FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Window Jambs

| Posted in General Discussion on February 5, 2001 02:58am

*
Hello
I would like to rip out my painted woog jambs and stool in my living room window. I would like to put oak jambs and trim instead
How do i install the oak without the nail holes showing? I want to stain the oak .

Second question: Norm Abrams said on a show that he puts a three degree
bevel in his window jambs so when you attach the window trim you do not see the gap. Can anyone claify this?
thanks to all
Robert

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. andy_clifford | Feb 02, 2001 01:15am | #1

    *
    ~~~CLIFFORD RENOVATIONS L.I~~ N.Y~~~
    If your really that particular about zero nail holes showing of a finish nail then try toenailing from the edge that the trim will cover after drlling a pilot hole orrrrrr nail in the dark part of the grain and fill the nail hole with dark wood filler or use a furnature touch up kit to paint the hole filler the exact color of the wood....As for Norms bevel cut...sheeshh...gettin carried away arent we??? Seems like more for TV then in the REAL WORLD....but if your that anal go for it....

    1. robert_trebor | Feb 02, 2001 01:23am | #2

      *Thanks Andy.I am not that anal. I'm just trying to see if I ammissing something. Norm does get a little overzealous " There, a 1/32 over, not bad."I wonder if he works to tolerances that close for his clients. Rob

      1. andy_clifford | Feb 02, 2001 01:28am | #3

        *Put me on TV and I'll show off too....lol

        1. Ryan_C | Feb 02, 2001 01:31am | #4

          *Nail and filler. Never see it from 5 feet away.I heard him talk about that bevel too. The idea, I guess, was that the edge of the casing would be sure to fit tight against the jamb if the jamb was cut back at an angle. Silly.

          1. Jeff_J._Buck | Feb 02, 2001 01:59am | #5

            *The back cut is how I was taught to make jambs. 2 or 3 degrees is all ya need. Think of it exaggerated, with the pointed edge on the inside. Make them a hair long. Now, when the edge of the trim, hits the edge of the extension jamb, if it doesn't contect at exactly a 90 degree angle, it'll still be making contact at some point.....along the point. If ya run the extension jamb a hair long, the trim will be seated on the outside edge, it will surely contact the extension jamb, and all that will happen is it's a hair off the wall right as it touches the jamb....but that's all hidden. And just putty the nail heads. Play with the putty color and stain color before hand if it's gonna bother you. Then have someone else try to find the holes w/o telling them where to look! Jeff

          2. JRS | Feb 02, 2001 02:04am | #6

            *T'aint silly at all. My door supplier's SOP is beveled jambs. Believe it or not , it's normal practice by custom trim carpenters.(the one's who have been around a while in any case)a bevelin' fool, John

          3. Jeff_J._Buck | Feb 02, 2001 02:13am | #7

            *you callin' me normal??? Jeff

          4. Joseph_Fusco | Feb 02, 2001 02:16am | #8

            *John,

            I had to bite my tongue not to give a reply to that statement. For 15 years I've been putting a 3° bevel on my window and door jambs. . .So I'm glad you did.

            View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

          5. Adrian_Wilson | Feb 02, 2001 02:25am | #9

            *As far as hiding the nail heads go, Lee Valley Tools makes a little thing....a chisel in a holder( I think it's called a blind nailer). You slide it along, it digs in and turns up a sliver...you nail under the sliver, then glue the sliver back down. I don't have one, but it seems like a neat idea, supposed to be traditional.

          6. WOOD_TICK | Feb 02, 2001 02:38am | #10

            *......beveled egde???? That would be applicable to "picture framing" the jambs, not butt jointing them, correct??? I don't see anything but problems and added headache. But, maybe I'm blind.

          7. Jeff_J._Buck | Feb 02, 2001 02:42am | #11

            *blind! you bevel the ....uh...lets call it ...the outside/exposed edge. The 3/4 edge that's not butting the window. The only edge where the trim can touch. Yer thinking beveled ENDS. Jeff

          8. jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Feb 02, 2001 03:17am | #12

            *I like to bevel the other side of the jamb extensions, the side that butts against the window - back edge of the sill too.

          9. WOOD_TICK | Feb 02, 2001 03:18am | #13

            *Jeff- The way I see it is if you were to bevel 3 degrees off the interior edge(where casing is applied) than connect the two pieces via butt joint, you would have an exposed face grain(minute as it may be) at the joint...and you gain what from this???

