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I’m about to install finish trim on my windows and they will be stained. For the aprons I will cut a 45* mitre and create “returns” into the wall.
What do you do with the stool ends? If I cut a 45* return on the end, the top surface will show the mitre cut. With staining, I don’t think that will look very good. Is there another way to detail the ends? If I just leave the ends cut at 90*, or even an angle the stain will look bad on the edges, won’t it?
TIA
Phil
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
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Replies
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PP, aprons are miter-returned more for the profile it gives than for the end-grain stain issue, in my opinion. Stool caps can just be cut square, with the ends bullnosed or rounded over if they need to be to match the front edge.
You can apply some glue sizing to the end grain to reduce stain absorption if you want.
*We 45 the stools.It doesn't look THAT bad. You 45 the casing don't you? I wouldn't consider cutting it 90.Looks a ton better than end grain.Ed.
*Mike , Ed Thanks for the replies. Ed makes a good point - I did 45 the casings. It WILL look better than the end grain. What proportions do you use, for how much further than the casings should the stool horns extend? Should the apron be the same length as the top horizontal casing?Thanks againPhil
*Ed and Phil, I've never 45'ed stools and never seen it done, but I kind of like the idea. One more way to stand out. For proportions, what looks good to me and what was common 100 years ago is to use the same reveal in front of the casing as beyond the casing. Often 3/4" to 1" in each direction. You can overhang the head casing the same amount or treat it entirely differently, with rosettes, miters, or cornice molding.
*Usually I like to make to stool go past the casing the same distance that it extends out from the face.So if you miter your stool the joint line hits the corner of the casing.Personally if the stool and apron have routable profile I will do that instead of mitering. Every piece of wood that ever been cut has end grain on two ends. It seems to be alot of work just to cover up something that some arcytect decided wasn't desirable.To me end grain and the subtle transition from edge grain on a rounded corner is one of the more beautifuldetails of natural woodwork that should be shown off, not hidden with an extra glue joint.JMHO Mr. T.
*PP,
View Image
*We use the equal method also.However much stool sticks out past the face of the casing at it's thickest point, this is how much it should stick out at the side. There are exceptions to this rule depending on the casing profiles and if you get an apron or not.Of course the apron lines up with the casing above.That's the way I learned from the old ones.Ed.
*I didn't know there were so many rules. The old ones I learned from just kind of showed me how things needed to look proportional and clean and tight. Never seen a 45 on a stool end, but I'll start looking around.
*We return the stool and the apron. But I'll disagree with Joe. Many of my architectural casings are 15/16" If I went twice that distance, the horns would extend nearly 2" to the side and look awful. Depending on the detail of the stool edge, we go 3/4" to 1" front and beyond equally. Once you see well fit returns, you'll never go back to anything else!
*Pif,
View Image"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*An apron return is one thing 'cause the apron is protected by the stool. the stool itself can be a high impact area with furniture bumping it and kids toys etc. I would question ultimately how durable a mitered return on a stool is gonna be.And years down the road if that miter opens up just a smidge it is gonna be snagging the drapes etc.Btw, who decided that end grain is so hideous that it must be hidden at all costs?
*Been mitring aprons and stools for years. Nary a one been knocked off. Good ole carpenters yellow glue. Make it real tight so that the pressure holds the tiny piece in place while the glue sets up.
*Well this topic has gotten busy! Everytime I come back I change my mind. In the past I've always had painted casings & stools. Maybe now with the stain trim I'll make the left side mitred and the right side to match the front edge (j/k). Actually I could make both types and see which I (and the wife) like better.Thanks everyone for your input.Phil
*Pif,
View Image"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle
*OK Joe, I misunderstood the verbiage. Good drawing.and glue holds it good. I trim pout all the stools in the house with the 45 and then cut a bucket ful of returns left and right, then run around the house gluing in with blue painters tape to hold snug though the pressure fit to the wall holds most 'til the glue sets.
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I'm about to install finish trim on my windows and they will be stained. For the aprons I will cut a 45* mitre and create "returns" into the wall.
What do you do with the stool ends? If I cut a 45* return on the end, the top surface will show the mitre cut. With staining, I don't think that will look very good. Is there another way to detail the ends? If I just leave the ends cut at 90*, or even an angle the stain will look bad on the edges, won't it?
TIA
Phil