There are water stains showing up at the bottom two corners of a window in our entryway in the area where the sill, the wall and the window frame come together. There is no condensation or moisture showing up between the panes of glass and no indication of moisture anywhere else near the window. The frame looks dry as well. The water stains showed up this summer after several very heavy rains. As far as I can tell it was fine with no leaks for the past five years.
The house was built in 2016, the window is the original new construction windows. It is a Ply Gem 1500 series vinyl window. The window in question is fixed and is actually made up of two windows joined together one on top of the other. Can anyone help me figure out what might be going on here or how to figure it out?
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Post a couple pictures. One so we can see the whole wall and then some closer shots of the problem areas.
Thanks.
Here are some pictures, the first is the outside with arrows pointing to where the water stains are showing up (on the inside). The second and third is the inside corner were the water stain is (on one side). I will have to get a pic of the entire inside wall.
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Better 3rd pic:
Ok so I borrowed a moisture meter and an IR camera. I ran the moisture meter all over that area and it didn’t really alert on anything. The water stains themselves now seem dry, but we haven’t had the same volume of rain that we did a couple months ago when this first happened. How accurate are moisture meters in detecting moisture on the back of drywall or wood(?) like in this window area/sill? Seems odd that the moisture would just be in that spot, unless it leaked from the bottom corner area into the sill area. Gravity and all…
The IR images weren’t that helpful to me because the area around the entire window frame showed dark, as did the corners near the ceiling on the outside walls. These aren’t that different from pictures of windows I know aren’t leaking and corners/joints. I guess those areas are just prone to drafts?
I mentioned the meter and mileage can surely vary.
A heat/cold detector will pick up solid framing which you probably have in the window areas, dbl plates and often individual studs.
I don’t envy your search and as to how they were installed?
Yeah it picks up the edge of the wall next to the window but also does that on other windows and wall areas. My guess is that it’s alerting on a denser material than drywall because it’s clearly not wet consistently in all of those areas.
I don’t know how they were originally installed. I need to get more information. There is more than one similar window arrangement in the building and those aren’t leaking so it *seems* not to be a systemic install issue, but I guess I don’t really know.
That looks like a typical window leak. The only way to fix it is to remove the window, put it in a sill pan, and flash the frame with a liquid flashing or self-sealing flashing tape. Trying to fix that any other way will guarantee failure of the window and eventually the framing under the window.
Do you suspect that the window didn't have flashing or a sill pan to begin with? Or that the stuff that was originally installed failed? Do you think the window can be re-installed after fixing the flashing or would it have to also be replaced?
One contractor told me I should try caulking the windows, but I'm not sure what that would accomplish or how long it would last even if it did help.
When windows are stacked like that you run the risk of fixing the wrong part, i.e. not the source of entry. The water comes in higher than where it shows up inside. Could be coming in at the sides or top of the lower sash……or at any point above.
You might be able to find the source by removing the lower interior trim and working your way up. Look for wet fiberglass if they stuffed that in between the window frame and the framing. If foamed in, less likely you’ll be able to find it.
I have used a wood moisture meter to “measure” the difference in Sheetrock. Ideally you have one with long probes meant for this type of material. I did not but was able to gauge changes in readings on a basement remodel.
On patio doors with a problem I’ve started at the bottom and ran water from a hose starting at the bottom and slowly working my way up. You have to go slow as the water will not be quick about appearing.
Those walls look thick, how is it framed?
Caulking is a last resort that rarely fixes the problem or lasts. Yes, I suspect you don't have pans under your windows because the water couldn't get inside pans were present. A good carpenter could remove them, install flashing and re-install them without much trouble.
Calvin is correct about starting at the bottom first. Remove the bottom inside casing and see if there is a pan or any kind of flashing before you do anything else.
Flo,
Upon closer inspection no casing, deep drywall returns. Nice clean no mitre trim out. Ugh, not an easy inspection.
I agree but drywall is the easiest fix that I can see. Pulling the stool up would be my next choice.