          10. JRS | Feb 02, 2001 03:19am | #14

            *Jeff,Normal? Did I imply you were merely normal? Why, you're a cut above. Yeah, that's the ticket.Joe, Speaking of normal, just how often do you bite your tongue? Hope you didn't draw blood.Cheers,John

          11. RichMast_ | Feb 02, 2001 03:23am | #15

            *robert, ditto the bevel. just set your table saw bevel to 2 or 3 degrees when you rip the jambs. the longer (wider) side faces the inside of the opening. i also bevel the ends of casings where they butt into corner blocks, stool, etc. just about anywhere you want a really tight line between two surfaces (learned this by lots of years working on old houses). usually 1 or 2 degrees at most. to fill in the nail holes, go to a good paint store and pick up a few shades of Color Putty filler. you can mix them together to get a very close match to the wood. andy's comment on nailing in the dark lines sometimes works with oak that has pronounced grain, but i usually find the "lines" aren't always wide enough, so you still need some light filler. i have seen the tool adrian mentioned in catalogs forever, but have never tried it. it seems like too much time for me. hope this helps. rich.

          12. jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Feb 02, 2001 03:44am | #16

            *Yeah, get some white Color Putty to mix with and lighten your Color putty to match various tones in your wood. Sometimes I'll mix a vein of "Pine Cone" (almost black) in to simulate a little grain too. That Color Putty is great stuff, with a little care, you can mix it so it's virtually invisible.

          13. calvin_ | Feb 02, 2001 01:04pm | #17

            *Jim, you got the tip to keep it workable or to soften it after it dries out? There must be some solvent that works. Or is there some chemical in the jar that leaves after you open it and keeps us buying more?

          14. Ryan_C | Feb 02, 2001 02:15pm | #18

            *I have never had a problem with the casings fitting tightly against the jambs when the jambs were square. This sounds like something alot of you do (or at least think would be a good idea) but it seems like overkill to me.

          15. Ryan_C | Feb 02, 2001 02:16pm | #19

            *doesn't that make the extansion jambs tend to lean to the outside of the window?

          16. HomeBldr_ | Feb 02, 2001 03:38pm | #20

            *I bevel my extension jambs that are site built also.As Jim says he likes to bevel the edge that butts to the window, I do also. Since the saw is set at a bevel for that edge anyway, I bevel the casing side as well. I usually use a 2-3 degree bevel. Steven

          17. jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Feb 02, 2001 05:12pm | #21

            *No, I shim the wrap perpendicular to the window. The bevel assures the edge that shows touches the window first, and makes a very tight joint. I use a similar technique on base for wood floors too.

          18. jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Feb 02, 2001 05:17pm | #22

            *Baby oil works good Cal, as long as the putty hasn't completely dried out. I notice as I work a little in my hands, mixing, or even just warming it up, it gets softer too. I think it's from the oil on my skin.

          19. Phill_Giles | Feb 02, 2001 05:36pm | #23

            *I have one of those, you can do just as good a job by hand with a 1/4" chissel; the trick is to run it with the grain. In a couple of high-end houses with "natural finish" jambs, I saw where the window installers run big fastners through the sash channels and use epoxy to hold the rest of the sash to the wedges (they just dollup a generous portion over the wedges so that lots gets on the jamb and the rough-in and it locks it in really well).

          20. Qtrmeg_ | Feb 02, 2001 07:31pm | #24

            *Calvin, the correct reducer for the putty is linseed oil. I usually find that those colored putties are too loose and have to add a powder to them to firm them up a bit. I believe one product is called Bix Stain Putty, (designed to mix with your stain to make a putty), and another is Whitening, (or something), available from real paint suppliers.Now, if you want to get real, buy glazing & tubes of universal tinting colors and mix your own colors. Set up a little kit with the color tubes, oil and powder. Add your other touch-up devices and you are ready to fill and fix it all. Now you have the ability to mix any color, and can play with a general mix to go light and dark to match the odd color variation. The basic colors you will need are raw umber, burnt umber, burnt sienna, medium yellow, venetian red, thalo blue, white, black. Now I know we all know that you only fill with these products after a complete sealing &sanding of the wood & you all understand the importance of removeing any residue, so I won't bore you.To get back to the topic of this thread, you have a 3/4 extention, explain what is so hard about concealing the fasteners of the jamb when the casing reveal is 1/4". I must be missing something.

