FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Wide (very wide) Plank Flooring

quicksilver | Posted in General Discussion on July 9, 2015 05:43am

Hi All. I am faced with the atypical task, at least in my area of managing a hard wood floor project that will consist of super wide reclaimed boards. The board are at this point surfaced two sides and are 7/8″ thick, 18″ wide and about 14′ long.  I just got through a meeting with some potential installers. They seemed to have a game plan but there were in my opinion a few red flags. Here is a quick rundown of their approach. They will have the boards jointed and have tongue and grooves milled. Also they will have a slight bevel ran at the top edges. The ends will be grooved for splines. They will deliver the boards to the (conditioned) site and stack them with “stickers” to separate the boards to allow air flow and allow the boards to acclimate for a week. To take from an unconditionioned to a conditioned space and expect the boards to acclimate in a week seems to me a too abrupt temperature/humidity change in too short of a time. Then they will install by gluing and nailing through the tongues. The gluing is a red flag. It was my mistake not to find out more about that procedure during the meeting. To give them the benefit of the doubt I am assuming they are spot gluing where the glue would take the place of a face nail rather than trowelling the glue under the entire board. Also the chamfers were a red flag because this would indicate that the would not be sanding in place. And this of course would mean each board would need completely sanded before installation and very consistent board thickness would be required.  Also there are two floating staircases on metal frames with the treads attached with four 3/4″ X 5/16 lags at abour four inches from each edge. They suggested showing the end grain rather than mitering in returns. Does anyone have experience with this type of install?  These treads I fear, as I fear the wide boards ingeneral, are in danger of cupping. The stock is oak reclaimed from a cider mill and I am assuming it is very old. The job is very high end. The boards at this time have nail holes with oxidized iron stains. I know my client well. He may like the character of these boards but he will demand a pristine installation. Any thoughts or further questions are more than welcome. Also I’d like you add that this is a great client of mine who is very reasonable.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. User avater
    deadnuts | Jul 09, 2015 11:17pm | #1

    Your flooring lumber will only change dimension (and perhaps shape) with changes in moisture content. Rougly 1% change in dimension for every 4% in moisture content change. Acclimation time and temperature are not the most relevant factors; it depends mainly on MC delta. If there is no delta, then there is no acclimation time needed. Continuoulsy control the moisture content and you control the stability of your flooring. With 18" wide stock at 7/8" thick, that's easier said then done.  If you don't own a good moisture meter and hygrometer, then buy 'em. You'll need them. I also hope that you client has complete annual control of the dwelling's relative humidity. You'll need that as well. In short, It's an incomplete game plan if you don't plan to document and monitor MC & RH every step of the project-- and warranty period.

    1. quicksilver | Jul 10, 2015 09:32am | #4

      Hi again. As I think about this, how would one quantify 1% change I dimension?  Shrinking? warping? Both?  Is that a lot or a little. Thanks again. 

  2. quicksilver | Jul 10, 2015 08:10am | #2

    Thanks for the good advice. The humidity in the space is regulated by a steam unit as part of the HVAC system. I will definately be aware of the moisture content. To my surprise he purchased the stock yesterday in Waynesboro Pa. 

    1. User avater
      deadnuts | Jul 10, 2015 06:36pm | #6

      Perhaps a steam unit can regulate how much moisture gets introduced to the conditioned space, but how are you going to regulate R.H. if it needs to be reduced?.

      1. quicksilver | Jul 10, 2015 10:26pm | #9

        I talked to him today about the humidity factor. If the above is correct 1% dimensional change per 4% RH change and the humidity range from winter to summer is 45% to 60% that's 4% dimensional change after install. Let alone bringing the humidity level down from a unconditioned warehouse to the conditioned home. I saw a couple samples of the stock today that were planed down to 7/8". There were still band saw marks visible. I am not sure they can even get 3/4" inch out of it. We'll see. I am trying to walk the thin line between naysayer and cautious pragmatist. 

        1. User avater
          deadnuts | Jul 10, 2015 09:32pm | #8

          The 4% change is in moisture content, not relative humidity. Two different animals. So, for example, if your warehouse conditions have the wood at 10% M.C. and it acclimates to 6% in the home (not unreallistic), then your width dimensional change is 1% of 18". Or, iIn other words, over 1/8" in potential shrinkage for each plank.  Add that up for each plank across the floor and (depending on your installation technique) you have a receipe for disaster in terms of wood stress being resolved at fastening points, checking, or gappage at each plank.

