Recently bought a home in South Louisiana with tons of tall, wood, single pane windows, house was built in 93′.
All of the windows need to be reglazed ASAP, I don’t think there’s a single pane that has a full bead around it, there’s 21 windows with an average 18 lites each.
Is there an alternative to the old school window putty glazing that is a little less labor intensive? Other than that dap latex window glazing which I think is almost worse.
I’ve begun to work on this myself but its getting frustrating, I’m sure there’s gotta be something out there that’s more workable, plus a better cure time than putty.
I have priced out the job and it’s nearly as much to replace them.
Replies
No answer for your specific question, but
I needed to glaze a couple shop windows. Ran out of Dap on a Sunday.
Sherwin Wm’s was open and close.
Their product was absolutely the worst stink’n glazing and that includes adding a little water to old putty and working it for 15 minutes!
Took it back with just a bit missing. Sorry, it’s already open and we can’t refund.
Told them to give it to the manager, no refund…..so what. I think I mentioned that whenever I had a chance I’d report my findings. So, there you have it!
Glazing that’s good isn’t hard to work with and after a couple windows you’ll get in a groove. 1st floor, not a big deal. On a ladder, ugh.
be sure to prime the raw wood before reglazing. unprimed wood draws the oil out of the glazing and it falls out . bet that’s what happened to your windows. oil based primer is best.
be sure to prime the raw wood before reglazing. unprimed wood draws the oil out of the glazing and it falls out . bet that’s what happened to your windows. oil based primer is best.
And don't delay in painting the windows after reglazing. When I did a similar project on my own house many years ago, I removed the sashes so I could work on them on a bench. Just get a piece of 1/2" plywood to fit over the opening and drill a hole for a Carriage bolt that's long enough to go thru the opening to a 1/4 board and bolt it in place. Keeps the critters (all kinds) out.
I haven't done that many windows, but I've found that removing the windows and doing the work on a bench is speedier for me. Good advise.
I've had success with oil based primer to prep the wood. Then I use multi-glaze Type M glazing putty which dries faster--about two days. A stiff putty knife, plus some calcium carbonate for cleaning, a little practice, and you won't need to wait so long for the putty to skim and get painted.
Hi teewhite7,
For a less labor-intensive alternative to traditional window putty glazing, consider the following options:
1. **Silicone Caulk**: It’s easier to apply and provides a durable, weather-resistant seal. Look for one specifically designed for windows and doors.
2. **Glazing Tape**: This is a quicker and cleaner option, providing a solid seal without the mess of putty. It’s also easier to work with and has a faster cure time.
3. **Acrylic Glazing Compound**: This is more user-friendly than traditional putty and has a faster drying time. It’s also paintable, which can be useful for a seamless finish.
These alternatives can save you time and effort while ensuring your windows are properly sealed. Good luck with your project!
Wood stops combined with a little silicon. I’ve built a lot of windows and doors this way.
Possibly my issue was not priming then because I've been cleaning out the old glazing then brushing with linseed and then applying the glaze. But regardless that even furthers my argument about the labor involved lol.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a silicone to use? I'd rather get something designed for this than just off the shelf big box store stuff. I've been looking at tremco and dow stuff, but they each seem to have several different types that honestly seem to say all the same thing to me.
I’d agree with the other poster who recommends oil based primer before glazing compound. It can go pretty fast once you get a rhythm. Work the compound in your hand and make a snake and lay it against the glass and sash then press it in with your fingers, but not too hard so you are below the finished plane of the glazing. Ride your 2” putty knife along the wood sash and use the side of it to trim off any excess glazing. The trick to this is to have a 2 gallon bucket- aka a deuce pot- up on the ladder with you. Put a little water in the bucket and before you drag the knife across give it a dip in the water to lubricate it so it doesn’t pull out the putty. If it does pull a little a 1.5” sash brush dipped in the water bucket can smooth it out. Prime over it with oil primer once dry.
Also I find the glazing in the chalking tube isn’t terrible. It shrinks a bit but it dries in 24 hours as opposed to weeks and is easier to get on than rolling snakes out of the compound.
be careful with silicone, it can’t be painted.
They offer durability and insulation benefits while being lighter and more flexible than glass. Plus, they're often more cost-effective. Worth exploring for energy efficiency and safety.
I don't have any magic tricks. I have never found anything that looks as good as the traditional tub of oil based glazing compound since you can tool it smooth reasonably easily. I could never touch up the Dap in a tube and I didn't get along well with the shape of the nozzle. If I touched it after I gunned it in place it only got worse. Last time around, I used the same premium water based caulk I used for rest of the paint job. I tried my best to gun it out acceptably and retouch it as little as possible. It generally looked ok from a distance but certainly didn't look like it was applied by a craftsperson. I did it only a couple of years ago so I hope I don't regret it in the future. I have had problems with wood rot under caulk, particularly if a good paint seal is not maintained in other joints. I did it in part with the optimism that it would last longer than the traditional glazing. Only time will tell.
I personally would never use silicone caulk. Paint won't stick to it, it is nearly impossible to remove and new silicone probably won't stick to old. This, in addition to looking bad as the paint peels off will also be difficult to seal between to painted wood and silicone glazing not to mention the mess you will have if it fails.
I agree that Silicone is a terrible idea. Any kind of caulk is also a bad idea. The glazing in a caulk tube is only good for "back putty" but I still would only use Glazing Compound. Abatron [www, abatron, com] sells a professional glazing compound that is superior to DAP. They have a faster drying version if you are glazing windows in a shop. Called Dual Glaze and Multi- Glaze
In modern construction, alternatives to traditional window glazing include double or triple-pane windows for better insulation, low-emissivity coatings for energy efficiency, and gas-filled windows for superior thermal performance.
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silicone glazing sealant or butyl rubber glazing tape—both are easier to apply and cure faster than traditional putty. They might not look identical to the old-school method, but they’ll save you time and effort