I have ran into a problem trying to case out windows. The drywall around the windows is sticking out past the jambs of the windows as much as 5/16″. This is not good! The windows are plumb in the openings. This is creating a huge gap between the window casing and the jambs. The casing will not lay flat on both surfaces at the same time. Is it possible to dado out the area in the casing underneath to provide the clearance necessary so that it will lay flat? I have this problem with at least a dozen or so windows. Iam using Marvin double hung wood windows and casing them with the t-366 trim and rosettes at the top corners. I also have this problem on some round top windows (at the tops). Another problem with this is the exterior is brick so resetting the windows are out of the question. Any help here would be appreciated. Forgot to mention here that this is new construction.
Edited 1/19/2004 4:12:11 PM ET by TerryW
Replies
Ffrom how I read your info- try marking the width of the casing onto the drywall WITHOUT using any reveal. Then flatten the area between the mark and the edge of the window with a hammer to bring it flat in line with the face of the extension. When you place the casing on the window WITH the reveal (I use 3/16") the mark is covered and the face of the casing should be tight with the extension. It may mean that your casing may be skewed slightly (i.e. not on a flat plane) but with a little caution when cutting the miters you can usually make it work. If the drywall is too thick you may end up cutting on the mark you created using the casing and then seriously remove the offending drywall.......However in this drastic case the skew on the casing may require additional work (on the miters) Another solution may be to cut jamb extensions (is the problem consistent across all windows?) and nail them in place so the casing can lay flat on the face of the drywall.
Having reread your post, I think the best possible solution (given corner blocks) is to use the jamb extensions and handplane to fit flush with the drywall Use glue on all surfaces..
It happens all the time in new construction !! Renovation work is free from this type of situation <G>
First we get good- then we get fast !
sounds like a pretty good idea. The problem though isn't consistant all the way around the windows. It varies from nothing to at least 5/16". I have 2x6" walls and the windows came with the extensions already there. What type of extension am I looking for (how far does it stick out) ? Is it something made for a jamb or is it clear stock that I can glue to the existing jamb and then plane it in to fit.
I had some walls that were not plumb and from the top of the door to the bottom it went from to deep to to shallow. Old house settled and new doors installed plumb, Anyway after a lot of work with a electric planer and a hand planner and sometimes even a jointer they all look great. I just took wood away on which ever side of the casing needed it. Little tricky at the top but there are ways to trim out doors that do a great job of hiding those types of flaws. If cut your side casings at a 90 on the top and then run the top casing all the way across with a 1/4 inch thick rounded over trim piece in-between it will mask the differences in plane. There is a good example in one of the Tauton books I think it was called "Graphic Guide to Interior Details" Problem is it only works well with wide casings. But the older homes had them and it matched the details of the existing doors in my house. I actually copied it from doors on the lower floor and then saw it in the book. Other problem is it is time consuming. Or you can always shim and caulk but that does not look good on stained wood.
It may be easier to remove the factory jamb extensions (if they ARE removeable) and scribe new ones to the SR. I do it all the time and it is a LOT easier ( for me). If they are not removeable then I would rip a scribed tapered jamb extension and glue it on, if you use some blue tape and let it clamp where you do not nail it makes a decent job, use brads to nail it up staying to the outside of center, that way when you apply the casing the brads are behind it. I free hand the jamb extensions on a small table saw, but if you are uncomfortable doing that, use a circ saw or jig saw and blockplane..once ya do a few you can do it in yer sleep..
I am helping my daughter build her own house and in the process we have built ourselves into a similar situation. The windows were orderd with 4-9/16 jambs for a 2x4 wall, 1/2" sheathing and drywall. Son-in-law found a deal on 3/4 sheathing and with window opening wrap it leaves the jamb about 5/16 shy of the drywall plane.
The plan now is to mill clear stock 3/4" wide X3/8 thick and glue it to the backside of the casing in rough cut lengths as per window. Edge sand or plane to achieve a finished smoth edge and apply to the jambs. The casing may stand a little proud at the outer edge, but that is easier to mange with caulk and paint than is the open reveal at the window jamb.
Could apply the 3/4x3/8 to the jamb itself...but I prefer to treat the shim as part of the casing as a single piece thus being able to bend and flex together to fit the reveal and miters as needed. This will also result in a uniform size of extension rather than a wedgie 0" to 5/16".
Just a thought..............Iron Helix
I'm going to assume you are using windows that are attatched to the house with either a vinyl or aluminum nailing fin on the exterior. This is the case in most windows used in new construction these days. If this is the case, the solution is simple: First- shim between the rough opening and the window jamb at each of the corners, you will no doubt have to cut some drywall away. Next- run a 2-1/2" or a 3" drywall screw into the jamb, (make sure you keep the screw outside of the 1/4"reveal area) leaving the head about 1/2" out. Then using your hammer or a prybar, hook the screw and pry the window into the room until it is flush with the drywall and nail through the jamb into the framing. Do this on all four corners and on double or triple mulled windows do it at each mullion area. The added benefit of this is the window will now stay in place and won't move in and out with the seasonal changes thus opening up those miters you so painstakingly assembled.
If you didn't understand what I was describing, (I sometimes have a bit of a problem verbalising what I'm trying to say in a concise manner) e-mail me and I will send you something more detailed with a drawing or two.
This is a very common problem. I use Tickeyboy's method (his first paragraph) with one addition: Use some roofing nails to nail the drywall around the windows and pull it tight to the framing. The reason to use roofing nails is that the big head helps pull the sheetrock down, without pulling through like SR screws tend to do.
I'll go with the guy who said smack it with a hammer.
The rosettes will make the job easier for you. Miter angles change slightly (a hair) over 45º when they are beveled onto raised drywall.
Flatten out the drywall where needed with a hammer. This should add no more than 3 minutes to casing a window. Move on to next window.