Hi
I have several windows with jambs that extend beyond the plastered wall. They run from a slightly below the wall to a 1/4″ beyond the wall. Is there a preferred method to deal with this situation? Can anyone recommend a good article or book that speaks to this question.
Thanks
Al Charbonneau
This 654-sq.-ft. ADU combines vaulted ceilings, reclaimed materials, and efficient design, offering a flexible guest suite and home office above a new garage.
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Replies
It's been discussed here many times............
But I don't have the nerve to suggest you try the search function.
When posed with the problem I've dealt with it a couple ways.
Plane down the high spots, add jamb extension where applicable (in your case, minimal distance short of the wall surface-might be able to fudge it, trim away some sheetrock (plaster?), caulk and paint the low spots.
Have belt sanded with a smaller belt sander to take down the high spots-stay away from the wall surface.................big dust problem. Need care in the corners too.
Best of luck.
How odd! Another suggestion: use a hand power plane to get the high spots; seems to me pretty easy. Use casing that has the recess in the middle (can't recall what it is called) to accomodate some variations ... it may accomodate your low spots ... after all, that is part of why they make trim/casing that way in the first place.
Clewless reminded me of another.........
I sometimes will stand the triim up and run it on the table saw to cut out the back (making it thinner except for what hits the jamb) . Now, this is not highly recommended unless you know the saw and it's limitations. If the face is profiled, you need to add a wood fence extension (pad out the fence) so you can run that blade right up against the fence and use the back of the casing run on the fence.
Other option-plane the back of the casing to within a 1/2 inch of the edge that sits on the jamb.
Both of these allow the trim to touch the jamb that is shallow to the wall.
I hate to promote the bastardization of power tools not knowing who will try something that they really shouldn't do. So take caution, keep body parts clear and use your head.
If you're at all unsure-don't do it.
Started a thread on this topic after my experience in Cedar Rapids in Feb. Lots of windows with the jambs proud by up to about 1/2". Asked for suggestions for "next time" -- something better than hacking the jambs down with a Sawzall.
After a few times around the track someone came up with the idea of building a sort of jig to fit over the jamb edge and then using a router with a large mortising bit to eat away the excess. Seems like it would work pretty well.
Dan
I've given thought to just that idea-but never was confronted with jambs so bad off and uneven.......(when real proud-say when you remove plaster and don't shim studs prior to drywall). Would you pad out half the rounter so you could run on the wall surface with that, while keeping the bit registers lower?
Yeah, you'd make a jig with a flat surface to run on the drywall and a notch to take the proudest jamb. And have a "hook" on one end to keep it lined up horizontally with the jamb. The router attaches to the jig over the notch, and the mortise bit is adjusted so it would just touch the wall surface if the jamb weren't there.
You might want to have the jig arranged so that the router could be slid left/right a little to allow the cut to be done in 2-3 passes without having to raise/lower the bit.
jamb/wall mismatch
Dan
I have a few routers that I leave setup for various issues. One of those issues is the jambs of doors/windows standing out too far for trim.
I wish I had a pic. My setup looks like a short version of a swing arm for cutting circles with a router. It's about 8" long, and the end that's attached to the router (baseplate removed first) is positioned to allow most of a 1" double flute straight bit to be exposed. Depth is matched to the bottom face of the plywood part. I just run this around an opening, and the jamb is indexed perfectly to the wall.
This didn't used to be the problem that it is now. The current use of flexible nailing fins with heavy windows allows the units to be placed too deep into the opening, and no one sees this until after the drywall goes on.
Sometimes, if the windows are not overly heavy, you can use a block of wood and hammer and knock them back flush to the wall, or draw them back with long finish nails. I try this first, then the router. I don't care much for the look of tapered jambs.
Dave
Yeah, your rig sounds roughly like what I was attempting to describe. You could make it simple or fancy, I'd guess.
Might be a good excuse to buy one of these:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=61963&cat=1,41182,48942
I've got one and it's a sweet machine IMO.
(I have nothing to do with LV.)