Hello, Does anyone have a reliable method of adding crown to the tops of window trimwork? I’m working on new construction, I plan to install the andersen units then add 5/4 x 4 at sides and bottom and 5/4 x 8 ripped to allow for solid crown to be installed flush at top leaving 3 1/2 ” reveal to match sides and bottom. Question #1 is what to do at top ? copper or other alum. flashing? or wood on a slant? Question #2 is what detail do I use at the ends where the crown returns to the wall, do i put a small block at each side / do i scribe the clapboards to the crown or the crown to the clapboard? #3 should I use standard crown and install a 1×4 at top. ??? Thanks shotsy
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Looks best when the mitered returns go against the flashed sheathing, the siding is scribed to it. At the head I flash up at least 3" onto sheathing, and on top of level 1x. cap. If you run the 1x out of level you create a gap with returned crown, you have to caulk or trim the top of crown, looks lousy.I fasten the flashing down with either silicon or flashing cement.You don't need much , a few dabs mostly at the front. Hold the flashing down with staples. I use stainless steel staples, their pricey. I used to use regular staples, they'll rust away but the cement holds flashing down. I only bend over the front edge with flashing if it is specified.
Use a pressure treated cap, spray shellac, at least two coats. This will enable you to paint the pt right away, no primer needed. The shellac is a primer too.If you decide to use a non pt wood use cedar,cypress or something that won't rot as easily as pine.
Many times the cap is flashed entirely , no wood showing, except underneath.You can use pine if this is done.Also don't forget to rip a shallow sawcut about 1/2" in from the face for a drip.One sawblade wide 1/8" deep will do.I glue the mitered returns, not necessary at all.I glue them because I believe the glue acts as a sealer on endgrain, just my theory.
mike
mike
Mike, thanks... very informative and helpful. Shotsy
shotsy-
#1- I would use a metal flashing on the top of the crown. Bend the metal over the edges of the crown, and up the wall above the window 3-4". Copper looks better, and will last longer under most conditions, but aluminum is cheaper and holds up prety well, too.
#2- all the trim and flashing should be installed before you start the siding, so you should scribe the siding to the crown.
#3- If you want a larger reveal, use a regular crown. Just use a piece of 1/4 or 3/8 ply to bridge the gap at the top, and proceed as with #1. Using a standard crown is probably the way I would go, as most solid crowns aren't big enough to really look good outside.
Also, I would use a piece of 2x as a subsill,instead of the 5/4x4, with the 1-1/2" edge as the face. I rip a cedar 2x4 in half, and screw it to the bottom of the window, then continue my casings from there.