We are in that part of the design where we are picking windows for the house. All the ceilings are 10 flat ceilings and that will probably continue in the shower area as well. The shower will be about 3’8″ by 6′ and will probably be tiled. There will be an exhaust vent either over the shower, or right in front of the shower.
The wife really wants some natural light in the shower which means a window up high – non opening and on the west end of the house.
I know I will have some heat gain through that west facing window, which can be controlled somewhat by picking the right glass and maybe adding a sun screen.
But, what kind of moisture problems am I going to have with a window over the shower?
Replies
Paul,
Any wood window in a shower is a problem. Vynal window? How about glass block?
Chuck S
live, work, build, ...better with wood
I could never figure out the shower window deal. Look neighbor, I'm naked and taking a shower.
In midwestern ranch homes built from about 1950 to 1970 it was never done any other way. Operable window (with frosted lower sash) in the bath, often directly above the bathtub. Code required it.Re the original question, a lot depends on how often the shower is used. Even conventional wood windows (appropriately protected with oil paint) will withstand regular wetting, so long as they don't get continuously soaked, and so long as the paint is reasonably maintained. It helps a lot if the window can be placed so that water doesn't strike it directly. So wood is manageable for a window in a shower that's used maybe 3x per week, not so manageable if the shower is used 3x per day.Of course, especially with a non-operable window, there are many non-wood options.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
Paul42 is in Texas, what's the mandate in Texas for showering frequency?
I try to make sure that every house I build has a window in every bathroom for the purpose of natural light. Most are either obscured glass or the window is up high. I can't think of anytime I want to be in there in the pitch dark.
Jheeshe - you remind me of my DW. Maybe you are pretty good looking but I'm confident that not many people want to see me naked - so really I'm not worried about someone sneeling a peek :-)
As long as the window stool is right at or above the shower head you shouldn't have a problem, especially if it is a vinyl window.
One other thing - here anyway, there is a building code about windows in a bathing areas. Either they have to be tempered or can't be within 60" of the tub/shower/whatever drain. Your milage may vary.
I ordered a 3 foot wide by 2 foot high window for a customer's shower and the intent was to place it high and horizontal. At the last minute , the owner wanted it vertical. It was a fixed anderson casement with privacy glass (tempered). I reluctantly agreed and to this day I go back to check the caulk and paint situation when doing other work for these people. It requires maintenance. If at all possible , avoid wood, tile the jambs, use a stone one piece sill, and caulk it well. How about a skylight instead? even those have moisture issues in a bathroom.
"it aint the work I mind,
It's the feeling of falling further behind."
Bozini Latini
How about window frame/sash/casing all made from my good fiend Azek?Did I mention I love this stuff?
With a 10' high ceiling over the shower and a high window (depends what your meaning of high window is) probably not much problem because there may not be any direct splashing of water on the window, the volume of the space is high so the steam will rise quickly and with a good CFM exhaust fan, you should have no problem.
One of the houses I did had a bath/window. It was a double hung and I turned it into an awning style. This allowed it to open, give light, and be up high enough to not get too wet.
If you have 10' ceilings it should'nt really be an issue. Put a nice fixed payne up high.
How about a skylight or one of those tube lights? I havent put one in but the ones i've seen out out alot of light and dont take up much ceiling space.
I put a round fixed fiberglass window high enough to look out. Had a fiberglass jam made for it.
I explained to the owner that it needed to be caulked with a silicone caulk every couple of years and so I picked a colored silicone and then painted the jam the same color as the caulk.
HO loved the way it looks kind of like a ship portal.
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
I have a vinyl window with Azek trim and it holds up.
I have two baths both of which have windows in the shower/baths. I replaced the original windows and both entire walls three and a half years ago (there was heavy water damage and rot, to the point the walls were in danger of collapse) with smaller and higher (about 55 inches above the tub floor) Anderson awning (frosted) windows. The interior wall is now tile, hardibacker and a layer of 6 mil plastic. The tile extends right up to the window. The window was painted (white) and silicone (white) applied in any spot that might be a problem. I inspect both setups every six months and so far there is no sign of any damage. I really didn't want any windows in the shower but there is no alternative, for ventilation etc. and the wife though no windows would make the bath too dark.
Ditto what sbds said.
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My neighbor put in an octagon window just like that, it awnings out. Very Nice."it aint the work I mind,
It's the feeling of falling further behind."Bozini Latini
If it were me, I would use an all-Integrity window by Marvin. All the frame and sash parts, inside and out, are pultruded fiberglass.
If tiling inside, I would trim with tile or Corian returns, and seal the joint between my returns and the frame with silicone.
Pultruded fiberglass is used by Andersen for the exterior frames of their Frenchwood hinged patio doors. Didja know that?