Window casing/flashing det. panel siding
Waters
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I’m looking at a set of plans where the upper story of the little studio has structural panel’ siding–like T-111–with battens nailed to it. No sheathing.
How are the windows to be installed and flashed properly?
One rec. was to nail the flanges to the siding/sheathing panel, flashing tape over them, rabbet the back of the casings and vulkem the casing to the panel.
I don’t knowif I like that so much…
Another suggestion was to kerf the panel above the head casing and let in some z metal..
I know I don’t like that so much…
and what? Housewrap the studs before the panel siding?
Any suggestions?
Below has conventional sheathing and siding.
Replies
Let us know if you figure this one out.
I will say that you should be careful if using vycor or similar flashing tape and any solvent based sealant (such as Vulkem). The solvent in the sealant will react with the vycor, causing it to turn into a black, gooey, tar-like substance that can run down the wall especially on a hot day. If you go this route, I'd test the compatability of your flashing tape and sealant before sticking it on the wall.
Keep us posted.
The sealant shouldn't contact the vycor, presumably. I would plan to tape the flanges only. Then the casing over that, and seal the casing to the window (casing is stood off the window cladding by 3/16 for this) and the casing to the panel.
the windows get installed on the framing.. and flashed
the structural sheathing then gets installed
same details as for T-1-11....
sucks, don't it ?
Yeah, that totally sucks. Stupid constr. in my opinion. Putting the windows behind the panel blows b/c then they're trapped...with a nice gap to suck water.
Since you are looking at a set of plans, call up the architect and ask him to send you a window installation detail...then do it that way and be done with it.
If these plans are from some home magazine book, then I'd go with the 2 recommendations you cited earlier...install window flanges over top of T-111, tape, rabbet casings and caulk. And I would definately install Z strip overtop of head casing...that is "old school" and it also works.
As for Mike Smith's suggestion, I personally wouldn't go that rout. I think with that method there is a chance for water infiltration down near the sill. Mike may have a better flashing technique than me and would argue that no water would ever infiltrate behind his windows...and he is probably right........but I just know that if I did it that way, water would probably infiltrate mine!
Davo
dave... go to a site that details T-1-11the top gets a z-flash..... the sill gets a z-flashwould i use this type of siding ...... nobut, that's how you do itMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Yeah, I spoke to the designer already... He said that's the type of detail left up to the builder...
Window guy also suggested installing flangeless windows with a clip that grasps the window and screws to the framing inside.
At any rate--I think if I framed without nailing across the header for now--then slip flashing up in under casing and OVER window head, might be better than cutting into the siding above the casing for z metal...
I also thought to build each 'pictureframe' casing on the ground, with the rabbet, carry it up and nail it, might be easy.
Thanks,
Pat