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Discussion Forum

Window jambs proud of new drywall

MichaelNYC | Posted in General Discussion on March 27, 2006 03:49am

Newbie question:

I replaced all of the sheetrock in my dining room with new 1/2″ rock and realized (too late) that they must have used a thicker rock before and now all of the window jambs (is that what they’re called?) are about 1/4″ proud of the new drywall. (I had ripped off all the existing window trim before installing the sheetrock.)

I’m planning on casing the windows in simple 1×4 poplar with butt joints for a Craftsman look (they will be painted). I’m thinking I either have to 1) plane down the jambs until they are flush with the drywall so that the trim will sit flat, or 2) put additional material under the outside edge of the casing to bring it up flush with the edge of the jamb so the trim lays flat.

I’m planning on wallpapering the room so I’d like to have as sharp an edge as possible where the casing meets the drywall.

Any advice would be appreciated since I’m kind of learning as I go…
Thanks,

Michael

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Replies

  1. User avater
    Soultrain | Mar 27, 2006 04:04pm | #1

    What about routing a 1/4" rabbet in the trim before applying it to the window?

  2. philarenewal | Mar 27, 2006 04:06pm | #2

    Hey Michael, a small, low angle block plane will make short work of the jambs.

    Gary Katz made a video showing how to run interior trim.  Well worth the $.  I think it was either from Taunton or JLC.

     

    "A job well done is its own reward.  Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"

  3. User avater
    user-14544 | Mar 27, 2006 04:21pm | #3

    I'd personally rip and add the additional 1/4" to my trim...especially since it's being painted.  That way if the wall is bowed or wavy, it is easier to scribe and sand the trim to fit to the wall.  It is a lot easier time wise and labor wise.  You'd only need to rip 1/4" (or maybe a bit thicker)from a 1x and that would be plenty...

    good luck...and welcome to breaktime! 

    knowledge without experience is just information.... Mark Twain

    http://www.cobrajem.com

  4. johnnysawzall | Mar 27, 2006 06:05pm | #4

    I'm with Charlie on this... rip down some stock to thje thickness you need and attach it to the trim (brads,glue) keep it tight to the outside edge and after test-fitting it , paint it before you install. Just remember to wall paper first.

    1. MichaelNYC | Mar 27, 2006 06:44pm | #5

      Wallpaper first? I was afraid that if I did that that I might have a greater chance of ruining the paper while installing the window casings. Is applying the paper first standard practice?I'm asking because the paper we're hanging is very expensive and I'm nervous about doing all that work around the windows while the paper is up.Thanks,Michael

      1. DoRight | Mar 27, 2006 07:12pm | #6

        FOr me, there is no reason to wall paper first.  I can make very clean cuts of the paper right up to the trim.  NO problem.  If you wallpaper first and ever want to change the paper you will have a mess.  Doable, but a pain.  Just my two cents.

      2. johnnysawzall | Mar 27, 2006 08:10pm | #7

        If you paper first:

        1) The trim helps hold the paper from ever curling back.

        2) You have a margin of error around your doors and windows that will be covered.

        3) Its easier and faster then cutting around the trim (*if your not  accustomed to doing wall paper).

        4) If and I say again If you mess up that cut around the window will you take it down and start again or look at it every time you look out the window.

        5) Imo paper looks better running behind trim rather then up to it. (see 3*)

        Good luck

        1. DonK | Mar 27, 2006 09:15pm | #8

          I'm with the guys that say paper first. I just finished a room last week, and cutting to go around the sills, casing and the returns on the aprons drove me nuts. If you are nervous about working over the paper, cut all your casing first and have it all ready to go. That way, you can hammer and bang to your heart's delight, maybe even finish it before it's nailed up. Then put up your paper, nail up the casing and you're done.

          As far as the projecting jambs, I've done it both ways - cut them down or build out the casing. And yes, you could even rout out the inside edge of the casing. I think it's better to cut the jambs back, but probably easier to build the casing out. Building it out gives a little more of a shadow line too for design purposes. One question is, "how flat are the walls?" That extra overhang may be necessary if the walls are wavy or out of plumb.

          Good luck, and let's see some pictures.

          Don K.

          EJG  Homes      Renovations - New Construction - Rentals

          1. rfarnham | Mar 27, 2006 09:38pm | #9

            One thing to consider if you are going to build it up is how will you attach the strips? Someone suggested brads and glue, but if you have to scribe the trim around less than flat walls, remember that you won't be able to use your block plane to fine tune the trim. I suppose you could really bury the brads and try your luck, but I wouldn't want to hit a brad with my plane. The belt sander would probably be the way to go.

  5. FHB Editor
    JFink | Mar 27, 2006 10:42pm | #10

    If you haven't replaced the window jambs yet, it seems to make more sense to just trim them down on the saw before replacing them. Why install a piece that's too big, then shim out the trim so that it fits the too-big piece? Just cut the piece to begin with, it's less work.

    Then again, if the jambs are already in place...I would just flush them up to the drywall with an electric planer. I don't trust the idea of gluing 1/4" filler strips underneath the trim. Who knows when that glue will fail.

    Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

  6. blue_eyed_devil | Mar 27, 2006 11:23pm | #11

    You have several choices so far Michael.

    I'm seconding the rabbetting nomination rather than adding a 1/4" filler. If you are proficient at planing, that would be your fastest option.

    The reason I would rabbet rather than fill is because if I'm going to have to make a sawcut, I might as well set up a simple setup on a table saw and make a 1/4" rabbet.

    blue

     

    1. MichaelNYC | Mar 27, 2006 11:29pm | #12

      All of this advice is incredibly helpful. Sadly, I do not yet own a table saw - only a mitre saw. So I think I'm going to plane the jambs down and go that route. I'll let you know how it goes...Thanks again,Michael

      1. blue_eyed_devil | Mar 28, 2006 12:09am | #13

        Mickael, The Old Yankee carpenter (Roy Underhill) would create that rabbet using one of his old wooden rabbet planes in about 30 seconds apiece....and that would be on one of his slow days!

        Planing will be a good choice too. Good luck and tell us how it all turned out.

        blue

         

        Edited 3/27/2006 5:13 pm ET by blueeyeddevil

      2. blue_eyed_devil | Mar 28, 2006 12:13am | #14

        Oops, I almost forgot to mention something Michael.

        When you plane the jambs down, don't take it all the way flush with the drywall. The drywall will ruin the blade. Leave it proud 1/16 or even an 1/8", or if you're anal 1/32".

        Personally, I'd leave it proud 1/8" and figure on caulking that gap anyways.

        Of course, your idea of papering first might alter that idea.

        blue 

        1. Lansdown | Mar 28, 2006 12:28am | #16

          Ditto what Blue said, but I would suggest you plane a slight bevel towards the wall. This way the trim will fit tight at the window edge of the jamb. Just did several windows this weekend like that.

      3. BryanSayer | Mar 28, 2006 12:16am | #15

        Be sure you check the window jambs for nails before you plane.Or, I could send you my plane where I didn't set the nails far enough...

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