          If you're a pragmatist, you'll start documenting existing conditions (both the wood itself and environmental conditios of the warehouse and conditioned home) as soon as possible.

  3. DanH | Jul 10, 2015 08:25am | #3

    I don't see how you can get a sound installation of planks that wide without face nailing.

  4. Norman | Jul 10, 2015 10:10am | #5

    Just one week?

    My 2 1/4" red oak floor sat for two weeks in my home before it was installed. Your wood is almost 9 x larger.

    IMH DIYer opinion, I would want a lot more time than just  a single  week.

    Good luck.

  5. quicksilver | Jul 10, 2015 07:45pm | #7

    Thanks to everyone for your thoughts!

    1. calvin | Jul 11, 2015 07:22am | #10

      Quick

      http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/calculators/calc.pl?calculator=shrinkage

  6. oldhand | Jul 11, 2015 10:49am | #11

    I wouldn't think it reasonable to use 18" wide oak boards as flooring and not expect some issues down the line no matter how careful the science used in mosture management.

    If the client is even a little fussy I'd predict dissatisfaction sooner or later.

    Wood is a natural amazing substance and needs to be appreciated and respected for what it is. 

    1. quicksilver | Jul 11, 2015 01:45pm | #12

      Thanks for the input. I have talked to him several times about what he can reasonably expect from the stock. He says he understands and will accept it for what it is. 

    2. quicksilver | Jul 11, 2015 01:45pm | #13

      Thanks for the input. I have talked to him several times about what he can reasonably expect from the stock. He says he understands and will accept it for what it is. 

  7. quicksilver | Jul 11, 2015 01:49pm | #14

    As an update to the original post. I found out the installers were planning on troweling the glue under the full board with this product. wakol ms 290.  He says he used it successfully before. I need to research it but thought if anyone has experience with it they can chime in. 

  8. oldhand | Jul 12, 2015 04:03pm | #15

    maybe...

    I've never glued a wood floor so I can't really say but it seems if there  was some magic adhesive that was flexible enough to move back and forth with the boards maybe it would work. I don't know of such a magic substance and would be suspicious of claims. 

    But what do I know?  Once a client wanted me to put down a floor with 9 and 11" boards. I told him it probably wouldn't work well but if you insist....

    The boards were reclaimed old growth fir [ that improved the odds] and we splined each edge, face gun nailed it with a framing gun and filled the nail holes with custom colored filler.  It came out great and still looks good 12 years later. So maybe I am wrong now and then...... 

  9. quicksilver | Jul 15, 2015 07:32am | #16

    Myself and just about everyone I know feels the same way but I felt I should explore the adhesive the installers recommended. It is called Wakol ms 290. I talked to some venders in Vermont and New Hampshire where I am assuming wide planks are installed more often. The consensus was this was a great product to use. I talked to the rep in my area and he was convincing too. There spec sheet covers relative humidity change in the home and it wasn't the normal range . Our goal is to get the moisture content to within 2% of the existing subfloor before installation. After all the discussion I had I am leaning toward having grooves milled on both sides and using splines. Using screws ran through a plywood block to pull out any cups or warps and removing the screws after the glue is set. 

  10. DanH | Jul 15, 2015 07:50am | #17

    Two somewhat contradictory observations:

    1. It's my impression that the seasonal change in lumber dimensions (driven by humidity) is reduced somewhat (perhaps by half) as the lumber ages.  So using reclaimed wood might conceivably reduce the concern about seasonal change (though if this wood is ripped from beams vs being simply planed from old lumber then it would have some of the attributes of "new lumber").

    2. With wide planks there is a danger that shrinkage could amount to more than the length of the tongue, resulting in adjacent planks coming totally disconnected from each other.

  11. User avater
    deadnuts | Jul 17, 2015 08:01am | #18

    They're not contradictory because the first one is false. Wood does not lose the abiltiy to shrink and swell with moisture over time--unless it is rotten.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Choosing a Paintbrush

Tips for picking the right paintbrush based on paint type, surface, and personal comfort.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Midcentury Home for a Modern Family
  • The New Old Colonial
  • Modern and Minimal in the Woods
  • Bryce Hollingsworth, Dry-Stone Waller

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 333 - August/September 2025
    • A Practical Perfect Wall
    • Landscape Lighting Essentials
    • Repairing a Modern Window Sash
  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data