I do more damage. (The claws on a 70 lb dog don't help much either.)

   I bring this up because you mentioned a beach community. Will you have a similar problem with sand?

1. 
   AndrewW | May 26, 2005 08:38pm | #3

   Probably will have the same issue with sand.  We are expecting these floors to get pretty beat up, so we've told ourselves that the dings and scratches will be part of the "rustic" look.   I guess we'll see.

3. 
   wango | May 28, 2005 05:51pm | #6

   I'm in agreement with piffin, but  would go farther to say I wouldn't do it. You are asking for trouble. You have a highly dimensionally unstable wood, add to the the extremely wide widths, and now throw in that your on a lakeshore. NO WAY! If you must, I would cut the flooring down to 3" at most. This will allow you to blind nail, have more gaps for the floor to expand in, and not curl up like a scroll when the moisture gets in. See the N.O.F.M.A. website for details.