          21. robert_trebor | Feb 03, 2001 02:50am | #25

            *Wow! Thanks for all the advice guys.I guess Norm Abrams is a "Master Carpenter".By the way, how do you become a "Master Carpenter";is it a test like "Master Plumber"?All the bestRob

          22. blue_eyed_devil_ | Feb 03, 2001 03:35am | #26

            *It's interesting to note that the interior door jambs come beveled. Most exterior door jambs also come beveled, but windows do not.You either bevel, booger, or hope that the surfaces are perfectly level. Beveling just invreases your odds of getting a nice fit, without fighting it. It's cheap insurance.bluePs if you are really anal, you only bevel the part of the edge of the jamb that is buried beneath the casing.

          23. Dave_Richeson | Feb 03, 2001 06:51am | #27

            *Calvin, linseed oil will soften the color fill putty, but I usually don't have it on a job when I open that jar that sat for six months. Mineral spirits kneeded in will also soften it enough to work. I have recently tried adding a small rag soaked in linseed oil to the top of several jars sitting in my shop.remind me to check them in three months and I'll let you know if it works.Dave

          24. Jeff_J._Buck | Feb 03, 2001 09:41am | #28

            *"cut above"....why now yer just fighting dirty! You sure yer the real JRS? Jeff

          25. Jeff_J._Buck | Feb 03, 2001 09:43am | #29

            *Have you really done the trick with the chisel? I've been tempted to try the little nail hider tool. How'd the chisel trick work? Jeff

          26. Jeff_J._Buck | Feb 03, 2001 09:48am | #30

            *Same test, but less Plumbing! Jeff

          27. Peter_Smedley | Feb 03, 2001 08:17pm | #31

            *I bought one of those Lee Valley blind nailers years ago - it didn't do much for me. Some times I fasten jamb extensions with long countersunk screws right through the 3/4" edge into the window jamb. I always bevel back the edges of my jamb extensions - like the Blue eyed fellow says - it helps to iron out any irregularities in the wall.

          28. Phill_Giles | Feb 03, 2001 08:32pm | #32

            *It works "okay"; better in soft woods than in Oak. I discovered after the fact that gluing the little shaving back down affects staining as the glue soaks back up from underneath. You also have to be really, really careful about nailing into the divot without damaging the shaving. But in clear pine, it's almost invisible.

          29. tom_herman | Feb 04, 2001 06:35pm | #33

            *The newest (march 2001) issue of FHB has an article on trimming windows.The author bevels the *inside* edge of the jam extensions, to ensure a tight fit to the window.He also tapers the width of the jamb extension, if needed, to ensure a tight fit to the window, and to ensure the jamb is flush to the drywall finish surface. What some might consider "anal", I call "high quality craftsmanship".

          30. calvin_ | Feb 05, 2001 02:53am | #34

            *Thank you, and I guess I should use the unscented kind so I don't end up smelling like a french whore. Zippo fluid didn't really cut it. Thanks.

          31. calvin_ | Feb 05, 2001 02:58am | #35

            *Whoa, an inadvertent high complement to Jimbo.

          32. Bookcrazy | Nov 23, 2007 09:55pm | #37

            How did the linseed oil work out ?

  2. robert_trebor | Feb 05, 2001 02:58am | #36

    *
    Hello
    I would like to rip out my painted woog jambs and stool in my living room window. I would like to put oak jambs and trim instead
    How do i install the oak without the nail holes showing? I want to stain the oak .

    Second question: Norm Abrams said on a show that he puts a three degree
    bevel in his window jambs so when you attach the window trim you do not see the gap. Can anyone claify this?
    thanks to all
    Robert

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Mortar for Old Masonry

Old masonry may look tough, but the wrong mortar can destroy it—here's how to choose the right mix for lasting repairs.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • Guest Suite With a Garden House
  • Podcast Episode 688: Obstructed Ridge Vent, Buying Fixer-Uppers, and Flashing Ledgers
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Finding the Right Fixer-Upper
  • Keeping It Cottage-Sized

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data